The vinyl siding on my home seems to be bubble or wave in a few spots. It was sided two years ago with an alcoa siding product that was relatively high grade at the time. It seems to be more prevalent just above a seam although it has distorted itself in the middle of some short sections where there are no seams as well. Any ideas what causes this before I start to unzip sections and replace them? Installer error or poor product?
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Sounds like the installer may have nailed everything tight.
Easiest thing to do, is find a short length. Grab it as best you can along it's bottom edge and see if you can slide it side to side a tad. If you can't, I'd suggest you take a peak at an area that is showing severe signs of buckleing. Pop the bottom of a peice out of it's lock. If the nail heads are indeed set flush and not left aprox. 1/8" proud, call the installer back to see what he's willing to do to make good.
Vinyl siding needs to be able to expand and contract with the weather. Nails should be placed in the centers of the nail slots and left 1/8" proud of the surface.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
Thanks J.D.,
That sounds like the most probable culprit. The installer is no longer in business (big surprise) so it's not a possibility to get him back. I have plenty of overstock to replace the damaged lengths but if I simply pop back some nails will the sun do the rest? Is it even worth a try or should I just remove and replace. Overall the siding job looks good except for a small section that gets a lot of sun.
Certainly easy enough to repair yourself. Hardest part will be re-locking the final course to the one below.
Not knowing what your house looks like, or the area of damage involved....start at the highest point....the eave, or the gable if anywhere near the damaged area....and work your way down removing all those lengths in question. Replace any of the blistered (actually damaged) pieces, and pull any/all nails set tight as you work your way back up.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
The damaged section is about 10 sections south of the eave. Do I need to take all those sections out or is there a trick to re-locking two sections once they've been unzipped?
Thanks again JD
As USAnigel mentioned, there is a tool that makes life somewhat easier when disconnecting and reconnecting the locks.
But it still might be easier....even with the tool...... to start up at the eaves. It'll give you an opportunity to renail that section properly.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
There is a tool for "unpoping" the sections. Can be used for repoping too. Looks like a little hook on a flat handle.
Do this in warm weather as you need to be able to flex the siding.
No need to replace anything. Likely the sections were nailed too tight or are being "hemmed in" by the channels on each end. You may need to unzip the course above and loosen the nails, or get one end loose on some pieces and shorten them up about 3/8".
I've read all the posts, I believe that the bubble is caused by the piece being too long. Are the offending pieces one length without a seam? Try to slide this piece from side to side,there should be a bit of play. The south side gets the most sun,thus expands more. The box stores sell the tool to unzip the siding.Only unzip the siding above the bubbled pieces. Pop the nails out ,recut and renail leaving the head 1/16" or so proud of the siding.You can zip the siding back the same way you unzipped it.
mike
My rule of thumb for tightness is that you should be able to get your fingernail easily under the nail head.
What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell
Hope you do that test AFTER you've finished hammering, and not WHILE.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Pp, Qq
If I was installing vinyl siding on my house I'd need to do the test while I was hammered.
What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell
Thanks so much to all of you for your help. Much appreciated!