hey all. I am working on an old tudor style house. The front facing dormer has a small arched doorway. All door and window trim int. and ext. is 1 x 5 with backband.
The arched window trim header was made from two pieces simply cut out of 1 x matirial. As you may imagine, the corners at the inside bottom, and inside top (where the two rainbow shaped pieces meet) are broken off because the grain of the wood is coing across the corner.
I hope i’ve explained this in a comprehensible way.
My boss is getting stressed out about other un-anticipated pandoras boxes that have cost time and money and in his stressed out state has foolishly made the decision to have me bondo the rotted trim.
I simply will not hack it with bondo so im making this trim on my own time.. SO: Although i want to learn the correct way to make this, i also have only this weekend to do it and i cannot spend the amount of time that it deserves.
My questions: I would like to learn appropriate or preferred methods. But also anything is better than what is up there now and a quick, mildly hackish solution is okay in this situation.
Here is what i’ll do unless anyone has a better idea: Miter and biscut join chunks of whitewood to get a rough archuse a router and home made circle cutting jig to cut inside and outside repeat last step for backband (basically making a false backband, just a thicker chunk glued on rather than having the rabbeted edge.
by the way the radeus is somthing like 17″ (outside)
^^sorry for my poor spelling^^
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–> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
Replies
if a quick way is what you want get some marine grade plywood. scribe the arch and cut seal the grain with min-wax wood filler or even better ####few thin coats of epoxy , along the open grain you exposed. two coats prime, screw in to place fill with min-wax or abatron if you have that which is better. sand, spot prime . stay awy from segments the grain is not going to do well in this application . i'd get in bending with lamination of strips but that is far from quick..... good luck...
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thanks, i only have some cabinet grade ply sitting around, no marine grade. Still i have to figure out the backband.______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
skye, we always make our up from 1x12 stock... usually GP PrimeTrim , or AzekMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
whats the stuff they use to laminate azek?? is that advised?? can you use any off brand products?.." Feed the good wolf....."
The best, and definitely the most expensive way would be to cut the arch(es) out of a 4x8 sheet good Azek. Sounds like it won't work for this guy. Even laminating Miratec would still go up into the $50 range. The Azek glue is around $11 but regular PVC cement can be used if it is to be painted.
Miratec or similar comes in 1x12 and 5/4 x 12 which as Mike said would be a good value solution, but I doubt this guy can get it on this short of notice as most of the builders supplies are not open on the weekend - or at least not here. BTW - a 5/4 x 12 Miratec is $46 (special order) if memory serves. I do remember the sticker shock I had - most Miratec "boards" are well under $20.
3/4" MDO exterior plywood would work nicely, but is probably $75 and not available at home centers (I don't think).
Just for amusement sake, the curved trim in this pic are cut out an Azek sheet. I wanted it to look really good since, after all, it's right on the front door:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=63152.44
Edited 10/29/2005 8:54 am ET by Matt
Given your circumstance I think your solution is the best one. Might want to use water proof glue if you have some and prime it good prior to installation if possible. I've been in that same situation where I used my own $ and time to do it right even though I was working for someone else, but, as you say, had to limit the expenditure of both commodities to a minimum.
I hope some of the "spare no expense" on my job guys are reading this so they can have a little drink of reality.
Edited 10/29/2005 9:03 am ET by Matt
matt - i'm going to disagree repectfully . sky lives i portland oregon( lots a moisture) , althought the glue will hold up . with todays wood ,at least pine , it wont stand the test of time . you've seen anderson brick molding fingered joint after a few/5 years. maybe mahogany or some such wood, staggered laminated layers would work a little better. but were talkin' a.s.a.p.. i'm ####schill for m.d.o. but even the quality of that seems iffy. depending on the lot. azek is great stuff i use it bathrooms if there a beaded wainscott application or a chair rail. i love the stuff but the expense is tough if something unforseen happens and that number drops in your lap. especially for a 24 year old guy who wants to show some initiative. marine grade ply although a little expensive than mdo , for 3/4 " there around 8 plys with a back band which protect the most suseptable (sp) grain . i dont dialogue to much with diffrent technique's that people have, because there could be a half a dozen diffrent succesful ,applications. but this time i'm gonna maybe banter a little back, ive done alot of round and elliptical work i'm not the best or the worst, but after many, many diffrent try's. i've got around five or maybe 6 pretty successful ways.. respecfully ...kent" Feed the good wolf....."
I don't think we have any disagreement on what the best/correct methods are to perform this task and as you say, there are at least a few. For one, your marine plywood is a great one. And I would never install pine on the outside of a house, except maybe if I were working for free and supplying the materials for free - which he is.
That's why I hate remodeling... Like the 40 YO mobile home rehab I got involved with at my church - what a bloody abor... never mind... It's hard to know where to stop with replacing stuff...
For him to drop $100 out of his pocket to do it just doesn't seem like a sensible option. Maybe you could help fund a great solution? I'm sure he would take your money... :-)
Also, he has to get it done this weekend. Around here anyway, real building supplies aren't' open on the weekend. Do they sell Azek or marine grade plywood at home centers where you live? Not here.
BTW - the 4'x10'x3/4" piece of Azek that was used for the arches that I pictured in the previous link cost around $237 - for just the one piece.
Really, the whole situation demonstrates why home improvement contracts have to have "rotten wood" and "hidden damage" clauses and the like.
Although his solution is not a good one, (that is what you are disagreeing with? - isn't it?) you gotta admit that it beats the heck out of bondo smeared on rotten wood... That would probably hold up for about 5 months. I'd give his "white wood" a good 4 years if it were painted/caulked/etc really well.
good points all around, matt . have agood weekend..." Feed the good wolf....."
thanks for the input everyone. If it turns out okay i'll post a pic or two______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad