Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 09, 2000 05:10pm | #1

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   Fortunately they're not solid brass, as you figured, because they'd disintegrate. Re camming out, I've installed a dozen or so of these without too much trouble, but I may have used a square drive bit, which fits nicely into the recess. (I used square-drive 2-1/2" screws in the stud-side holes.)

   Are you sure you're not overtorqueing? My driver has a clutch, and I don't set it much tighter than I'd be able to drive the screw by hand, using a bit of polyurethane to lock the threads to the wood better. No expert...

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 05:14am | #2

   *Fred:Good news, it not just you!I have had the same problem with Baldwin lock sets. The screws for strike plate and those that hold the strike mechanism (correct terminology?) into the door are definitely i solid brass and a standard Phillips screwdriver does not seem to fit in the screw properly. They are i not square drive. Sometimes you can get them in intact (unstripped) with a hand screwdriver, but put a power driver on 'em and forget it. I just toss the Baldwin screws and use some that are more reasonable to deal with. I think that there are actually different types of Phillips bits/screwdrivers; these types with the narrower "cross" may be called something else.Sharing your frustration,Matt

2. 
   brisketbean_ | Feb 10, 2000 06:48am | #3

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   I have no trouble with thier locks or butts, try a #3 phillips bit, and use a little bowl wax for lubrication. The thing to watch is thier templates, just like most other templates for full mortice locks, they are off on hole locations on one side of the door.

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 06:49am | #4

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   With the exception of machine screws, I always use the appropriate size Vix bit, then drive in steel screws. After I'm satisfied with the fit, etc., I remove them and then set the brass screws. This makes setting brass screws much easier without stripping the heads. I'm with Matt on chucking the bad ones. I always have a box of assorted screw sizes and styles when in install hardware. Try rubbing your screws over a piece of wax before driving them, makes them go in better. Bill Swales

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 08:43am | #5

   *Bill:What's a Vix bit?

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 09:03am | #6

   *Matt,It's a self piloting drill bit that fits the holes in the hinge. Does that make sense?Check the tool catalogs and buy a #6 and a #8.You will love it.Ed. Williams

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 09:07am | #7

   *Most Baldwins over 4x4 use a #3 tip. They do make a #2 reduced head #2 bit (known as a "sheetrock" tip - for screw guns) that will sit further into the phillips. Ed. Williams

4. 
   Fred_Matthews | Feb 10, 2000 09:40am | #8

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   thanks for the advice...and yes, I do use a Vix bit and steel screws until I do my final installation...i'll try the #3 phillips..but feel i'll really end up using new screws.

1. 
   Fred_Matthews | Feb 10, 2000 09:55pm | #9

   *andrewd:your square drive bit solution was the answer...thanksfred

5. 
   Guest_ | Feb 10, 2000 10:27pm | #10

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   On the Vix bit -- copied by others under other names -- the larger hinges (I think I was using 4"?) have #12 screws -- the smaller Vix is OK for soft jambs but for the oak door I bought a #12 size, a little hard to find and ridiculously expensive at $20. But it centers right in the hinge leaf's big countersink.

   For the screws, you're probably right on to just chuck 'em. I recommend McFeely's yellow zinc-plate steel screws, they don't clash so bad with the nice brass and are all square drive so you don't skip out and tear out the recess or mess up the brass. They sell the large "Vix" too. http://www.mcfeelys.com

   I used 1/2 of the Baldwin screws because I had nothing shorter than 2-1/2" #12. The brass looked nice until I got called back because I made the mistake of plumbing the jambs on the builder's bad install of the double doors, leaving too much space in the center. After removing and reinstalling the screws, well, they didn't look so good...

   Anyone of you experts know how to remove light scratches from bright brass?

   Weird thing I've noticed -- on some of the self-centering bits the actual bit is tapered, as was done for the old-style tapered wood screw.

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 11, 2000 06:49pm | #11

   *I've installed both Baldwin and Ball & Ball Hardware and I always do it in 3 steps: 1) Use the appropriate Vix bit to start; 2) Use the identical sized screw in steel with square drive to get the threads started; 3) Run the finished brass screw in with some LLoyd's Alkumpunkey or good old parafin wax. Takes a aminute or two longer but folks spending the money on Baldwin or Ball & Ball expect the best job possible!

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 12, 2000 08:07am | #12

   *cool

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 14, 2000 09:30am | #14

   *I have had some Baldwin screws come apart under what I thought was proper torque when I had predrilled the holes and waxed the screws. I take extra care when using their screws but feel they are the weak link in an otherwise superior product. Skip

6. 
   Fred_Matthews | Feb 14, 2000 09:30am | #13

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   Has anyone ever had difficulty with the screws provided with Baldwin butt hinges, specifically their polished brass finish? Is it me, or is it impossible to find a drive bit to engage the screw head? Baldwin supplies nice polished brass screws in their own nifty little ziploc bag, sized for a no. 2 phillips bit. Yet the screw depression for the drive is filled too deep with , I assume to be plating. The solution would be to grind the tip off a drive bit, but then the bit slips at the slightest movement and #%&$s up the screw. It suprises me since everything else supplied with their locks seems to be well machined.
   Any solutions out there other than the obvious (replace the screws).