Replies

1. 
   renosteinke | May 20, 2008 04:22pm | #1

   How about replacing the fixtures with newer ones, using gasketed trims? At maybe $6/can and $6/trim .... we're not talking about raiding the college fund here!

1. 
   timby | May 20, 2008 04:31pm | #2

   Thanks for the input. I realize that the initial cost of replacement isn't drastic but the cost to have someone go up into a 100 degree plus unfinished attic adds to the cost. I do realize this maybe the best solution. Any suggestions on which are the best light cans? Thanks

2. 
   MikeHennessy | May 20, 2008 04:38pm | #3

   Unless you have IC-rated cans, replacing them is about the only thing you can do. Unless they have overtemp protection (the older ones didn't), insulating them could prove dangerous. While you're replacing them, you can get air tight ones as well.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   timby | May 20, 2008 04:49pm | #4

   MikeThanks for the input ...Do you know if the air tight ones are also insulated? Here in Texas the heat in the attic is hard to keep out of the air conditioned space.Also, I'm from your neck of the woods. Waynesburg PA. Haven't been up in a few years because of work (lack there of) and cost of travel.Thanks Tim

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 20, 2008 05:53pm | #5

   The last airtite ones I got were also IC-rated. Don't know if they all are. I suspect that they are made to comply with various green codes, so I wouldn't be surprised. I'd plan on re-doing these in the fall when attic temps are not quite so deadly hot. (Or at night, LOL!)

   Waynesburg is a neat little town. I get through there every once in a while.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   timby | May 20, 2008 06:21pm | #6

   Please pardon my ignorance. I see IC rated and non-IC rated. Can someone please explain what these terms mean?Also, I was looking online and saw some Halo Air Tite baffle trim pieces. These seem to be replacement trims for existing can fixtures. Can I just replace the trim on my existing fixtures with these to eliminate the air infiltration into the house?Thanks
   Tim

1. 
   Sailfish | May 20, 2008 06:25pm | #7

   IC = insulated contact

    

   Means the devices are rated to come within direct contact with insulation

    

    -----------------------------------------------------------------------------

   "If you come to a fork in the road, take it"

2. 
   timby | May 20, 2008 06:35pm | #8

   SailfishThanks ....

3. 
   MikeHennessy | May 20, 2008 09:13pm | #10

   Question 1: already answered.

   Question 2: Depends. If they have a lens, then they will stop the drafts. If not, they won't, unless the can is also airtight. The airtight trim (without a lens) is pretty much just ordinary trim with a foam gasket that fits between it and the ceiling designed to stop the air that flows through the crack between the rim of the can and the hole in the ceiling.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

3. 
   Sbds | May 20, 2008 07:13pm | #9

   Check out this site: http://www.haloltg.com/common/brands.cfm?pg=Detail&brand=Halo&category=Recessed%20Downlighting%3A%203%22%20Incandescent%20and%20Low%20Voltage%3A%203%22%20Housings&id=14542

4. 
   CJM | May 20, 2008 09:21pm | #11

   An alternative that may work
   http://creelighting.com/products.htm

   Switch to LED. Very little heat generated so you should be able to simply change the bulb and seal the existing can and attic penetrations. Anyone know why this would not work?

   "The LR6 is a downlight module for new construction and retrofit that installs easily in most standard six inch recessed IC or non-IC housings. The LR6 generates white light with LED’s in a new way that enables an unprecedented combination of light output, high efficacy, beautiful color, and affordability.
   Performance Summary
   • Nominal delivered light output = 650 lumens
   • Nominal input power = 12 Watts
   • Dimmable to 20% "

1. 
   MikeHennessy | May 20, 2008 09:34pm | #12

   "Anyone know why this would not work?"

   Yep. 'Cause whoever buys the house in the future may not know that the non-IC can is now sealed and insulated and is thus no longer designed for normal lamping. If for any number of reasons they don't like the LED lighting, and replace it with a spot, you have trouble.

   And, I wouldn't be surprised if it was cheaper to just replace the cans. (Not sayin' better, or cheaper in the long run -- just cheaper initially. Jury's still out on LEDs IMO.)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   timby | May 20, 2008 09:37pm | #13

   Looks like the best solution is to go with replacement. Lucky I don't have to many to replace. Now I have to decide on what type (IC can, florescent, LED, etc).Thanks for all the replies ...

5. 
   segundo | May 21, 2008 01:47am | #14

   i would put in can lights that are rated to come into contact with insulation, and then i would cover them with a box and seal and insulate.

   i highly reccomend the taunton press for pro's by pro's book on insulation and weatherization. great stuff, insulation is all in the details and this book is a step by step guide.

   someon who remembers better than I will tell you the author's name, or search.

1. 
   timby | May 21, 2008 02:31pm | #15

   Thanks for the info ....After my new roof (replaced because of bad hail storm) I'll get my handyman friend to look at replacing the cans.