Brick Mold on Andersen Series 400 Window
DaveBishop
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
How best to finish off lower ends of brick mold on sides of Andersen windows? I have installed some new Andersen Series 400 double-hung windows in my home (tore back to RO and installed as in new construction). I want to use 2″ vinyl brick mold around them so as to match the remaining original wooden windows. The ends of the sill do not extend past the window to receive the bottom end of the side moldings, as on the wooden windows. I could just cross-cut the bottom ends of the molding, as on a door frame, but I wonder if there is a way to visually extend the ends of the sill below the brick mold.
Replies
Dave, the 400 series I am familiar with do not contain a sill. The wrap is the same on all sides. In this case I would add a sill below the window and extend that to each side to rcv the brickmld.
Mike Smith has made up some faux sills using Trex. Azek and other pvc stock would also be a good choice.
A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Got any pictures of this? I bet Mike would provide some if we asked really nice. I've seen him do this detail before and meant to save it for later use. I like the way he does it.
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Have you looked at the Azek products? I prefer their brick molding to any other and they make a 1 1/4" thick trim board that makes nice window sills. Maybe you can match your older windows with a little innovative carpenter work!
What do you like about the Azek brick mould moreso than the stuff at Lowe's or HD?http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I don't know what the stuff at HD or Lowes looks like, but I've used a lot of different types of plastic brick mould and I like Azek much better than any of the others I've tried.
You can drive nails through Azek easily without worrying about shatters or splits, it looks better than the others, and it can be easily glued with their adhesive at the joints.
Once you try it, you will use it all the time.
Fastenmaster had come out with a bit that drives the screw, the screw has cutters that countersink it, the bit has a flange that sets the screw to a required depth. They then supply a plug to cover the screw.
This began with decking, but they will soon release an azek plug in white for sure. Wood grain or smooth.
The plugs are small, maybe 1/4-5/16'ths. Could be the new way to make fasteners in Azek disappear.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I like that idea!
Here's the link for the deck board system. My lumberyard tells me it is soon to be available for azek trimboards.
CortexA Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I don't think I've seen Azek profiled trim. The HD/Lowe's stuff does have a shiny "skin", unlike azek flat stock. I've never had a problem with the generic, it's pretty inexpensive, too.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."