I’m an amature when it comes to general power tool knowledge so I apologize. I am starting to find myself tackling more and more renovation projects as a hobby I find that lately all I want in the world is a kick azz powertool.
I got myself a sweet dewalt 12″ cms and now I am going to get a 71/4″ sidewinder circ saw. I am pretty much settled on the sidewinder over the worm drive. I picked up a couple of the wormdrives and was like “who am I kidding”. Those things are friekin heavy and probably not necessary for my means.
I am leaning toward either a Porter Cable or a Bosch and I have to admit, I have no Idea whether to get a blade right or a blade left. Whats the difference?
I’m a righty if that matters.
Tell me what I need to know please, so I can get the right one.
Any other input is gratly appreciated
Thanks
Andrew
Replies
I prefer blade left. Of course, I'm right handed and I can see the front of the blade and/or the line guide.
The worm drive is for heavier duty cutting. It typically won't make a pretty cut in "finer" finishes due to the slower blade speed. That said, it will pretty much cut anything. I love 'em.
PC & Bosch both make blade left saws. Bosch has the pretty neat direct connect thing - not sure if PC does. Both good saws.
The direct connect is a good point to be brought up. I wonder how people have found this system.Thanks for the input.
One of my saws is the Bosch with the direct connect. I'd rather have the cord permanently attached. Or a better system like Milwaukee has with their tools.
crappy.
check the discount bin.
DCS Inc.
"Whaddya mean I hurt your feelings, I didn't know you had any feelings." Dave Mustaine
One of the more contentious issues here... ;)
I have a couple of blade right side winder saws (PC 325 Mag) and a blade left Skil 77 worm drive. The questions are typically which one gives you a better sight line on your work, vs which one keeps your hands more safely out of harm's way. Personally, I haven't found a night/day difference in what I'm more comfortable with but I'm a tad unusual, right handed but left eye is dominant (you oughta see me at the pistol range). One thing to consider is that one of "my" personal favorite tools (and one I'd strongly recommend you consider) is the Eurekazone SmartGuide (http://www.eurekazone.com) and it works much better with a rh blade. The PC 325 Mag is a great saw with a brake...
The most important thing is to be comfortable with your tool, get used to how it behaves and remember it can hurt you very badly in the blink of an eye.
PaulB
Right...so your saying that I've opened up one of those everyones right and noboby's wrong kind of debates in which ultimately I'm going to have to recognize that I will have to make a decision based on what I feel is right for me. : )By the way, that smatguide system sure looks cool. I'll take two of those give me six of those, oh waight, gotta have one of those...since I have few tools as it is, I could really get carried away in a jiffy.
I have a pair of PCs, one left, one right.
I prefer the left one for bench cutting. I'm right handed. I like to see the blade.
The PCs are nice saws. Light, smooth, durable, powerful. Good dust collection options. Negligible runout after a lot of use.
The biggest downside is that the magnesium plates are brittle, therefore somewhat fragile, and they cannot be unbent if dropped. I have never dropped either of mine, but I have seen damaged ones. Something to consider...
what is the right side for?
"what is the right side for?"
Good question.
Access. Sometimes you gotta get into a corner.
Of course, other times it's just good to have 2 different blade types at the ready.
the right handed saw is used for cutting lengths, held in right hand, saw does not bear weight upon the offcut. left bladed saw is for ripping and sheet goods.
Thanks everyone for taking time to respond, even though you have probably gone over this before. All the responces are very informative.
It's a regional thing.
If you're on the Left Coast, you probably use a blade left worm drive. The Skill 77 is the most seen saw around here.
If you're on the Right Coast, you probably use a blade right sidewinder.
Look at the FHB or JLC articles - guy in shorts, sneakers, 77 - Left Coast. Guy in pants, leafy trees, sidewinder - Right Coast.
@@@ Direct Conntect Bosch
Since my 77m got stolen in Jan., I have been using the direct connect. The 77 top handle is more comfortable. The Bosch allows me to change out cords to fit the situation. I carry a 25', 50' and 100' cord for it.
More better - on those rare days when things are Not Going Well and I now have a two piece cord, I can be up and running in a few minutes. Hopefully before anyone notices. With the 77 you are SOL until you open the saw and make a new connection - about 30 minutes. Then they notice. The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
A lot of people have both the right and left for doing cuts when you need a bevel, some times its a pain or not a good option to cut on the back side.
