Replies

1. 
   Nick_"Ace"_Markey | Jan 15, 2000 04:35am | #1

   *
   It most certainly does - 24 carbide teeth won't necessarily give you the cleanest crosscut on plywood (you could always score the cut line before you cut) but they do generally give a fairly smooth cut. A decent carbide blade is all you need on your saw unless you plan on cutting masonry, vinyl, or doing finish work. The DeWalt blades aren't half bad either, give one a try. - Nick

1. 
   joe_d | Jan 15, 2000 01:00pm | #2

   *I would save your 2 current blades for work were you might hit nails. Go to a good contractor type lumberyard and buy a 36 tooth, thin kerf, combination blade, by Matsushita. Accept no substitutes of any kind not even their other blades. You will now have a blade that can cut any wood product for which your saw is intended. It will cut cleaner with less tearout and effort than you can believe. Mail order this blade if unavailable in your area. Cost will be $20-$25. I don't know a single professional carpenter who uses the little tooth plywood blades. By the way I did assume you have a 7-1/4" saw.Long cuts made slowly may warp and ruin this blade. Don't forget your eye protection when using saws.joe d

1. 
   jim_"crazy_legs"_blodg | Jan 16, 2000 03:02am | #3

   *joe d, you the man. MATSUSCHIDAS RULE TOO!

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil_ | Jan 17, 2000 02:17am | #4

   *I wouldn't use a blade that has 36 teeth for rough work. It's much too slow. I don't even like the 24 teeth blade (but that's whats normally available). They are also too slow.We ue the marathon blade. i have just recently discovered the dewalt blade and find it to be superior to the marathon. Both are inside the ten dollar pricerange.Neither fareswell on the cement board siding that I have recently had to install. The blades seem to do okay, as long as I have never hit a nail. The moment that i hit a nail, the cement rapidly degrades the blades. I'll have to use a serious amount of blades per house, if I keep hitting the nails, then the siding. I'm thinking of dedicating one saw to the siding.Any one else experiencing this?Blue

1. 
   Quicknail_Tom | Jan 26, 2000 09:15am | #5

   *The japanise blade that is spoken highly of is a very good blade. The dewalt is about 8.99 and won't be junk if you hit a nail. The cut won't be as smooth, but smooth enough for plywood over frameing. For a REAL smooth cut Porter Cable Rip Tide 7 1/4 x40Th is a great blade for hollow core doors, stair treads and other smooth cut requirements 18.99. We have Dewalts 10 for 79.90 includeing a rubbermaid 12 pack cooler at Quicknail. 1888nailgun toll free.

2. 
   Jim_Nation | Apr 01, 2000 04:03am | #6

   *I'm working on a homemade panel saw which will use a portable saw on a sliding carriage. What I need is a blade that will cut melamine smoothly. Any suggestions.

3. 
   joe_d | Apr 01, 2000 05:30pm | #7

   *Why are you hooked on the panel saw idea? I'm skeptical about your saw being able to produce professional quality cuts in either veneered products or melamine. Do you have a good table saw? Are you very short of room in your shop?I'm sticking to my Matsuhita recommendation. If I use one in my skill 77 and guide my cut with a shooting board then i'll have a nearly flawless cut in melamine.joe d

4. 
   Luka_ | Apr 04, 2000 07:49am | #8

   *This will probably get me a hoot or two, but I've always liked the 'piranha' blades. And as 'ace' said, score the line first, it's a lot faster than changing blades out.

5. 
   Frank_"Mad_Dog"_Maglin | Apr 04, 2000 01:48pm | #9

   *Though it seemed like they cut pretty well, I never could get much longevity out of them and because of that quit buying them. Switched to the the Marathon thin kerf by Irwin and seems I can cut twice as much than with Piranah. Hoot Hoot.

6. 
   Shakey_Jake | Apr 05, 2000 02:26pm | #10

   *I went the same route as Mad Dog for the same reasons plus my lumber yard sells them cheaper. I think the best thing I can do for my saws is keep a sharp blade in them. That's the least I can do for them.

7. 
   Barry_Miller | Apr 06, 2000 05:55am | #11

   *I sold saw blades for awhile. I got good commissions for Milwaukee and used to hawk them, though I appreciated that my customers would often rather buy three or four of my Marathons for the price of one Milwaukee. So, one day I took a Milwaukee 7 1/4, 24T blade home. Had to get a friend to help me carry it to the car. Boy, was it a strong blade, if I didn't mind the wide kerf, slow cut, and the resulting waste. Changed to a thin kerf Marathon, and I've seen the light since.

8. 
   lonecat | Apr 06, 2000 11:25am | #12

   *I love those Marathons! They are the only blade I see where 7-71/4 means what the hell its supposed to so I can put em on my 7" saws. Anybody ever tried to explain that 7-7 1/4 to the kid at the lumberyard?

9. 
   Keith_C | Apr 07, 2000 02:30am | #13

   *I think Quicknail Tom should send me a sampler pack of blades for hooking him up to this forum(that and the fact I blew $1000 at his store on proctors and trus-locs)hey by the way, LOVE that extended caulking gun I got up there also, guys slapped me on the back, saves theres. $44.00 well spent. If it were'nt 1.25 hrs. away, I 'd stop in often.

2. 
   BobA | Apr 07, 2000 02:30am | #14

   *
   I am a DIY and I have been using the so called combination blade (about 20 teeth) for cutting wood, and using the blade with 200+ teeth for cutting plywood, CDX, and etc for years. The problem is I have to change the blade back and forth. I notice that on the DeWalt combination 'framing' blade (24 teeth), the label says it can be used to cut the plywood, among many others. Does this mean I can use this one blade for natural and man-made wood? Please advise. Thanks.