Good Morning,
I have read many threads re fastening to brick and I’m more concerned than bf. Also, I’m usually over in Knots and have little experience with exterior applications.
I have to attach three window boxes (~30-40lbs ea w/wet soil) to brick (not facade, ~40 yrs old).
To accommodate the design of the boxes I’m thinking that I need to either insert hanger bolts, or screw the mountings (pt 2×6) directly to the brick. If I were to screw the mountings to the wall I would insert flush bolts through the backside (wall-side), before attaching, so the boxes can be removable with wing nuts, etc.
I just don’t know which (or neither) would be the better choice. I like the hanger bolt idea bc the mountings could be removed with the boxes. On the other hand, screwing the mountings (w/ Tapcons I guess) seems like it would produce smaller holes and less chance of brick destruction.
Please let me know what you all think.
TWG.
Replies
How are you going to hang the boxes... french cleat or z-bar or ? Why not drill a hole and epoxy a threaded rod into the brick, then attache the mount to the rod when the epoxy is set.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
should the hole be drilled into the brick or the mortar in between? Does it matter. I am building a fireplace mantel to go over brick around the fire box and your method might be good for fastening the base plates for the mante.
motor drills much easier. You would need a carbide tipped mason bit sized to lag bolt anchor,lag bolt anchors,lag blots and hammer drill to complete project. Drill hole to depth, insert lag bolt anchor, insert bolt and tighten.
Tapcon's would work for you and might be the better choice as long as you dont exceed weight limits
.
RE - weights for tapcons.
A single 3/16" Tapcon will hold way more than 30 pounds in a shear mounting situation. He will need at least 2 to keep the box level. Weight is not a problem.
Single 3/16"D. Tapcon: 1-1/4"embedment in LIGHTWEIGHT HOLLOW BLOCK = shear strength = 731 lbs. 1/4"D Tapcon same 1-1/4" embedment = shear 1058 lbs. Source = Tapcon package, tested by PTL.
Even if brick value was only 10% of hollow block you still have safety factor of about 4 when using 2 - 3/16" fasteners to mount a 30 lb box.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
French cleats (with another removable fastener) if the mounting was screwed to the wall. I would probably skip the cleat if I used hanger bolts or threaded rods as you suggest.
Drilling successfully into the brick is the part that concerned me. I have no experience with this and iv'e read about many unsuccessful attempts.
What epoxy would you recommend? How about a construction adhesive (I see PL Premium(?) is often recommended)?
Thanks
Skip the Pl. It's great stuff, but not for this. Find a industrial fastener supply house and get anchor bolts and epoxy from them. Hilti makes some."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
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Adhesive & Mechanical Anchoring
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HIT HY 20 Adhesive Anchor System
Fastening through masonry construction. Can be used where the quality of brick and mortar is inconsistent, and where voids are present between wythes of brick walls.
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"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
for someting like planters, i would not drill into the brick, and i would not install anytype of fastener which could not be removed in the event of someone wanting to remove them someday, i would also leave an air spance between the planter and the brick so you wont trap moisture
Thanks everyone for their suggestions and advice.
I believe FastEddie's suggestion of anchor bolts and epoxy will work the best. I hate the idea of permanently attaching the pt mounts to the wall w/screws.
It also seems that it would take more precise drilling to thread a bolt into the brick (hanger bolt) than it would to use an adhesive to fasten the bolt. Is this correct?
I will be using a hammer drill for this that I have enjoyed using in the past. Perhaps I should practice drilling on the neighbors brick house bf I go to the customers'.
BTW Factotam, not to brag, but these are some really nice window boxes and I can't imagine anyone ever wishing to remove them. Except, of course, if the house fell down and these incredible window boxes could be saved. Just kidding, of course. I wasn't excited to mount these to the wall either, but that's what the very nice lady wanted.
Thanks again.
an anchor bolt could be removed and so can a tapcon.
If you are using the epoxy I'm envisioning, that's way more permanent than a tapcon. Like another poster said, a tapcon can be removed, but as far as I know, once all-thread or the like is epoxyed into a hole, it won't come out.
Good luck
I'm not concerned with bolts permanently fastened to the wall, I'm concerned with the pt 2x6 mounts remaining on the walls when the boxes (hopefully) come in for the winter.
I can't imagine that once you remove a tapcon or hanger bolt from the bricks that you could use the same hole again the following year with a new tapcon/hanger bolt.
Edited 3/2/2007 4:45 am ET by TWG
http://www.instockfasteners.com/MyFA/mydescriptxhtmlpartid=18022/categoryid=179
This would go in the hole and remain . the lag could be removed as needed and replaced.
That looks great. I also found this site for instructions, etc. http://www.lag-shield.com/
That is exactly what I have proposed all along, sorry about not mentioning it by the correct name from the start. You wont need 1/2 " use a smaller size in the motor joint out side the window area as metioned if you can. If that is not practical then use 1/4" or 3/8" shield in mortor and it should not expand enough to create pressure on the brick itself. Choose a vertical joint instead of horizontal also. If some one likes later they can fill the hole in with cement. If you hang brackets to hold boxes with the shields you can just bring in the box in the winter.
Be sure to drill deep enough before you pound the shield in. Once the shield is half way in its hard to remove.
Home depot carries everything you will need. Use galv. bolts not zinc plated.
Edited 3/2/2007 11:17 am ET by AllTrade
Edited 3/2/2007 11:18 am ET by AllTrade
Be vewwy vewwy careful...
When you anchor to bricks under a window there will be an increased risk of blowing loose the bricks.
this is because they do not have the weight of the upper portion of the wall on them.
inserting any masonry fastener AND hanging a plant box will exert significant tensile forces to the masonry assembly.
and we all know that masonry (or masonary) will not prpoperly resist tension for extended periods.
Make your window boxes 2 ft. wider than the brick opening so the hanging points can be in the Full part of the wall.
or maybe rebuild the bricks and corbel them out to make a shelf.
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