I have a customer that wants to have butcher block counters, i.e., Boos Block. I understand that Boos will not warranty the product if used around the sink. I also understand that folks use them in this fashion anyway. Now for the questions:
1) what is the best sink style to use, undermount or top mount?
2) If undermount, what is the best may to protect the end grain? I was thinking about a layer of epoxy, any suggestions on a clear epoxy?
Thanks,
Eric
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Replies
Unless it were a bar sink....or maybe a less often used vegetable sink, I'd really try and talk the homeowners out of it. There's a good reason the manufacturer won't warrentee such installation.
If they can't be talked out of it, at least use a drop in sink.
An undermount will only help to encourage the issues sure to arise.
Or.....you could laminate it. ; )
Democrats.
The other white meat.
I have done ( stopping to count -----)
six of them.
You have the right idea. Epoxy to seal.
Either top or under if sealed well -no make that seven
For undermounts I like to dado up in from bottom about half thickness and use a roundover bit on top.
No, counting nine, ten including a couple bathroom vanity tops and one kitchen sink where I made it from Ash and shaped a drainbaord carved into it leading to undermount.
Just use the epoxy liberally. Anticipate some wood movement.
Educate customers. The ones where I have seen any problem at all is where they chose to use oil finish only and theen instead of any kind of drain board, the laid down a towel, stacked dishes to drain into it and left them there for days - regularly
counting up to thirteen including some that were already in for a century and I just refinished them is all.
I'm sure I forgot some....
Just be sure the HO knows to dry it when it gets wet. OK to spil some water on, just don't leave it there.
Then once it is all in and finished, you can use some Butchers wax on that edge too if you like. I don't consider that necessary, but some guys think it is a nice touch - do it in front of the HO, and make them a presnetation of the can.
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under the educating the customers part I hope you tell them that because there is an epoxy finish on the top that it should not be used for a cutting board.unless they prefer Paul Piffins epoxy vinagrette on thier salad...I don't Know what I am doing
But
I am VERY good at it!!
So if I understand you guys correctly, you are recommending that the entire counter be sealed with epoxy, not just the exposed edges in the undermount sink application. I think that the HO was thinking that they could simply use mineral oil monthly on the top and off they go. If this is not the case, then I will have to manage their expectations.Thanks,
Eric
I would seal the cut edge for undermount, and a generous area on the underside around the cut out, with epoxy (west system or similar). Personally, I wouldn't use it on the top surface, unless the client will always use cutting boards on the counter, and wants the butcher block to remain looking *pristine*.
I don't really see the point of using a non-foodsafe coating on butcher block. Butcher block is a wonderful work surface, and it gets a great patina from use, as long as the owner can accept the non-newness of it. I would use mineral oil and paraffin mixed together as a finish, or the Boos oil made for the purpose. Reapplied often!zak
"When we build, let us think that we build forever. Let it not be for present delight nor for present use alone." --John Ruskin
"so it goes"
I think Mr T misunderstood there. The epxy is to seal the endgrain at the cut hole only. I don't see it as appropriate for the whole thing. I do carefully educate them before the fact that if they only want the oil rub finish like you mention, they WILL have some more movement and probably some raised grain in the wood. Salad bowl finsh will build a film eventually that protects like polyurethene, but we are talking 8-10 coats to get the same protection as three coats of poly.But most of my customers who want the wood BB tops do it for the "olde" look so they do not want the sheen of poly.Then a few years later, they wonder why it looks so old and ask for it to be refinished...Boos is the best company to buy from, unless you have a local with great reputation.
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I don't use epoxy on the top, just on the undersiode and the cut end grain where the hole is. The end grain absorbs far more water than lateral grain does. The rest gets finished normally with Boos oil, polyurethene, or slad bowl finish
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First, I would do everything possible to talk the HO out of this plan (including invoking the tail light warranty)
If they absolutely insist (and absolve you from any liability, past, present and future), you could probably use either an undermount or a self rimming overmount sink. Personally, I think the undermount would be best since the water damage that will occur will be on the bottom of the countertop where (hopefully), water will probably drain away a little better.