Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 01:36am | #1

   *
   Mike, my experience with Thompsons is that it doesnt last at all. Articles I've read back this up though I can't remember which brands were the best performers (you might do some research). I would use the breathable black siding paper (not tarpaper) over the rosin paper (better protection against windblown rain methinks). I've seen people install siding shingles over cedar lath and straight to the sheathing. Someone else can probably answer better your airspace question. Good luck

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 09:02am | #2

   *MikeForget Thompsons, there seems to be ample evidence around that it doesn't perform. I install cedar sidewall shingles over tarpaper right onto ply sheathing, and I grew up in a 70 year old house and now live in a 50 year old house that were done the same way(except not ply sheathing). . . no need for back priming, no need for air space. The only cupping I've witnessed was on walls where the shingles weren't spaced properly.Have fun

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 17, 1999 09:35am | #3

   *Mike - over the past 25 years I have installed hundreds of squares of sidewall shingles, resawn red and blue labels, combed you name it. I have never seen, or heard of skip sheeting a wall. The shingles will breath fine as long as you gap them properly like Patrick suggested. I like to lay 16" shingles about 5" to the weather (depending on window and door heights) to get triple coverage. I am pretty sure there was a cover article in FHB a few years back about this. -yb

2. 
   Mike_Cougill | Apr 18, 1999 10:25am | #4

   *
   Thanks for the advice guys. The only reason i was going to use the Thompson's was to primarily perserve the cedar color for as long as possible. If Thompson's isn't any good for this, any suggestions on what would be?
   Mike C.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 18, 1999 07:51pm | #5

   *
   I like CWF by flood but it takes regular maintance like most of those products. - yb

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 24, 1999 10:07am | #6

   *I checked this stuff out -- it says not to use it until the wood has weathered a year?Consumer Reports is doing a deck treatment article next issue. They have already said that Thompson's bites (DESPITE all that advertising!). The clear sealants last the shortest about of time. Nothing wrong with gray shingles, but you definitely don't want the mildew look unprotected shingles get around here. Consider penetrating semitransparent (my favorite du jour) UV protection is key.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 26, 1999 07:52pm | #7

   *andrew d. One of the common myths in the building business is to let wood age before painting or staining it. According to protective coating specialists at Forest Products Laboratory (FPL) this is a no-no. The more aged the wood the less its holding power. GeneL.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 26, 1999 08:43pm | #8

   *I agree -- so why does Flood REQUIRE one year? I'm always happy to ignore manufacturer instructions (as I had to do installing a Kohler faucet yesterday -- who writes these things???) but am interested in warranty protection.Also -- you need to wait with pt (e.g., a deck) for the glaze to wear, n'est-ce pas? Have you used Kodiak or equivalent ACQ wood, which is KD and claims to be ready-to-finish?Gene, CR did an article this month on phthalates & other plasticizers in plastic chridren's teething rings and the like -- i know you're suspicious of PVC in potable water and thought you'd be interested.The FPL, is it gov't or manuf. supported? Independent?

4. 
   Mike_Cougill | Apr 26, 1999 08:44pm | #9

   *
   I plan to reside my house with cedar shingles over red rosin paper. Prior to installation I will dip the shingles in Thompson's wood protector. I've read about surfactants in cedar leaching out and compromising housewrap, however this doesn't seem applicable in my case as the shingles will be treated with the Thompson's. My question regards leaving an airspace behind sidewall shingles as is done on roofs to allow the backside of the shingles to dry. Is this overkill? If not how would you detail the skip sheathing or whatever around door and window openings? I neglected to mention the substrate is 7/16" OSB over 2x4s 16" o.c. This is the house my wife and I will retire in ,Iwant to do the job right the first time. Thanks for the help.