Anyone know of good photos on the net where I can show my wife how a boxed cornice on rake end is framed and finished.
I’d rather not rip ours apart, and she ain’t getting my art work.
Anyone know of good photos on the net where I can show my wife how a boxed cornice on rake end is framed and finished.
I’d rather not rip ours apart, and she ain’t getting my art work.
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Replies
here's one we did on a red cedar shingle addition
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
and a little more finished viewMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Wow Mike...you really get into those hip bevels.
Is that your ugly pug in that picture?
One trick I've developed over the years is to use a solid combination ridge and commons that nail against the wall. I'll try to explain without pics.
Most of our boxes are drawn to be 36" long (we usually scale them). Often the pitch is 10/12.
To make the ridge, assuming equal pitches, we might "carve" it out of a hunk of 2x10. It's quite easy to figure the overall length...it's...drumroll please....36"!
I then cut the 10/12 pitch (mark the 12) off both ends, flip it over and bevel it at the 40 degree mark (or whatever it technically is...i cant see the degrees on my saw, so, it really doesn't matter...). Keep in mind that the ridge is not quite 9.25 high....you'll have to do some fancy math to figure the exact height.
This one piece solid rafter/ridge/rafter combo provides exceptional stability on an often overhanging component.
I'll post some pics....in the next boogerin thread!
blue
If it ever happens.If you want to read a fancy personal signature... go read someone else's post.
Hey blue, welcome back!
Very nice craftsmanship.
I'd be concerned about that bear sniffing around that close to my work though. Somebody leave a can of sardines from lunch in the "box" of the cornice.
Thanks Dave!
Were you able to understand that dissertation on hip return ridges?
blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature... go read someone else's post.
Yep.
Are you talking about the back piece that gets nailed to the building cutting out of a 2x10 and making a slash cut as we would call it by holding the framinfg square on 10/12 and marking the 12" side on both ends and then beveling the top at 40° for a 10/12 roof?
If your 2x10 measures about 9.25" it would give you just under 1' overhang total and then you would nail your front commons and hips to that rafter/ridge/rafter combo of yours?
Joe Carola