I personally like the blade on the left, as others have said, I like seeing the blade and it is MUCH easier with it on the left. I grew up using a circ with the blade on the right but once I got a blade on the left, the old circ only gets used for the bevel cuts.
One of the frequent posters on this site, dieselpig, is a framing and uses circs, and just about everything else everyday. I remember a few months ago that he said he had a direct connect bosch and hated it.
The bottom line is.... buy what feels comfortable to you and only you. Regardless of what coast you live on. What a crock of sh1t that West Coast/ East Coast thing is. Don't listen to a word of it. I frame on the East Coast and am just more comfortable with a wormdrive for framing which is how I make my living. They also hold up much better to the rigors of daily abuse that full time framing unleashes on circ saws.
What works best for me is the Dewalt framing saw. It's very much like a wormdrive. Blade left and in-line with a funny shape. Its the most ergonomically comfortable saw I've ever used. Unfortunately they are built like crap and don't hold up very well at all.
So mostly we use the Bosch wormdrives. They are our work horses. But if you look in the trailer you'll find one of those Dewalts I was talking about, a Milwaukee Tilt-loc sidewinder blade right, a Bosch direct connect blade right sidewinder (ROYAL POS), three corded Bosch wormers, a Skill HD77 wormer, a Bigfoot 10" wormer...... the list goes on.
If I've got to do any sort of overhead work, I'll grab a sidewinder without a second guess. But for everything else I'm most comfortable with a wormdrive..... the Dewalt or the Bosch. I hear very good things about the Rigid wormdrive too.
IMO, the only reason to buy a Skil 77 or a Mag 77 nowadays is if you are the self-conscious type who is worried about fitting in with the ornery old buzzards you're working with. The Bosch is a Skill 77's mechanical twin, but it has a more durable shoe, better guards, an additional 2 amps of power (15A vs the Skil's 13A), a better top handle, and it weighs less.
If I could own one saw and only one saw it would be a Milwaukee Tilt-loc. Probably a blade left. I don't even own one now, but I think it would be a great mix of versatility, light weight for overhead work, decent power, 50 degree bevel, and very durable for a sidewinder. I also personally feel that a blade left saw affords better visibility of the cut line. The reason I'd pick a sidewinder over a wormdrive is that occasionally something needs to be cut in place or cut in place overhead. Finesse. I feel a sidewinder has the wormer beats on fineese 9 times out of 10. You'll also get a smoother cut on finish grade work with a sidewinder's higher blade speed. I like the Milwaukee Tilt-Loc because you can drop the handle down so it's behind the saw, much like a wormdrive. I just don't like the feeling of dragging a saw through the work rather than pushing the saw through the work. Again.... it's just what feels right to me.
On the bright side..... there sure are an awful lot of good saws out there to choose from. Tough to pick a bad one, in fact. Just stay away from that Bosch CS-20 sidewinder.View Image
What do you mean you don't the east coast/west coast thing? I think it's kind of like rap. I just always forget who was east and who was west. Biggie and Puffy were west or east
I always flash west side because I'm west coast with a worm
. . . .or something
By the way, I think you gotta try that Ridgid. It is a nice saw and they say that orange is fashion's new pink
LOL.
I wanna be Two-Pac.
An orange wormdrive?
But it just doesn't go with new blue Makita recip. I'll be the laughing stock of the site for clashing like that. It's like wearing white after Labor day. You left-coasters will never learn.
Slave to the style over here on the east coast, cuz. Don't hate the playa... hate the game.View Image
Thanks,
I ended up gettiing the right blade porter cable MAG saw. I'm thrilled with my purchase. I veered away from Bosch cause of direct connect - seems hokey.BTW, I like your new tagline x-o-s-d-e-r <> r-e-d-s-o-x
in case ya diddn't know already
Edited 1/3/2006 11:09 am ET by xosder11
You'll like it. I have the left-blade version, but that's because I'm left-handed. Therefore, the fingers on my right hand will never be too close to the blade. Lots of power and it'll last forever.
Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
Edited 1/3/2006 11:38 am ET by Toolfanatic
Did you get the memo on the recall. In case you diddn't the lower blade guard may get stuck open.Porter-Cable circular saws Lower blade guard could stick in open position, exposing user to severe laceration hazard. Products: 196,000 Porter-Cable 7 1/4-inch MAG-Saws sold 3/04 through 11/05 at home centers and hardware stores for $130 to $160, including the following: model number 324MAG, bearing serial numbers 10001 through 108962; model 325MAG, serial numbers 10001 through 014712; model 423MAG, serial numbers 10001 through 100371; and model 424MAG, serial numbers 10001 through 012690. Model and serial numbers are both located on label on top of saw. Units with a "T" stamped under handle have been inspected and are not subject to recall. No injuries have been reported. What to do: Stop using saw immediately. Contact Porter-Cable at 800-949-7930 or go to http://www.porter-cable.com for location of the nearest service center to receive a free inspection and, if necessary, repair.
Edited 1/3/2006 11:58 am ET by xosder11
Was not aware. Thanks for the heads up. Still a great saw, though!
Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
First off, its not an "everybodys right, nobodys wrong" situation. A wormdrive is the way to go. So, I am right.
Seriously though....being right handed, having the blade of the left side of the saw seems more natural.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I'm the opposite- I'm righty, and prefer a right sidewinder.
But that's what I learned with. And I don't want to change now.
I started out on Makita sidewinders...blade right....picked up a wormdrive by accident, and haven`t looked back since.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
there's your problem right there. I never really liked the Makita saws.
I used an old Black & Decker ( remember when they made good tools?) circ. saw when I began. I think it was heavier than some worms, but it was a great saw. All metal body, tracked great, never bogged down cutting, even wet wood.
I wish I could have caught the guy that stole it.
I am in the same boat: I am a lefty, but have always used a right-side blade. I tried a left-side, and it felt awkward - no special reason, its just different. I'll stick with what I grew up with.
All...... I'm right handed, with a left blade cutting a 45 bevel at a 45 deg angle causes me to wonder how left handed people with right blades do the same thing and maybe you can pass on how you sight align for the cut .
You learn to do it right handed. Lefties are typically more able to use both hands than right-handers, because its a right-handed world and we have to adapt.
"A wormdrive is the way to go."But my mom told me that's more saw than I can handle ; )
If your a righty, and want to keep all your fingers, buy a blade right. You'll quickly learn the posture to "see" the blade. Additionally, it will place the weight of the saw on the supported material and the cut pieces will drop off without binding. For that reason it's much safer. When you decide to trim an 1/8" off, it won't be a problem.
blue
For that reason it's much safer. When you decide to trim an 1/8" off, it won't be a problem.I absolutely had not thought of that. Good Point. I can think of many instances when that would be applicable.Thanks for the info. Why, "if you want to keep all your fingers", could you elaborate. Remember I'm a novice with the power tools so anything you tell me that could prevent accidants is GREATLY apreciated.
Since you are a new comer to all this, I too think the right blade may be your best choice -- mainly for the reasons noted by blue. It may be a little more difficult to see your cut line, but it is easier (in the beginning) to have your saw supported on the piece you are cutting, instead of the off cut. Besides, if you get into much cutting of sheet goods, the EZ Smart Guide will look really good -- and you need a right blade saw for that system. The system will work with any saw, but many seem to prefer the PC.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
nikki.
Not just panels. You can have repeat cuts on the narrowest piece of wood.
You can have tapered and compound cuts on 1/2" narrow trim.
Now. we need to get you set up with the F-smart stuff.:)
YFCF D.
Its a very simple explanation xosder11.
Suppose you pick up a stud and want to trim 4" off it. You would hold the stud in your left hand and then start cutting. The entire saw, motor and table would be between your supporting hand and the blade.
If you buy a blade left saw, your left hand could theoretically be very close, even under the blade. That's impossible with a blade right.
The only "benefit" to a blade left is having the blade directly pointed at you so you can see it, which isn't a "benefit" at all to me because I've always been able to see my blade right. There might be one situation in ten thousand that I don't have a direct sight line to the blade right, and that would be in a very tight spot where I probably shouldn't be cutting anyways, but I do anyways blind!
blue
If you're right-handed, you want a "blade right." It protects the fingers on your left hand (the hand you're holding the stock with). A "blade-left" saw puts the saw's blade about 1-1/2" away from your fingers. The slightest little binding or kick-back could take a couple of fingers off.Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
A "blade-left" saw puts the saw's blade about 1-1/2" away from your fingers.
