I am redoing square columns on the front of my house. The original were 1-13/16 thick pine. I have been unable to locate anybody in my area that carries pine in that thickness. One alternative I was thinking about was to “cement” together some 5/4 Azek boards and make the columns even thicker. Has anyone done this with Azek and how difficult is it to cement together two boards. Once PVC cement is applied and boards come in to contact with each other, do you have any open time? Any help or suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Kieran
Replies
At 1 13/16" are they carrying a load?
No, purely ornamental
Why not build up the post to the desired thickness without the azek, then apply over that?
You can see the sides of the post/column so I was trying to avoid an obvious "seam. The post sits against the front of the house. I plan on adding trim pieces to the upper portions. Clapboards will abut one side of the post/column. Not sure that the way I am describing things makes sense. Thanks.
Not making sense. Please explain further or pictures, please.
See picture. I am replacing columns on both sides of the door. Left hand one removed, right still in place. Thanks, Kieran
Pad it out as suggested.You will have a seam either way but you will use less material if you pad it out.TFB (Bill)
For seamless look, mitre returns to give you the depth you want.
Glued up w/azek glue and pinned, they'll hold up forever..........or at least as long as the ones I did 6 yrs ago.......or so.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
With wood, mitered joints are usually more hassle than butts, but with Azek, you could argue that they're the easier way to go. If you're using one of the the two-part, gun-able glues, the gap-filling squeeze-out occurs at the arris, and therefore is way easier to clean up than if it's 3/4" back from the corner.Since the two-part Trimbonder-type glues are gap-filling, you allow for that squeeze-out, and a router is the clean-up tool of choice. Flush trim, 45º chamfer, and 1/16" radius RO bits are all good choices for cleaning the joint up in one pass.AitchKay
Oops. Sorry, Calvin. I ended up preachin' to the choir there, didn’t I? My previous post was actually directed at the OP, as you’ve probably figured out.I’ve used both the brush-on, plumbing-type glues, as well as the high-tech, two-part, gun-able types. I love the gap-filling qualities of the latter, but they sure are expensive, especially if you’ve only got a part-tube job.What’s your experience been?AitchKay
my experience is now on a laptop in seattle.............forgive any mistyping.for joining-just the pvc glue. for mounting to things-in addition to fasteners-urethane glue.man, cooled down in seattle upon our arrival-they credit us with relieving the heatwave.I will return.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/