Replies

1. 
   bobl | Jan 22, 2003 04:19pm | #1

   Just square edged rectangular doors?

   bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

1. 
   steve321 | Jan 22, 2003 09:18pm | #5

   The answer to your question is yes. 

2. 
   Turtleneck | Jan 22, 2003 04:33pm | #2

   If she's going to paint, MDF is an excellent choice, I like to round off the face edges with a ¼" radius bit. European hardware is the best for MDF but you could use 5/8" MDF if you are planning to use traditional face mount hinges. MDF doesn't take screws very well unless you pre-drill. If you plan to use plywood, I would recommend you either edgetape or cover the open edges with a small trim. Make it yourself or check with a custom moulding company in your area, there are some pretty neat edge mouldings that can really dress up a plain door. If you can keep the material flat (not leaned up against a wall for a few days) and avoid damp area or temperature changes. Seal the doors within a reasonable time after fabricating, to avoid badly warped doors. Slight twisting is inevitable unless you are very lucky. The advantage of European hardware is the incredible amount of adjustment, left/right, in/out which can make slightly twisted doors appear straight.

   ( your logo here) Turtleneck

1. 
   jimblodgett | Jan 22, 2003 06:10pm | #3

   3/4" plywood doors with a 3/8" rabbet was common in low end cabinets in the 60s and 70s.  I'd use at least 9 ply, if not 3/4" Appleply, if I did that today. 

   MDF is more stable and a better paint substrate than plywood, but the edges are more susceptible to dents and dings.  High density MDF might work okay, but I still think plywood would stand up better in the long run.

1. 
   steve321 | Jan 22, 2003 09:28pm | #6

   Thanks for all the replys. Does the european hinges work well in MDF..The wooden cabinets are frameless.  She want full extending hinges.  The old ones have those pin hindges. All suggestions welcomed. 

2. 
   gsark | Jan 22, 2003 09:00pm | #4

   MDF is used all the time as cabinet door wood, often with a melamine back. So you paint the front and the back dosen't need any work.

   Or get two sided melamine and iron-on edge banding and you're done.

   Problem with painting MDF is that the edge is very thirsty and unless primed two or three times, looks bad.

   Finally, consider paint grade particle board, which is particle board with a paper surface so that it paints decently. You still need to cover up the edges,usually with edge banding, but they can be painted if you take the trouble to fill and prime. ---geoff

3. 
   TomT226 | Jan 22, 2003 09:41pm | #7

   Steve,

   I'm making a bunch of these right now. Use paint grade (D-2) 3/4" maple ply with either poplar or soft maple 1/4" thick edge banding. Flush trim it to the ply, put a 3/16" edge on it, sand it flush, fill any dings, prime and paint. Seems like a lot, but in my opinion, it makes better slab doors than MDF. I've never had any warping or twisting with this ply.

   Use a better grade ply(B or C-2), and you can make great looking euro-style doors with same species or contrasting edge banding.

1. 
   joeh | Jan 22, 2003 09:54pm | #8

   Baltic Birch ply.

   Joe H

4. 
   noone51 | Jan 22, 2003 10:52pm | #9

   My personal preference is either maple or birch ply D-2 is paint grade, (often referred to as shop 2), and realtively inexpensive. However, I do make a lot of cabinets out of double sided melamine, (primarily office applications).  It comes in a variety of colors now and might just eliminate the customers need to paint.

1. 
   steve321 | Jan 23, 2003 07:16am | #10

   I'm going to go the the lumber store tomorrow and check out the different products.  The big box made me gag.  Thanks, again.