*
I’m finishing out my basement and am wondering if there are some nice clean options for ceiling materials. T-bar and tile is fine but looks pretty commercial. Gyp. looks the cleanest when done but is more labor intensive (especially considering the amount of soffits required in a basement) and doesn’t allow any access to above ceiling mechanicals. The ceiling framing is 2×10’s at 16″ O.C. Are there any clean, clever (did I mention clean?) products out there?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Fine Homebuilding's editorial director has some fun news to share.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
I recently did a tongue and groove 1x6 'V' bead ceiling, done in a pickled oak finish...and I must say it looks pretty sharp. If you really feel the need to have access, put some access panels where you feel fit. I would much rather have a nice ceiling, abd if there is a mechanical problem down the road, deal with access then. I have never liked the drop ceiling look, always has looked cheap to me.
just my $.02
pm
*Thanks Peter, If I could get close to the cost of gyp with 1x6 T and G, I would do it. Obviously the clientele of Foxbrook Renovations are doing better than this lowly Intern Architect. I agree with you about the appearance of dropped ceilings. They leave a lot to be desired. I thought there might be some kind of clean interlocking tile system out there but maybe it will just be up to me to design that one. Hey, there's my million. Although if I had a million bucks, I guess I would then want that 1x6 T and G. Hmmmm...
*
Use drywall, acoustic tile looks horrible. I'm always struck by a drywalled finished basement, it looks much more professional. I'm halfway through ripping out and replacing some for a client. To make the surface consistent easily, skim-coat the entire thing (this, Mr. Architect, is a class 5 finish). You can texture it if you like. Thorough check out the mechanicals and run an excess of wires before you close it up ... it won't kill you if you have to get in later 7 patch. Besides, drywall is CHEAPER in materials.
*Intern Architect? Are you sure this is not a homework assignment? Here are some thoughts and a couple of suggestions that might get you an "A".Thought #1. Ceiling heighth in most basements is at a premium. You want the ceiling as high as possible. Try to mitigate anything works against that.Thought #2. HVAC ductwork, DWV plumbing, natural gas lines, and electrical lines almost never need maintenance. They get covered in most above ground construction and no one thinks anything about it. You should not have any reservations about doing the same in a basement.Thought #3. If you have aggressive water in your area there may be a benefit in planning access to your supply lines. At the same time, supply lines are just about the easiest of all the mechanical and utility systems to reroute in a remodel. Suggestion #1. Look at all of your "stalactite" mechanical and utility systems and relocate as many as possible into joist bays or along walls. A little time, effort and inginuity can really open up a ceiling area. For example, sometimes you can use soft copper tubing to "jump" a water line over a DWV pipe or HVAC duct in a joist bay. If you have any friends in the trades invite them over and ask for ideas. $20 worth of PVC fittings, pipe and glue and an hour or two may be all it takes to move a drain out of the way. Suggestion #1A. Don't forget the beer.Suggestion #2. HVAC services are frequently overlooked in basement remodels. Have a professional look at your plans before you build. Systems may have to be upgrade or ductwork modified to give your basement the services it needs. You HVAC professional may be able to move or modify the ductwork to accomodate your plan at the same time. Suggestion #3. Use drywall to box in the stuff you can not push up. The fraimwork for these boxes, or more properly soffits, does not have to be massive, 2"x2" and 1"x3" stock are generally sufficient. Unless the soffit will be unusually wide, you may not need to frame underneath (i.e., like a ladder). 1/2" drywall will span 2'. The inch or two that you save will really show up.Suggestion #4. Soffits look best running along walls. Try to integrate your soffits with your floor plan. Suggestion #5. A soffit along one wall always looks out of place. Consider ballancing with soffits around other walls. Also consider 45ing the corners and beveling the inside soffit walls. With a little inginutiy you may be able to come up with a real architectural statement.Suggestion #6. String your joists. If the bottom of the joists are not even you will have a wavy ceiling. The fix is to strap with 1"x3" material. As a plus, 1/2" water lines can be run across and below joists if you strap the ceilings with 1" nominal boards. 3/4" and 1" lines will require 2" nominal strapping. This is a good way to hide the lines and get a flat ceiling.Suggestion #7. You seem concerned about "clean" and drywall is a messy product to install. Most of the mess is dust, waste, and splatters. A drywall hanging crew will be in a hurry and they will make a mess. Do the job yourself if you can. You will save money and you will be inclined to work neater. You can controll much of the dust and almost all of the waste by cutting outside. You are going to have to carry the boards into the basement anyway so it does not add much to the job. Sanding dust and splatters are a function of finishing technique. I have seen finishers who leave almost no mess at all. Ask around. With a little care and some plastic sheeting you should be able to manage the mess.All of the above, of course, is not what you asked for. I am passing it along because drywall really is one of the easiest to use and most flexable of all the materials used in constructon today. Given the options, I think you will be much happier over the long run with a drywall ceiling. When it comes to materials, short cuts always show up. Good luck!
*Don't forget code requires access to all elec junction boxes (there are often plenty of those hanging around the basement ceiling), and you want access to any mechanical controls (e.g., hose bib shut-offs.)FWIW, I saw a drop panel ceiling the other day which used gypboard panels. Looked better than the usual panels; don't know how long before they start to sag or about weight considerations.Bob
*
I'm finishing out my basement and am wondering if there are some nice clean options for ceiling materials. T-bar and tile is fine but looks pretty commercial. Gyp. looks the cleanest when done but is more labor intensive (especially considering the amount of soffits required in a basement) and doesn't allow any access to above ceiling mechanicals. The ceiling framing is 2x10's at 16" O.C. Are there any clean, clever (did I mention clean?) products out there?