Hey all,
I am building a component that has will be placed in a corner to be a sort of built in but one end will be exposed. Over all height of the lower and upper is 8′. my question is how should the exposed side be scribed to the wall to give it the “built in ” look desired. It is a rather large upper being 36″ wide, 61″ high and 12″ deep. the base is a 36″ wide, 35″ high, and 24″ wide. I was looking for a way other than having to set the pieces in place scribe the sides and then take them down and cut or hand plane the two of them. Any suggestions or ideas of what else i could do? thanks.
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I like to design around 3/4" carcase sides, butted together like kitchen cabinets.
I use my Zentrix to drill for Confirmat screws -- fat, blunt, almost dowel-like, they have a lot of shear resistance for the shelves.
The 70 mm ones draw things together better than the 50 mm ones.
Big, fat heads, so the outside of my carcases are ugly, and need end panels.
With this design, there's 1 1/2" of ply to cover where cabinets meet, and a 1 5/8"-1 3/4" face frame works perfectly.
So I use 3/4" end panels as well, and everything works out evenly.
Install your carcase(s) plumb and level, then see how big your end panels have to be to cover up the shim space.
Cut them oversize, scribe to the wall until you like the fit, then mark the front edge for a simple, straight cut.
This system works well: worry about plumb, level, and solid first, then achieve a nice fit with end panels and face frames.
AitchKay
The fit might not be as good, but you could set up and plumb a strip of 1/8" or 1/4" lauan plywood perpendicular to the wall, scribe it to the wall, cut it and use it as a template on the cabinetry. This is similar to how granite countertops are templated.
You do run some risk on the fit, but if you're not willing to scribe in place, so be it.
Jeff
jeff,
i thought about doing that. i thought i read something about a scribe strip being added to help conceal the gaps but i can't seem to find anything on the method. has anyone heard of possibly putting some type of molding along that edge. I guess it wouldn't carry very well along the top and look decent. i guess if I can't come up with anything I will use the above method or trim on site somehow. thanks for the suggestion.
Could you make a template out of cardboard or something like it and scribe it, then transfer the scribe lines to the real thing?
Is the box already built? If not, I like to add ~1/2-3/4" to the exposed side. The extra material is run proud of the back of the box. Before assembling the case, put a bevel on that back edge so the sharp edge sits against the wall. Scribe that as usual. Trimming to the scribe line with a sander is a snap on the tapered edge. I can usually get the fit perfect the first time.
i like the idea of having a little extra material and bevel to scribe with. I might be able to create a template as well and get even closer to the end result. thanks for the help and suggestions.
If you're going for a skinny, Euro look, go with RedfordHenry's built-in scribe allowance. But if you're going for a more traditional look, or if you just want to make the job as easy as possible, go with a separate endpanel, as I suggested. Given the overall size of the unit you describe, I'd say you'd be better off with the additional visual mass, anyway.Are you going for a super-skinny look?AitchKay
i must have missed that in the first post. i would have to change my original face frame but that is minimal. back to the drawing board, thanks.
Well, there's a lot to be said for keeping what you've already made, so I'd say don't trash your face frame! The extended side-panel can work fine, too.With a large carcase, moving it is a hassle, but you can mark it, slide it out just a couple of feet, and have at it with a belt sander. No problem, as long as you've addressed the cleanup issues.Good luck!AitchKay
The other way to do it (but not at all as nice a visual effect) is to plan to 'skin' the end, leaving a 1/4" face-frame projection. Scribe your 1/4" end panel to the wall, then set cabinets in place and glue on the end panel.
Jeff
Instead of putting the pieces in place to do the scribing, make a false-end piece that matches the dimensions and angles of the finished piece.
Make your scribing marks on that piece, and transfer the marks to the final pieces.