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Inside corners or outside corners?
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Both Inside And Out
65 Squares Time life mag Dream House
Yes.
First one side, then the other.
reverse order on the next course
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Found these, but no help for weaving.
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?p=1120456
http://www.coastalcontractor.net/cgi-bin/article.pl?id=135
SamT
Get friendly with your block plane. Rig up a trash can with a scrap of 2x10 (or so) clamped flatwise across the top of the can. Use the 2x10 for a planing bench and let the shavings fall into the can, otherwise your shavings will be blowing all over the neighborhood.
Or a lami trimmer with a flush bit. Then the shavings are so small it dont matter
Been at it all day....scribing, cutting , planeing, wondering if there is a more modern
approach. MANY MANY MANY more corners in the weeks to come.
With rough shakes, I get really close to the scribed line with a jig saw cradled upside down in my arm. I can often get it good enough with just the jig saw, but sometimes have to clean it up with a block plane or utility knife.
With sawn shingles I get close to the line with a utility knife and clean up with a quick swipe from the block plane.
Block plane needs to be sharp.
Try the laminate trimmer idea. I did, and didn't like it, but it's worth a try. Lots of guys swear by it.
Somebody, Mike Guertin maybe, wrote an article recently on pre-assembling the corners with straight tapers instead of scribed curves. He attaches his corners first, then infills the rest. Again, not for me, but nothing wrong with it either.
Hey I was trying to give him an excuse to buy another power tool.
Seems to me I've got it right. Tried & True. Scribe, Cut , Plane, Install..... SOOO many jogs.... Got Work????
Edited 9/26/2007 9:18 pm ET by Splurt
Hey I was trying to give him an excuse to buy another power tool.
Well, yeah, if he doesn't already have a laminate trimmer than that's definitely the method to use.
I mark the back side of the shingle with a heavy pencil line and then make the cut with a little (6") battery operated saw. I've heard about the block plane approach but haven't tried it yet (I only do shingles once in a while).
I've seen other people experimentally determine the angle that will be required at the corners and then pre-cut a whole bunch on a sliding miter saw. I can't say that the results were as good enough for me, but apparently it's good enough for some. If you played around with it, it might be an acceptable approach.
I have found that they actually end up with a slight curve. I wouldn't be happy with a miter saw cut either. The method that woked best for me was to scribe, cut with a small cordless saw close to the line, install and finish with a block plane.
as Agusta says that little 2 - 3 " curved headed surform is an invaluable tool
I was thinking about useing my 4" coping grinder with 36grit back to back.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
A spoke shave is fast, it can be set rather coarse for quick work.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Do they make an electric spoke shave? ;)You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
Just lop the end off the ext.cord and suck on it while spoke shaveing..that'll get it going.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I like that idea! I don't get to use my spokeshaves much anymore. Do you use a round-bottom or straight? I would think a straight would work fine....
I've got five. some are more like a chair scraper tho' real fine cutting, I'd problaby grab the flat bottom I have due too it's easier to advance the blade quickly with the thumb screws, vs. a single screw with cap on my curved bottom one. I carry a flat bottom in the van so it'd also be employed due to that. The others live in the shop.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Last week at the Common Ground Fair (Maine Organic Farmers and Growers Association), Lie Nielson had a booth I didn't see until we were on the way out...first thing I saw and grabbed was a beautiful wood-handled spokeshave...man it felt nice in my hands.
I lied, I have 7!
I'd use the black one or the green one........View Image
I made the Paduak one in the upper left and the rosewood one that is...ooops..missing from the pic! Dang, that is my favorite one too..must be in the drawer still. So I have 8. LOL
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Edited 9/27/2007 6:31 pm ET by Sphere
Cool, I've got that same green one I think. Never made my own though. The couple of planes I tried to make didn't come out so good.
Is that a Brian Boggs model on the bottom right? What's the story with the big guy in the middle?
The Boggs model is simialr, just a brass sole, and steep angle. I dunno where I got it. Making them is not that hard, just finding a good iron attaching method..and sole wear plates is tuff.
The big bastard I found at a yard sale in Pa. FAT iron, steel sole and really fine mouth, works well on gnarly woods ( I shape B-eye maple on guitar necks with shaves) and has some momentum to help avoide chatter or skip.
What am I saying? I love them all..lol. Each has a specific use or 'set' for what I am doing,I'll start out with one set rank and one fine, then switch to scrapeing after that..did I mention I hate sanding?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
I've done this one time. I think I saw Norm on "New Yankee" One day. He trimmed the corners on the wall, so thats what I did. I found a piece that was almost right, then planed it in place. Alternate on every course. Looked nice when we were finished.
The particular job was just a patch in so I didnt get to play with any inside corners.
I have a Shingle style house built in 1890. All the shingle corners have little metal corners nailed on. Most are still in good condition after over a 100 years. I recently replaced a section of shingles on the house. I used aluminum corners. I'm painting the shingles. The metal corners might not look right with stained shingles.
I scribe with a pencil and cut with a little Makita circular saw. Nail them on and finish the edge with a small Surform. I do carry a block plane up there but I only use it when the other one falls in the bushes and I'm too lazy to go down and get it. On that note, tie a rope to the saw body.....
cut close to line trim with 1/4" spiral flush trim bit. I use a porter cable battery operated router which is one less cord to deal with.
Corners turn out real nice. Inside corners I butt up to 5/4x5/4 trim.
Edited 9/27/2007 5:34 pm ET by arrowpov