Replies

1. 
   try50772 | Jul 11, 2006 04:05am | #1

   Split it down the middle, rout the wire groove it it and reglue with your favorite out door glue.
   You will only loose your kerf, a bandsaw is a good choice as is a tablesaw with a thin kerf blade.
   You could also use the tablesaw to dado the post instead of a router...

2. 
   Ted W. | Jul 11, 2006 04:20am | #2

   You can find really long spade bits at an electricians supply. You'd probably still need extensions but they might go up to 48". Customer should be billed for these, as you'll probably never need them again.

   --------------------------------------------------------

   For a good time, visit MyToolbox.net 
   See some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com

3. 
   MarkH | Jul 11, 2006 04:22am | #3

   How about running a copper pipe (3/8) as a conduit?

   Or rout a grove and fill it with a strip of wood to match.

   Drilling would be a bummer, but possible.  There are those long 4' flexible bits too.

4. 
   saulgood | Jul 11, 2006 08:32pm | #4

   All good ideas, i just wanted to throw out another.

   Pick a side which will be the least visible after install. On a table saw set at a 45 degree angle, make two passes with the post so that you've got a long "V" removed down the center. (This can be big or small, depending on how deep you need to run the wiring). Use the tablesaw back at 90 degrees to CAREFULLY cut down the right angle on the wedge to allow room for wiring. When you glue it all back together (titebond II) the wedge will sit a little below the surface of the post because of the saw kerfs, but you can make a couple of passes on the saw to level it out, then sand with the grain until smooth.

   Drilling wouldn't be that hard, but If this is on a deck or porch I don't see why you couldn't just make it quick and neat with a saw...

   EDIT: in other words, exactly what try50772 said! whoops.

   
   

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   Edited 7/11/2006 1:35 pm ET by saulgood

5. 
   DaveRicheson | Jul 11, 2006 09:48pm | #5

   Where are you located?

   I have a 48" extension, but the smallest hole size for it to follow is 3/4". It is turned down to fit  1/2" drill.

   It takes two people to get started with an extension bit that long. It wants to wonder around a little, even with an auger bit, and you need the extra set of eyeballs to stay straight for the first foot or so.

   If you are close (hour or two) it would work for you.

    

   Dave

1. 
   Comic | Jul 11, 2006 10:37pm | #6

   Thanks for the offer Dave. However I am up in the Chicago area which is a little to far away.

   I actually tried a 5/8 spade bit with a 12" extension just to see how it would work and for some reason the bit wandered all over the place once it got 8 to 10 inches into the post so that was not good.

   I am going to attempt to use my bandsaw with a new blade and then route a groove and then glue the post back together as has been suggested. Thanks to everyone who responded. I am always reminded whenever I read this forum that, "none of us is as smart as all of us".

    

    

    

2. FHB Editor
   JFink | Jul 11, 2006 10:53pm | #7

   There's a very important question that needs to be answered first: Is the post in place, or can it be run through a table saw, bandsaw, etc, etc?

   Two very different situations...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial

   Your Friendly Neighborhood Moderator