Replies

1. 
   spindrift67 | May 25, 2009 06:50pm | #1

   I typically make the jamb size the same width as the door or doors added together. I don't try to add more width to compensate for the reveals, it just complicates things and is unnessary. So make it 36" for two 18" doors. The jamb can be bought off the shelf or I make them out of clear v.g. doug fir but anything stable is fine if it's paint grade. I make them with the head overlap the sides and a butt joint or a rabbet is just a personal thing.

1. 
   frosty1 | May 25, 2009 06:55pm | #2

   Sorry, I should have asked earlier...do I need to add any length to the jambs in case the floor is out of level?

1. 
   DanH | May 25, 2009 07:03pm | #3

   Depends how far out of level, and how much more buildup will result when the finished floor is installed. And, of course, what your tolerance is for gaps at the bottom.Keep in mind that if over masonry you'll want to hold the bottom edge of the jamb off the floor 1/8" or so, even if no further floor covering will be added.
   As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

2. 
   DavidxDoud | May 25, 2009 07:03pm | #4

   the head has to be level for the doors to hang/work properly - if the floor is out of level, the jambs need to be of appropriate length so the head is level - so - check the floor before you start - "there's enough for everyone"

3. 
   VinceCarbone | May 25, 2009 07:05pm | #5

   I always make the jamb width 1/4 bigger on double doors ,in my opinion you need room for the hinges on both doors (1/16 on each door) and an 1/8 for the center so the door will open and close.

   If not, you'll end up trimming the doors to operate.You should also check to see if the doors have a bevel.

   edited to add

   you should check to see if the doors are in fact 18"  they could be 17 7/8" in which case you could make the jamb 36"

      Vince Carbone

   Riverside Builders

   Franklin,NY

   Edited 5/25/2009 12:11 pm ET by VinceCarbone

1. 
   frosty1 | May 25, 2009 07:27pm | #7

   Vince, I do believe the doors are beveled (I'm not at the house right now).  If they aren't should I bevel them even if I have the 1/4" added in the jamb width?

1. 
   VinceCarbone | May 25, 2009 07:30pm | #8

   I don't think you'd need to bevel them with the 1/4" added to the width.   Vince Carbone

   Riverside Builders

   Franklin,NY

2. 
   macbuz | May 25, 2009 07:14pm | #6

   ^^^^^

   What Vince said.

   Sig #1: If two people are exactly alike, then one of them isn't necessary.

   Sig #2: Never argue with an idiot. They will drag you to their level and beat you with experience.

3. 
   mathewson | May 26, 2009 03:39am | #9

   One of the things I do to insure that the hinges line up is to use a story pole.

   Using a piece of scrap the height of the door mark out hinge placement, then at the top of the story pole glue on a piece of material the such that the thickness is the same as the reveal when hung. Have this piece of scrap overhang on a couple of sides.

   Hook the pole over the top of the door to mark out the doors and but up against the jamb header when marking out the jamb. This will automatically give the correct gap at the header

   attached are some pics and a sketchup drawing.

   
4. 
   mathewson | May 26, 2009 03:48am | #10

   The more narrow the door the greater the need for a bevel. Wether you use a saw or a power plane it is nice to remove the tool marks before finish is applied with hand plane. Generally one pass will do the job.

   
1. 
   frosty1 | May 27, 2009 03:17pm | #11

   Whoever said it is right - a picture is worth a thousand words.  Thanks for the pointers and I certainly appreciate the photos.  Many years ago I remember an older uncle of mine using story poles for everything (he was a finish carpenter in NYC).  I never thought of using one for the jamb/door unit.  Thank you and P.S.  Does the material used for the stop need to be anything specific?

1. 
   mathewson | May 28, 2009 04:58am | #13

   Frosty,I use anything handy for the reveal gap spacer. These tend to be throw away items.

5. 
   doorboy | May 27, 2009 07:31pm | #12

   Hopefully, those louvered doors are NOT beveled. If they are, then the factory has predetermined which side will be the 'privacy' side, and that may or may not work in your application. Of course I'm only referring to flat-slat louvers here. (an assumption on my part)
   Beveling the hinge edge will reduce the possibility of binding. Beveling the lock edge will reduce the possibility of the two doors hitting each other when opening or closing. But for a linen closet, I would think that a slightly larger gap would be appropriate.