That's a bit of a stretch, don't you think? If it isn't a stretch for you, you might want to consider not using your hand as a fence. {G}
I know everyone is passionate about which style of saw they prefer, but that's pushing it. If you're cutting a piece of wood that is so small that you need to to have your other hand right up next to the saw, you are most definately cutting a piece of wood that shouldn't be cut freehand.
Even with a right blade saw, your hand would be in the danger zone of kickback.View Image
You're right. It's a stretch. But I still feel more comfortable having that blade further away from my fingers.
Having said that, I feel differently about a "trim" saw. If it's a lighter saw with a small blade, I prefer having a blade on the right so I can see the blade better.
I guess I'm just funny that way.Toolfanatic (a.k.a. The man formerly known as "Toolfreak")
Blue, I both agree and disagree with you here. "Keeping all your fingers" is a spurious argument since a lefty using a right blade saw will have their right hand either holding the workpiece or guiding the saw baseplate. Either way it's hard (not impossible I guess) to get near the blade. The only injuries I've heard of with circ saws were kickback-related. Anyway, we've been over this ground before...
However, the point about having the wide part of the baseplate on the supported part of the stock is a good point for a new user. I've long since grown used to compensating for the weight of the saw being unsupported, but a new user would certainly benefit from things the 'right way around'. It's pretty clear that right-blade saws were designed for right hand users because the front handle is useless for a lefty, and the stock support issue I just mentioned. Nonetheless a lefty will see the blade more easily using a right hand saw.
Re Bosch direct connect, it's a similar feature to PC's toolless blade change mechanism: both are nice features but by no means essentials. Having a cord connection hang up as you're making a long rip cut is annoying and potentially dangerous because of the distraction, but is easily dealt with by running the cord over your shoulder before you start the cut. When I used the Bosch saw I still ended with the cord over the shoulder because it dragged on the end of the stock otherwise. Direct connect could be handy when up a ladder by precenting disconnects from loose plug-ins, but a loose knot in the cord deals with that too.Lignum est bonum.
1. what Blue said.
2. Paulb.
3. nikkiwood.
4. the dust port throws the dust on the wasted side.
5. you can hold and use jigs with your left hand.
6. with guides and shootingboards, you don't have to allow for the saw blade.
With a right bladed saw you don't need a jointer-panel saw or even a tablesaw.
Don't ask me why. Please.
YCF Dino
i have a cordless dewalt that is left blade, and i have learned to love the set up. for crosscutting, i can set the blade on the line, square it up with a speed square held to the board in my left hand, and do a neat, square cut. on a right-blade saw, either the motor bumps my left hand, or i cut with my left and hold the square with my right. that's scary for me.
I'm a west coast guy, mostly what I do is framing now, and I use Skil 77s, blade left. That's the saw I've used the most in my life, and that's absolutely what I'm more comfortable with, and I like looking at the blade. I've heard the direct connect Bosch's are a pain in the butt because if and when you cut through the cord, you cut through a big one, and it's more expensive to replace. Another reason I like wormdrives is that it keeps my hand behind the blade, rather than sort of on top of it, like a sidewinder does...it just feels wierd. So if I WAS to buy a sidewinder, I would look at the Milwaukee Tilt-Lok saw. I've heard nothing but great things about it. Borrow saws from friends and neighbors, see which side you like the blade on.
Young, poor, and eager to learn
I just bought a left-blade PC for the sole purpose of ripping plywood. With a good straightedge, I find it easier to rip plywood with a circ saw than on the table saw (I work alone), and also more accurate. I've always done this down in the floor, but saw a 'tip' in a magazine recently where you build a little gridwork 'frame' and set it on sawhorses, and lay the sheet on that. I'm excited about trying it. Anyways, I clamp the guide to the largest piece and run the saw on the right side of the guide. A right-blade saw limits what kind of clamps you can use because the saw motor hangs over the guide. With a left-blade saw, I'll be able to use any clamp I want, plus you can see the cut line better. Since the whole sheet is supported, there is no concern about the offcut or where the weight of the saw lies.Never be afraid to buy the best..... you'll always be happy with it!