Heres one for the intrerior trim boys out there. My bungalow has a bowed dining room wall all brick {plaster over butter brick on the interior}. The orignal base was 1×8 fir which was removed for some reason and replaced with anderson base. I have been putting off this little project because I know it is going to be a pain inthe a**. The only solution I can come up with is to make a pattern , steam the base, and bend it. Any shortcuts or alternatives will be appreciated.
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What does the base look like? How long is it? Is it paint grade or will it be stained? Does it have a moulded profile or is it just a flat piece of trim? If the latter, you can build it up out of several layers to get the proper thickness. Or , if you're including some kind of base cap, you can kerf the back of the base to fit the curve. There's also a number of flex trims available in different profiles that may work. There's a number of techniques to do what you want, its just a matter of deciding which would work best. IMO, steam bending is probably the most difficult solution.
If it's painted and a common profile, maybe you can glue up some rips of pine on the Wall. Take it to the nearest millwork shop and they can mill it to match.
I would check with them before going through the trouble of gluing it up. But, here in western New Jesey and Eastern Pa curved walls are commonplace and most shops can match almost any profile.
It will be stained Fir 1x8 with a roundover on the top. The piece in question is about 13' long. I thought about kerfing and trying to laminate the base in place but I just can't work it out in my mind. I thought about the flexable trim but could I match the grain?
Could you install the flat 1x8 part and add the roundover as a separate piece? I recently installed a 1x8 qtr. sawn white oak base on a curved wall. I used 2 layers of 1/4" ply with the oak as the finish layer and covered the laminated edge with a separate piece that was I was able to bend into place. It might be worth it to experiment with different techniques to see what would work best.
Shep is on the right track. Make it in a 2 piece system.
Surface the 1x8. Rout off the roundoff - say 3/4" radius - in the clearest edge of the board. Use your best table saw rip blade to cut the rounded 3/4" portion off the 1x8. Joint the edges if necessary but take off minimum material. Cut saw kerfs in back of 1x8 with mitre saw set to depth (typ. 2/3 of stock thickness). Lay the quarter round piece on its curved face and carefully make saw kerfs that cut through the squared part of the stock but do not pierce through into the curved, finished face. You will probably need a rest made of scrap with an appropriately shaped groove routed into it.
Now you have two pieces of trim that will flex around the profile and have matching grain. Obviously the quarter round will be exceedingly fragile; handle with care.
Of course, all of the above is keyed toward stain grade. For paint grade probably fastest thing would be to use smaller radius round off, cut full width kerfs, fasten to wall, spackle generously, sand carefully.
Enjoy! I love this kind of stuff.
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
I like your idea and I think I could make that work, it never occurred to me to use plywood and top it with a roundover. thanks!