Here is the scoop. I want to hang a plasma on a interior partition wall. I know this wall has been cut/patched so it’s not a full solid sheet. In addition, I know that in the area where the plasma screen would be hung, the 3 metal studs are cut about 2 feet right in the middle of these studs …..plentee of flex conduit is routed in the cutout.
Do you think I can hang this 150lbish plasma on my drywall if I am able to hit one stud with a screws and the other side with toggle anchor ?
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Replies
Sounds dicey at best. What about taking a section of plywood slightly smaller than your plasma and screwing it to all the studs (you'll be able to find them and hit them all this way) then plug the holes, paint, and have a viable mounting surface for the weight. Going directly into the stud is the only way to go though. Toggles have their place but not the one you describe.
After rereading....I'm definately leaning on not hanging this UNTIL the the studs are readressed.The 3 studs in the wall location is cut 2 feet WHOLE in the wall.
So it's not truely runnning from top 2 bottom plate.
So it's not truely runnning from top 2 bottom plate.
If your studs are not running top to bottom then theres no way that I'd hang a plasma to whatever it is that you have behind the rock.
I've hung a few of these and I've always put ply in between the studs for added strength.
Doug
Locate the stud that is available. Hold up the mounting bracket so that the screw holes on one side match the stud. Where the remaining holes line up without a stud, you are going to install a stud.
Just cut a hole big enough to insert a 2 X 4 or 2 X 6. Cut the hole with the blade held 45 degrees. This tapered cutout can be easily placed back with drywall mud. Stick the 2X (the longer, the better)in the hole flatwise with glue all over it. Align it so the remaining bracket hole line up. Use drywall screws to pull the wood tight for gluing on the backside of the drywall. Before you mount the bracket, leave a hole to run wires down the wall.
I don't think that plasma's are ever hung on a wall.
I think that they set on the floor.
http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowledge/articles/content/plasma.asp
Alight guys. U have been warned.
Frankenstein Octopus Wall Opened.
See the lovely framing - ugh.
View Image
Dang, man, just leave that wall open and watch all that action, instead of the TV ! ! !
Greg
I wouldnt hang a 5 oz. picture on that wall!
Better set the TV on a stand somewhere else.
Doug
you do that...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
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hi HighFigh - I prefer chief mounts in general. I used a couple of Sanus back in the days and didn't like them.....so I stopped checking out their products. The one I'm planning to use is their PLP wall mount - tilt....still debating now on models since Toshiba and Sharp have new ones possibly coming out in October.
Don't ask my why's it's framed the way it is. Here is the kicker. On the backside, it's all nice and finished with wallcovering and there may be tentative plans to have a tv on that side of the wall as well.
Isn't there some sort of *acceptable* if not MINIMUM way to frame a interior wall by code ? I would think they would/should have used a thicker wall if they needed to run conduit INTO the knockouts on the steel studs REGARDLESS of whether or not a tv/blocking/bracing etc would have been required. I mean it's a commercial job, union job, union building, all permitted, etc. .......I am now working to confirm but the drawings reflect proper blocking. Ugh..
Edited 9/21/2006 8:56 am ET by chefwong
Well, it doesn't look like you can rely on the studs for strength. How about using something like 8" wide by 8' strips of 3/4" plywood placed vertically just behind the sheetrock (and flat against it, and touching the floor)? In effect, you'd be re-inforcing the sheetrock. It looks like there would be room for all the cabling as well even if you did it on both sides. If there were two of them, that would only be 75 pounds for each to support, and my guess is they would hold a lot more than that. You can easily test by hanging on the mount yourself.
