Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 23, 2008 12:17am | #1

   Click here for a VERY easy way.

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=108631.1

   You can modify dimensions, or materials, or anything..no copeing, all mitered.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4

    

   The world of people goes up and
   

   down and people go up and down with
   

   their world; warriors have no business
   

   following the ups and downs of their
   

   fellow men.
1. 
   spiceyone | Sep 23, 2008 06:05am | #2

   Thanks, But these doors are big, 53" wide by 115" tall. Cedar t&g panel on bottom, 12 light glass on top. Clear cedar.

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 23, 2008 02:32pm | #3

   Just bump up the sizes.  That muntin was for a sash that was 40" wide by 60" tall.  Muntins and mullions stay the same pretty much no matter what size the door..it's the glass size that changes. Same job has 21 lite 3/0x8/0 doors..same muntin size.

   Old single pane glass muntins rarely were wider than 1" total, newer insulated glass are wider to conceal the spacer width.

   Match anything existing nearby, or feel free to experiment. The problem you have with stock cutters is THICKNESS , doors are 1 3/4, and many router bits are for cab.furniture with 3/4" doors.

   Windows vary..1 1/4, 1 5/16, 1 3/8..they include spacers in some sets.

   My way is way easier.  You can use a routered ogee profile, or flat tapered stops..beaded stops, whatever ya want, the OA size of the door is immaterial.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4

    

   The world of people goes up and

   down and people go up and down with

   their world; warriors have no business

   following the ups and downs of their

   fellow men.

1. 
   Petey | Sep 23, 2008 03:44pm | #4

   I guess my issue is that you route the muntins into the stiles and rails, correct? If it is not painted you will see that.Just another homeowner...

    

    

1. 
   Sphere | Sep 24, 2008 01:42am | #5

   No, before the actual profiles are attached, the "Base" muntin/mullion are just 1/4" thick slats (if you will) by whatever thickness the frame stiles and rails are.

   If you tennon them slats, they appear as just a butt joint, then when you apply the glass stops inside and out ( which are mitered) the "base" stick is basically invisible where it meets the rails, being as it is only 1/4" wide. Or what ever thickness you choose, I am matching Old work so 1/4" it is.

   Traditional cope and stick muntins are STILL tennoned into the frame, they just all have to be coped and on a router table set up, that tennon is awfully short..I still make traditional sash, but I through tennon and wedge the muntins, and hand cope the sticking..uugghh.

   You can make the whole works out of clear cedar, jus pick a glass stop profile you like, they can be the same inside and out, but bevelled on the outside ( like putty would be) sheds water better and looks more authentic.

   Use stainless steel pins on everything, glue the stop on one side only, use a clear caulk( NOT silicone) such as Geocel or one of the acrylics that goes on white and dries clear, on the removeable stops ( which actually in your case can be on the inside, so water tight is not so much of an issue, make the ext. stops permanent).

   It's so simple I should have been doing yrs ago. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

    

   They kill Prophets, for Profits.

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4

    

   The world of people goes up and

   down and people go up and down with

   their world; warriors have no business

   following the ups and downs of their

   fellow men.