Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 28, 2008 04:53pm | #1

   That makes for the strongest posts generally, but creates a point of entry for water and increased costs to flash it properly.

   I like to know my layout, and place a PT 2x12 blocking( for something to lag into) in between the sleepers where the post locates, then deck over with the IPE` or other decking material.Then I do the post with torsion box type hardware. Basicly, this places a threaded rod up the center of the post that is tightened down with a nut at the top, just under the post cap. Several of the PVC type post and rail companies have the hardware, as does Fypon.

   Let's see if I have a sample photo...Yep, this one is a replacement where I anchored it to crete footing with epoxy - and another over a Tendura deck

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   Edited 3/28/2008 5:10 pm ET by Piffin

   
1. 
   ajs | Mar 28, 2008 08:12pm | #2

   Piffin, a couple of questions about your pictures:Do you have the plates with captive nuts made up or are they a purchased item. If purchased, where do you get them?Do you use solid or box posts? If solid, to make room for the threaded rod, do you use a really long bit or saw them in half lengthwise and make a groove and glue them back together, or some other clever approach.What kind of threaded rod do you use: Plain, plated, stainless? Thanks, Al

1. 
   Piffin | Mar 29, 2008 12:08am | #3

   What you see there came from Fypon. It is galvanized already made up with the threaded nut welded into a base plate. you could probalay make up the same yourself if you have a welder. Alignment is critical though. The threaded rood is simply a standard six foot length of all-thread. You can buy this kit from Fypon distributors without buying their posts. I think the other company I got from was Weatherbest composite railings. I have used the Fypon with my own posts also. The posts are hollow box-type. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!