Edited 9/21/2006 9:50 am ET by mikeingp
"I mean it's a commercial job, union job, union building, all permitted, etc. ......."Doesn't mean it was built right. I don't suppose you picked the mount yet, did you? If you get one that will cover three studs, you can cut a hole in the drywall that's the same size/shape as the back plate, cut a piece of plywood to the same shape and attach it to the studs with expanding anchors. The back of the anchor will pull the stud flange into the back of the plywood and with three anchors into all three studs, you can lag/toggle bolt the mount into the plywood. If you can make the plywood higher than the mount, it'll ultimately add rigidity by resisting bowing in the studs.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
That was my original plan of attack HF . But where the ply lands, the studs are cut and I don't think it is sufficient at all , unless they either build out the wall or do the same suggestion that u noted but that ply not only needs to hit the top and bottoms of the cut studs but the flange part of the top and bottom plate.I would not feel comfortable doing it otherwise...
Thank goodness I have a pic of this wall opened. Everything is on standby and guess what...the contractors closed up the wall as well.
Why not close up the wall, and have a welder fab some kind of high stand that you can bolt to the concrete floor, run all your wires and then drywall over.
This may have already been suggested but what about building a shallow shelf/short wall (DWed and painted to match the room) beneath the plasma to carry the weight and a few anchors into the wall to prevent it from tipping out?
How about you sheathe the entire wall (floor to ceiling) with 3/4" ply directly on the studs, then cover the ply with drywall? That ought to restore some of the strength that was lost, and also provide you something to anchor to in the wall.After that, hang the mount on Wingits through the plywood!Bill
Here's a site to check out for mounts.
http://store.videomountstore.com/
I'm fitting one into an office in a couple of weeks and we are going to use the ceiling mount on a downrod.
That wall is too iffy to even think about attaching more than a pin-up calendar and it would be problematic to consider placing a sheet of ply on the wall because you will still have insufficient support.
Open the ceiling and look for a mounting spot or block something out yourself.
what would be the 'acceptable' maximum amount of weight to wall hang a tv without reinforcing the wall?
For fixed mount?
For swivel mount?
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It isn't the framing that scares me...That's a Franktopuss
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Wel...it looks like I can't bump it out 3/4" --- ceiling panels.So the GC PM has suggested that he will lay a large heavy gauge metal sheet across the studs as well as put horizontal blocking on the studs to give it some reinforcement. I dunno what the thickness is, but I assume heavy gauge has got to be around 1/8 +++ ?????I dunno how well this will play out BUT it's in writing that if this sucka falls down or if it starts to sag/bow....it's all on him.
Plasma is what leaks out of ya when ya get a bad cut...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
What you have there is one big mess. Cover it back up and put the screen somewhere else. Or, maybe you could install 2 x 4 studs over the existing metal studs and then simply apply blocking where needed, cover with sheetrock and hang the Plasma on the second wall leaving the exposed metal stud wall behind it. Some minor work in the ends and no one would know the difference, just an extra thick wall.
Our new Plasma set sould arrive on Saturday, we had originally wanted to wall mount it, but needed and articulated swivel mount to position the set where we wanted (and to avoid a fireplace). The set weighs about the same as yours: the required wall-mounts cost roughly $700 and up, and, we would have had to reiforce the wall (replace the drywall with 5/8" ply down to the floor and add 2 cross-supports) to hold it up. We decided to go for a corner stand instead.
They told us even the little 42" and 50" sets often need reinforced walls.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Never use the drywall as the main support. Why are the 3 metal studs cut and how are they cut? What kind of mount are you using? If you don't have one, Sanus makes good ones. Peerless are OK but there's more putzing around to get it assambled. Are you using a static mount or is it a moveable arm? If it's an arm, you need to make the wall a lot stronger since the weight will be away from the wall surface.
The last time I installed an arm type mount with a plasma on a metal stud wall, it was a big Chief mount and we cut the drywall out, about 2-1/2" higher than the mounting plate, half way across the outer of three studs so the piece could be screwed back onto the wall. When the drywall was removed, I cut some pieces of 2x4 the same length as the distance between each pair of studs, then screwed them into the studs with drywall screws. Did the same thing with the other stud space and screwed the drywall back on and used lag bolts to hang the mount. The guy I was working with weighs about 235# and he extended the arm, then hung from it.
Add the weight of the plasma and the mount together, then decide on how you need to strengthen the wall.