Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 02, 1999 06:12am | #1

   *
   pilot hole and an EZ-out?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 02, 1999 08:21pm | #2

   *Why did the screw break? Defective?Agree with Gary. The screw puller I think he's talking about is reverse threaded, so it tightens as you remove the screw fragment. A decent hardware store should have one.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 02, 1999 08:24pm | #3

   *You probably have threads in both pieces of wood. In situations like this it is best to drill a large enough pilot hole through the first piece so that the bolt is free to suck up the joint.I assume this was a 1/4" lag, so the EZ out will be difficult to do. Try a plug cutter slightly larger than the bolt. Carefully drill around where it is broken. Then try needle nose vice grips once you have enough to get a hold of. Use a small bit and drill around the bolt, in the first piece, until the joint comes apart. Then remove the broken bolt with vice grips.

2. 
   Chad_Sutter | Mar 03, 1999 01:32am | #4

   *
   I would second the drill around it method. If you've got the space around the lag bolt, take it out and fill the hole with a tightly fit glued in place plug. You can drill a pilot hole for a new lag and start over after the glue has set & cured. This should be every bit as strong as the original wood if done properly.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 03, 1999 02:29am | #5

   *
   Jeff the best way we have found is to use a small hole saw. Place the drill bit part of the hole saw next to the lag screw and drill away. Then use a awl or screw driver to remove the materical from around the broken lag. Now you should be able to remove the lag. Replace with a glued dowel and try again. Word of warning about this is remember that a 1/2" hole saw is a inside measurement. You have to adjust the dowel(rasp,handplane ect ect) to fit the outside of the hole saw. We use this alot on broken hinge screws on doors

4. 
   Jeff_Branch | Mar 03, 1999 05:27am | #6

   *
   Thanks for the reply - I'll try your suggestion. The only problem is I had to drill about an inch into the newel post, then pre-drill for the lag bolt. The tip of the broken bolt is probably 3/4" deep into the 3 1/2" square newel post. I'm not sure I can get a hole cutter that will cut that deep. I will be painting the newel post, so I can repair and damage caused by removing the bolt.

5. 
   Guest_ | Mar 03, 1999 08:10am | #7

   *
   Jeff had some those deep holes. As long as the broken lag is somewhere in the hole saw everthing alright. If you need to go deeper remove wood with the awl and keep drilling till the lag hits the top. I found some 2 1/2" hole saws at my local HD

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 04, 1999 08:46am | #9

   *Jeff, what is the other end of the rail attached to? if possible undo the other end and unscrew the handrail from the newel, then drive the lag out thru the countersink hole,remember to drill a clearance hole thru the newel post , but a pilot(smaller dia.) into the rail end, this will prevent the lag from becoming bound up in the newel again.Good luck Geoff

6. 
   Jeff_Branch | Mar 04, 1999 08:46am | #8

   *
   I am joining a oak stair rail to a newel post using a lag bolt. While tightening the lag bolt to pull the rail tight to the newel, the bolt broke and is buried about 1/4" in the oak and the joint is loose. I have to remove it and start over to pull the joint tight. Any ideas on how to remove this lag bolt?