I thought I would come back to the folks on this site to see if anyone has come up with a good method to seal the air leaks caused by Can Lights.
I’ve several in the house and notice the other day how much air was infiltrating into the conditioned space. I don’t put any high wattage lamps in them. I wondered if I could have insulated boxes built around them and them add insulation over the boxes? Will this work?
Any good suggestions …..
Thanks
Replies
How about replacing the fixtures with newer ones, using gasketed trims? At maybe $6/can and $6/trim .... we're not talking about raiding the college fund here!
Thanks for the input. I realize that the initial cost of replacement isn't drastic but the cost to have someone go up into a 100 degree plus unfinished attic adds to the cost. I do realize this maybe the best solution. Any suggestions on which are the best light cans? Thanks
Unless you have IC-rated cans, replacing them is about the only thing you can do. Unless they have overtemp protection (the older ones didn't), insulating them could prove dangerous. While you're replacing them, you can get air tight ones as well.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
MikeThanks for the input ...Do you know if the air tight ones are also insulated? Here in Texas the heat in the attic is hard to keep out of the air conditioned space.Also, I'm from your neck of the woods. Waynesburg PA. Haven't been up in a few years because of work (lack there of) and cost of travel.Thanks Tim
The last airtite ones I got were also IC-rated. Don't know if they all are. I suspect that they are made to comply with various green codes, so I wouldn't be surprised. I'd plan on re-doing these in the fall when attic temps are not quite so deadly hot. (Or at night, LOL!)
Waynesburg is a neat little town. I get through there every once in a while.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Please pardon my ignorance. I see IC rated and non-IC rated. Can someone please explain what these terms mean?Also, I was looking online and saw some Halo Air Tite baffle trim pieces. These seem to be replacement trims for existing can fixtures. Can I just replace the trim on my existing fixtures with these to eliminate the air infiltration into the house?Thanks
Tim
IC = insulated contact
Means the devices are rated to come within direct contact with insulation
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"If you come to a fork in the road, take it"
SailfishThanks ....
Question 1: already answered.
Question 2: Depends. If they have a lens, then they will stop the drafts. If not, they won't, unless the can is also airtight. The airtight trim (without a lens) is pretty much just ordinary trim with a foam gasket that fits between it and the ceiling designed to stop the air that flows through the crack between the rim of the can and the hole in the ceiling.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Check out this site: http://www.haloltg.com/common/brands.cfm?pg=Detail&brand=Halo&category=Recessed%20Downlighting%3A%203%22%20Incandescent%20and%20Low%20Voltage%3A%203%22%20Housings&id=14542
An alternative that may work
http://creelighting.com/products.htm
Switch to LED. Very little heat generated so you should be able to simply change the bulb and seal the existing can and attic penetrations. Anyone know why this would not work?
"The LR6 is a downlight module for new construction and retrofit that installs easily in most standard six inch recessed IC or non-IC housings. The LR6 generates white light with LED’s in a new way that enables an unprecedented combination of light output, high efficacy, beautiful color, and affordability.
Performance Summary
• Nominal delivered light output = 650 lumens
• Nominal input power = 12 Watts
• Dimmable to 20% "
"Anyone know why this would not work?"
Yep. 'Cause whoever buys the house in the future may not know that the non-IC can is now sealed and insulated and is thus no longer designed for normal lamping. If for any number of reasons they don't like the LED lighting, and replace it with a spot, you have trouble.
And, I wouldn't be surprised if it was cheaper to just replace the cans. (Not sayin' better, or cheaper in the long run -- just cheaper initially. Jury's still out on LEDs IMO.)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Looks like the best solution is to go with replacement. Lucky I don't have to many to replace. Now I have to decide on what type (IC can, florescent, LED, etc).Thanks for all the replies ...
i would put in can lights that are rated to come into contact with insulation, and then i would cover them with a box and seal and insulate.
i highly reccomend the taunton press for pro's by pro's book on insulation and weatherization. great stuff, insulation is all in the details and this book is a step by step guide.
someon who remembers better than I will tell you the author's name, or search.
Thanks for the info ....After my new roof (replaced because of bad hail storm) I'll get my handyman friend to look at replacing the cans.