I don’t do laminate every day, but when I do it I want it to last. MDF top with strips of 3/4 cdx on all edges and all cabinet joints. I screw ( and glue) the MDF to the cdx from the top and fill holes with bondo. The whole piece , weather done on site or in the shop is attached from the bottom for easy removal at remodel time. My question, I know some use staples. Is this acceptable? Doesen’t seem like it’d draw the pieces together, although I’m sick of breaking screws. It would be nice to speed up the process but I don’t want to sacrifice quality. Thanks, Mike
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Breaking screws?
Any chance they are drywall screws?
Better known as piffin screws around these parts.
Drywall screws brittle.
Break when you least want it.
Try a better screw.
No kiddin'
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
I used to screw industrial flake together.
Staple and glue now, no change in the quality or lasting bond.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Glue and nails or staples -- air gun the fastest.
Why cdx? Scraps of MDF would do just as well.
I use laminate screws. Used cdx on the bottom because I thought the screws up from the cabs would hold better in the ply than mdf. I'll try mdf top and bottom next time. What kind of staples/gun.
Use 1-1/4" long narrow crown (about 1/4" crown width) staples. Lots of guys like the Senco SKS gun, I think that is the name. I have a Bostich, the last generation with the plastic body, and it works well for me, but the big Senco has more power.Bill
Any need to use filler over the indentation of the staple?
Nope.
No need to fill staple indentations. They are on the bottom of the built up edge.
Be sure to hold them back far enough from the front edge to keep them away from the laminate triming bit.
Dave
What are laminate screws?Re: <<"What kind of staples/gun">>Any pneumatic nail will do; staples probably better, but 1 1/4" nails ok too -- since the fasteners are just holding the piece in place till the glue dries. Before nail guns, I used plain old drywall screws -- but did a pilot hole/countersink.
if you decide to use screws sometime, either for extra strength for an overhanging bar or if you don't want to get out your compressor, try pocket hole screws by kreg (1-1/4", #8 coarse thread #2 square drive) sml-c125.
they are self-tapping & i can't ever remember breaking one. i like them for attaching countertops, they stay on the bit and run in easily.