First time posting a question. I am a homeowner but have done many carpentry projects over the years.
I have several Anderson window cranks that do not operate the window. I bought new cranks thinking the “teeth” inside were stripped. This didn’t fix the problem.
When the crank is turned it lifts the turning mechanism and eventually breaks the plastic covering. The turning mechanism should not rise out of the crank base. Is there something that has broken in the base and will I have to get the entire mechanism as a fix or is there something else I can try. The windows are about 20 years old.
The area is The North shore of Long Island, New York. I have many of these windows so I will probably need to fix more as the years go by.
Thanks
Replies
It has been a while since I looked that closing at one of the operators. These weren't Andersen, but I suspect that they are similar.
The handle operated a shaft with a worm gear. There is bushing that keeps the shaft from moving in an out. That bushing is pushed in place and if it comes out there the shaft comes out as you turn the crank.
I had a client with 2 of them. Told them didn't know if it would work, but I tried epoxing them back. 3 months later one still worked and the other failed.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Maybe call Anderson up ... ask their techie ... they should be happy to help ... they have a good reputation ... they should be happy to help.
The window sash may be bound up and you are forcing the opening mechanism trying to free it.
or
something is amiss in the mechanism itself or it has come dislodged from the frame.
I'm sure you can find a schematic on Andersens site that will show you how it works and it's assembly. Replacement of the whole shebang is easy. Getting the wooden trim cover that sits above it is not. If painted, cut the paint line with a sharp utility knife, might do the same if stained to score the finish. Using a stiff putty knife, then two THIN flat bars (see Red Devil) work the wood trim cover straight UP along it's length. Work slowly so you don't split it.
If no one has added nails the usually 2 factory installed fasteners won't hold it down and it'll work it's way up.
Sizing from andersen goes according to the width of the visible glass on the sash. Blaine Hardware (online) is a good source for replacement parts also.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I just replaced the hardware on a bunch of anderson casements that were installed approx. 20 years ago. The windows became difficult to open and the added force required to open them caused the hardware to fail. We installed the new cranking mechanism's, cleaned the hinges and the tracks that thr arms slide in and lubricated them with white lithium grease and they worked smoothly like the were made to.
Fred,
About 20 years ago I designed and provided materials and windows for a wood framed office building. The windows were Andersen 24"x72' casements (24 units). The design called for the fenestration line to be set to a perimeter frieze board. The work was done by a local, well known and respected contractor.
About 18 months after completion the owner called me out to look at a "window problem" much as you have described. The two operator replacemnts were secured and installed at no charge.
Six months later another call back on the same two windows plus three more with blown internals at the operator and difficulty with releasing to open and pulling shut enough for the lever to be latched.
The Andersen Rep was called in and his first question was about "how the windows were installed"? The contractor was not available that day to answer to the specifics of the install, so the Rep asked me to pull the casing off the bottom of the first two windows that had been recently repaired.
The Rep quickly pointed out the problem....the contractor's workmen had set the windows hard to the header to make the fenestration/frieze line consistent and then nailed the flanges, but did not put any shims at the bottom plate of the rough opening.
The weight of the sash on the operator side had caused the window frame to be skewed slightly out of square enough to cause the swing side of the sash to slightly hang. The occupants of the building had to crank hard to open and close almost all of the windows as opposed to the relative ease with which they should crank.
The added strain was causing the crank screw to be pulled out of it's socket of cast pot metal and thus failing.
The fix for 24 windows was to pull all the bottom casings, check for "square" and ease of operation and the addition of shims under all the hinge side jambs.
The Rep said that this condition corresponded to 90% of his call backs on casement operator failures. Always directly support the hinge side of casement windows to the framed window opening bottom plate.
Maybe this applies to your situation......FWIW!
...........Iron Helix
isn't it funny how we can remember events like this from 20 yrs ago with alarming accuracy ?
carpenter in transition
What is even more amazing (or depressing)is I can't remember what I had for breakfast yesterday! Maybe it is "the unusual" vs. "the mundane"!
..................Iron Helix
You're exactly right. I had to correct the same situation on big combo awning windows last week for exactly that reason.
Brick veneer I'd guess? Probably lumber shrinkage/settling has caused interference between sash and jamb. There should always be a gap between the sill and brick .
Remove the operator and see if the sash open and close smoothly. It could help to get yourself one of those suction cup dent pullers from an auto parts store to help pull the sash closed.
If the sash are binding, a new operator won't last long. You have to get the sash to swing free without ANY interference. May require removing casing and shimming at the minimum, or cutting the window free and resetting it as the worst case.
Rich
I had to replace 4 of these last summer for a client - windows were 20 years old. Prior to ordering the replacements (Anderson has a great on-line catalog) I contacted Anderson and was told the mechanisms failed due to time and use, and no warranty covered that.
I replaced the cranks and linkages. It took just a few minutes each, but the cost of each unit was about $80, not including shipping.
Good luck.
"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
He is a company near me that has a large number of replacement window and door parts.http://www.allaboutdoors.com/Lots of generic parts, but also appears to specialize in Andersen Parts.2 pages of openers ranging from $45 to $155.All standard disclaimers except that I was pleased to find a replace mortice lock for a security storm door there..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 7/20/2008 11:55 am by BillHartmann