I am building a house (for myself) and have been interested in using the fluorescent lights made for can lighting. I always thought that you could use the new bulbs in a regular can light. However, while looking through a catelog for Home Depot, I take note that there is a 6″ compact fluorescent can that retails for $66, while the plain old everyday can retails at $15.
So my question to the pros is: Is there any need to upgrade to the “specialty can”? Is it better? At least with a rugular can, you can switch between bulb types. Is that possible with the specialty can?
Thanks for your insight.
Greg
Replies
The fluorescent can has a socket that'll take only a pin-based fluorescent lamp. Some states, like California, have energy-efficiency laws that require fluorescent-only fixtures in certain rooms. So that's why the fluorescent cans won't accept regular screw-based lamps.
If you want the option of using CFL lamps with Edison (screw type) bases, or using A-lamps (regular lightbulbs) or reflector lamps, the standard cans with the screw sockets are fine. Although I've heard that some of the screw-base CFL lamps are labelled that the screw base has to be down--probably due to how the lamp is designed to dissipate heat from the lamp and ballast.
Cliff
I don't know if you have heard of these.But EFI sells a number of unusal products.Included retrofit can guts with dimable ballast.http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050_25_174_510Might get a client out of a tight spot.And track light heads.http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050_25_174_833I wonder what the code people will say about those. The FIXTURE will only take a CFL (pin type). But the fixture can easily be replaced.They have a number of screw in reflector bulbs. http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050_25_44_171And some are dimmable and some are rated for high temps.Also 3 way.http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050_25_44_170And other dimmable bulbs.http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050_25_44_169This the starting point for Lighting.http://www.energyfederation.org/consumer/default.php/cPath/2050They also have a wholesale division.http://www.efi.org/wholesale/index.html.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Might you sell the house sometime? If you install screw based cans in an area that requires pin-type fluorescents, a home inspector could force you to change them out during escrow.
I'm not talking about pin type fluorescent. The bulbs I have been looking at are the twisted fluorescents enclosed by a more typical looking glass bulb that screw into a regular socket and are supposed to be more energy efficient replacements to the regular incandescent bulbs.
I know that you weren't talking about pin-type fluorescents. I posted the comment to make you aware of possible future problem with installing standard cans with screw type fluorescents.
BruceT
I've done a kitchen with (20) CF Par30 floods in normal cans - on three circuits. Client is really happy with them; is not bothered by the half-brightness for the first few seconds.
Client I'm working with now says NO WAY she likes that delay, or the nasty blue color - so we're putting in (10) upwash sconces to "glow" the ceiling
Forrest
I was reading on some of the fluorescent lights that they were even able to be dimmed. But again, these were the lights and not the cans. So the question still remains whether there is an advantage to using a can that is marketed as a can specificanlly for fluorescent lights.
The cans designed for pin fluorescents have built-in ballasts, and that's why they cost more. You can use the screw-in CFL bulbs in a regular light can, but the heat build up will usually shorten the life of the bulb considerably.
There is a circuit board in the base of the CFL bulbs that has an electronic ballast. Components on that board don't like to get too hot.
Thank you!
I had not heard of a heat problem with the reflector-type fluorescent bulbs; just assumed that at low wattage they would run cool. Since incandescent reflector bulbs run hotter in cans, shortening their life, is it still cost effective to replace with CFL's?BruceT
Are CFLs cost effective if they last 1/2 as long as claimed? Depends on what they cost. Size and design also plays a role in heat buildup in the cans. I put 13W CFLs in 5" non-IC fixtures and they seem to do OK. I tried 23W CFL bulbs in 6" IC cans and they started failing after a year. My guess is the IC cans trap heat better and get hotter.A 13W CFL bulb can replace a 60W filament, but that filament bulb doesn't care if its -40F or 500F. I doubt many CFL bulbs will work at temperatures over 300F, and their life is shortened above 200F.
So, is the 64KL question this? If CFL bulbs tend to have shorter life in a regular can, would a can specially made for CFL bulbs ALSO be used with incandescent bulbs if the homeowner - read wife - decides she does not like the color of the light? If not, the shortened bulb life might be a reasonable trade off since both bulb types can be used.
I called my client with the (20) CF floods in normal 6" cans; she doesn't believe she's changed any bulbs in the three years since the job - and with 4 girls, you know they spend some time in the kitchen / family room!
OTOH, my kitchen, with (16) PAR30 floods in the same cans, probably blows a couple bulbs a month - we just like the incandescent "color".
Forrest
Thanks for the followup. I'm sure others will find your client's experience "illuminating" as I did.BruceT
I was going to post that link to EFI but Hartmann took care of that. If your concerned about efficiency, look at the AirSeal can's in this link. For a ceiling between floors, they are not necessary but if the ceiling goes to uninsulated space then you would want them. Can's are one of the worst leaks in houses. If you look at the regular can's, you can see all the areas where heat leaks out.
I'm in Massachusetts and the regular can's are about $12 each with the trim kits extra, you have options there so price varies a bit but they are not much. The AirSeals are about $25 and take the same trim.
http://www.lightolier.com/index.jsp?CATREL_ID=2072&CAT_ID=1030&BLK=N&CAT_NAME=Incandescent+Frame-In+Kits&PARREL_ID=2068&A=254&B=363&C=365