Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 03, 2000 05:30am | #1

   *
   I've seen Durabond used as a 1/8" thincoat over blue board/green board for that "plaster finish".

1. 
   Guest_ | May 06, 2000 06:19am | #2

   *Yeah, I've wondered about this.Plus 3 is supposed to be OK everywhere. Topping is for topping, wqeak but easy to feather and sand. All-purpose is, well, duh. Taping is for taping, strong but hard to sand. Durabond, a (fast) setting compound, is also for taping. Easysand is Durabond's counterpart for topping. Etc. It's a trade-off between strength and workability and setting time.Tip: don't try to sand Durabond. Or wash it down the sink.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 06, 2000 12:52pm | #3

   *It's been splained to me that the all purp contains more adhesive than topping producing a better bond. Durabond sets quicker and dries hard. Used on cornerbeads and L-beads. Not sandable. Lightwt bagmix sets like durabond but is sandable. These 2 bag mixes shrink less. So they say if you want all those diff. things around, buy 'em all and use according to suggestions and directions. Use of the bag mixes allow more coats quicker. Once you use them all, you'll get your own preferences. They all work a little different. You be the judge.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 07, 2000 04:11am | #4

   *Chris,You are correct in the fact that all purpose or lightweight mud can be used to bond tape to the rock but topping can not. Topping is a creamier color than all purp and is designed to sand out easier and feather to a finer edge for the very top coat. It is also a softer finished product and dings a little easier than regular mud. I don't use it because it's one more thing to have to lug around and lately I've been selectively thinning out things in my trailer that I rarely or hardly ever use.

1. 
   Guest_ | May 07, 2000 06:03am | #5

   *I have always seemed to have the best luck with the "regular" mud, the stuff with the green lid. Durabond is great for patching and first-coating, but one thing that we have noticed about the "topping" compound is that since it is softer, it tends to leave irregularities where it overlaps the other compound. What I mean is that when you sand it, it sands faster than the other compound next to it or under it, so it leaves a bump where the two overlap. Or maybe I'm just being a little to picky.

2. 
   Guest_ | May 07, 2000 06:08pm | #7

   *When bonding joints between old plaster and new sheetrock I start with durabond. I never use it for more than one coat. It sticks to anything and like others have stated does not sand or scrape well. I topcoat joints and screws with easysand, setting types. For final coats when in down to the final thin feathering I'll switch over to an easysand premix. No minute lumps.

2. 
   chris_philips | May 07, 2000 06:08pm | #6

   *
   Joint compound is for use on cornerbead, tapping corners and joints right?! Or is topping to be used to cover everything?? I thought topping was used for the stimpling of ceilings and closet texturing and use plus 3, ready mix every where else who knows the real scam.....