Replies

1. 
   sharpblade | Sep 02, 2005 03:09am | #1

   Don't use drywall screws. Not strong enough (some will snap) and because they don't have the fins on the back of the head to make them countersink into the CBU, they won't be flush with the surface of the hardie.  DAMHIKT. Another brand that I've used for this is called Rock-On, but it too may have a wide/big head.

   The square drive is there for a reason, easier to drive these babies in without camming/slipping.

2. 
   calvin | Sep 02, 2005 03:34am | #2

   http://www.pamfast.com/screws/screws.html

   Some cement bd recommended screws from PAM.

   Will your gun accept the PAM plastic collating strip?

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   Quittin' Time

3. 
   FastEddie | Sep 02, 2005 05:05am | #3

   I have tried using deck screws on occassion, but ended up wishing I had not.  Ditto on the nibs under the heads ... it sure makes it easy to get the screws flush.  And I found that the CB screws with the philips heads tend to either snap off the bit or wallow out the recess much easier than the square drive ones.

    

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

4. 
   nikkiwood | Sep 02, 2005 05:15am | #4

   I am no expert, but I have read up on all this for a tile installation we're doing.

   Everybody is right about drywall screws.

   I don't think you necessarily need to use the square drive screws from Hardie, but you should use a screw that is is specifically designed for cement board. We ended up using some off the shelf screws from Menards that had a Phillips head.

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   Scooter1 | Sep 02, 2005 05:44am | #5

   I think the backerboard screws suck. I use galvinized nails.The main reason I use nails is that the screws sometime reverse thread on me and actually lift up the backer board during the last quarter inch of travel. Often they do not seat flush either. Nails are cheaper and more predictable."I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow." WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

1. 
   Wango1 | Sep 02, 2005 06:34am | #6

   I'm with Scooter, if you have a lot to do, get a roofing gun with galv. nails and it is sooooo much quicker. Remember to offset your corners and try not to land a seam on a joist. Also your 3 x 5 sheets should go perpendicular to your 4 x 8 plywood subfloor. Use alkali resistant mesh tape for your joints.

5. 
   IdahoDon | Sep 02, 2005 06:51am | #7

   I usually use torx-drive "gold-diggers" (general purpose/deck) for cement board and hardie board under tile.  They sink flush better than those with big heads and are stronger than sheetrock screws.  Locally these are becoming very popular for a multitude of purposes that need a bit more strength and ease of driving than sr screws.

6. 
   LEMONJELLO | Sep 02, 2005 08:05am | #8

   Of course a company will recomend their own proprietary brand of screws!
   I would too...
   Quality deck screws work great, The problems with the stand up gun in what scoot said about lifting.
   How much floor do you have?

   Put some knee pads on and a bucket of screws and go to town on it, the knee pressure helps hold down the board and you can see easier if it lifts or causes a bump, Nails work too but I have seen some pops on a 2nd floor (long span) so your call, Hardi screws work great but you have gravity helping you. Save the 'spensive hardi screws for the tub surround.

   I cut the board twice and its still too short ! ! !
7. 
   JeffBuck | Sep 02, 2005 08:40am | #9

   I hand nail gal roofing nails.

    

   Jeff

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