Replies

1. 
   IMERC | Oct 27, 2006 07:33am | #1

   as you cut around the trunk add spliting wedges behind the the saw bar...

   pound them in as you go deeper with the saw..

    

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!

   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

   
   

   ---

   Edited 10/27/2006 12:37 am by IMERC

2. 
   zak | Oct 27, 2006 08:30am | #2

   I've never had trouble with kickback in that situation- it's when the bar tip suddenly hits something you weren't expecting that you get kickback.  Position your body so that the kickback won't take itself into your face, as a general rule.

   Usually when you're cutting something bigger than the bar like this, you can dig the dogs in to the tree, pivot the saw in until you get close to the tip, then pull the saw back around, dig the dogs in again, and continue.  Picture the chainsaw rotating around the log handle first.

   By the time you've gone 90º or so, you only have about 2/3 of the log left to cut, and so on.  Like Imerc says, use some wedges in there after you've cut a good chunk of it away, so the saw doesn't bind up and kick out.

   zak

   "When we build, let us think that we build forever.  Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin

   "so it goes"

    

3. 
   QCInspector | Oct 27, 2006 11:24am | #3

   If this is a one time "project" go to the rental center and get a bigger saw. For $20 or $30 you get the stump sliced off close to the ground, nice and flat, without the kickback concerns.

   Don't forget to yell...STUMP!!!...when it's about to drop. :) :)

4. 
   Jer | Oct 27, 2006 02:34pm | #4

   Zak said it. I have felled and cut up many larger trees with my JD 18" bar. The secret is not to let the tip catch past the point of where the chain is going the wrong way thus drawing...or 'kicking' the saw back towards you. Learn to dig in and work your way around and definately use wedges as you go. Think about the mechanics of where the stresses are occuring while you are cutting and stop to remedy any situation that would cause kickback or binding.

   I remember once learning a hard lesson about sawing through too far before the kerf closed in on the saw and the entire weight of the large tree bound the saw so that it would not pull free. I had to get my 4x4 truck and a rope to pull the tree over and free my now damaged saw. The tree was biting back.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 28, 2006 02:28am | #5

   I have two chain saws. Keeps me from going after the rope and truck or tractor when I get one hung up. I generally get it right the second time <g>

5. 
   JonE | Oct 28, 2006 03:10am | #6

   Should be able to drop a 40" tree with a 20" bar.