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Hi guys –
I have a big bay window in the kitchen. I have noticed the beginnings of water damage at the bottom corners of the big center window. I can sand/patch & repaint, but this will not cure the underlying problem, right?
Should I re-caulk the outside of the window? Of all the bay windows? ( has 2 side windows and one large center window)Top only?
What do you recommend?
Thanks – Wolvie
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Replies
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Wolv.
Could be coming from above. What kind of roof, siding, flashing to wall. Also, some of those dbl hung windows fill up quick and may let water in at the bot. corners. Check the weep holes if they're added storm/screens. Did this occur during your deluge up in beantown a few wks ago? Wind direction may help guide you to the source of entry. Take a pic and print it here. Someone will have a tip.
Where you been lately?
*Wolverine,
View Image © 1999-2000"More than any time in history mankind faces a crossroads. One path leads to despair and utter hopelessness, the other to total extinction. Let us pray that we have the wisdom to choose correctly." Woody Allen
*Wolvie -Is the big window single pane? If so, it could be from years of condensation dripping. Even if double, I've seen this problem many times in the center bay, particularly in kitchens where theres a lot of moisture generated. Gravity takes it to the bottom sash rail. Consider the possibility that there may not really be an underlying 'problem' except that boiling pot of water on the stove.Jeff
*The big window is a double, but it does not open. No screens, etc. Cal, I'll have to get a pic like you said, I don't quite understand what's going on. The window is set in the wall, the roof overhangs it about 8" + higher. [sigh] - home ownership - never ending chores! ;-)This had to be from before the last big storm, damage is too far along. I just hadn't sat at the small table in ages, so that chair hadn't been pulled out, etc., etc.i Where you been lately? Gardening! (and painting rooms) ;-)
*Wolverine,
View Image © 1999-2000"More than any time in history mankind faces a crossroads. One path leads to despair and utter hopelessness, the other to total extinction. Let us pray that we have the wisdom to choose correctly." Woody Allen
*Well, yes. Sorry if I didn't make that clear. :-)
*Wolvie, you can patch and re-caulk the entire perimeter, but if the picture sash itself is shot, it's usually an easy replacement. Even site-built bays typically use standard picture sashes, which are pretty much a pop-out/pop-in job.Hope this helps, Steve
*okay, Steve - dumb question - how can I tell if the sash is shot?
*Not a dumb question at all, and it's often a bit of a judgment call...Tidewater Virginia is the home of rot... occasional wind shifts to the west distribute rot, termites and mildew spores from here to the rest of the country. Regretably, I have no control over this phenomena, and apologize to all of you out there.What I see here is generally a situation where the water has entered the wood sash frame along the glass line. Once it gets in, the rot progresses out of sight until the paint blisters and the homeowner or contractor detects the damage. A test with an ice pick will tell you how soft the wood is and how fat the damage has progressed.If you're gonna patch the sash, you're gonna have to dig out the rot until you get back to solid, dry wood. If the rot is such that the area of the wood supporting the glass panel is shot and or the wood has rotted to the sill, then you'll probably want to use a product by Abatron rather than some Minxax High-Performance (Bondo-like) stuff. No guarantee, but you might get through a couple of more years.My preference is to replace the sash when things look that bad... My clients are willing to pay for corrective work (as opposed to patchwork), and I'm always concerned about the rot spreading to the sill and jamb if the moisture source isn't completely eliminated.New picture sashes aren't that expensive, and can be obtained from local building supply houses (I did'nt say Big Boxes). If you have a question as to the size, sometimes their rep will come out and help with the measurement. You will have the chance to up-grade the picture sash, too. Low-E Argon filled is standard around here, and transmits a little less light than standard IG.After fitting in the new sash, prime, caulk, and apply two coats of paint. I have found by inspecting my own work which I know had proper prep and paint that it's wise to check after a year to see if any re-caulking and touch-up is necessary.Hope this helps,Hot and humid in Williamsburg, Steve
*Wolvie,Just looked at a fixed pane pic. window that had a gap between the glass and the exterior stop on the sash. It was allowing water to enter in the middle of the sash and then it channeled to each side where it slipped behind the drywall. This was a 12 yr old pella. Take a look.
*Thanks again, guys! Just checking back in after a few days - will definitely check the sash issue out, & cal - I believe these are Pella Windows in this house! Hard to tell completely - the contractor(I did not have this house built, BTW) installed the vinyl runners on the sides of the windows that open (like for the replacement windows you can tilt in and out), but then cut wooden windows to fit that! Can you believe that? Why would someone do that? Left overs from another job?? Anyway, one of the pieces of wood frame has Pella on it.The pic window is all wood.
*If these are putzed together, then check the head flashings on those windows too. Maybe he didn't have any lying around. Seasonal movement will break loose many "caulk" flashings. Solution, take it apart and do it right, or keep caulking (remove the old)every season.