I have seen this mentioned a few times here, and not wanting to look dim or anything, but I dont get this……
Why do some guys pin the blade guard on their circular saws?
I have been using them for years and have never seen or used one with the guard pinned up.
I am left handed which can make things a little awkward at times, but still have the guard functioning. A saw without one would not only give me the jeebies, but waiting for the blade to stop so it could be put down would be a major PITA.
Just wondering…………..
Everything, 100% of it, depends on how you look at it.
DW
Replies
I worked with a framer about 7 years ago who would pin the guard on his Skil (wormdrive). Those Skil's guards always snagged. With the newer anti-snag guards on the Bosch, Makita and DeWalt saws that isn't much of a problem.
I pin the guard when I'm cutting stair stringers, but that is about it. I do it because I can see the line better and it seems that I can cut more cleanly doing this way.
>> I pin the guard when I'm cutting stair stringers ...
Also when cutting a thin slice off the end of a board.
but not our fingers :-)
Nah, I use my chef's knife for that. The sharper it is the less it hurts.
With a riggin axe , it hurts!
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A utility knife with a new blade is good, too.
I can vouch for the less hurting part- getting the stitches out yesterday hurt more than the original cut.
If I was an Insurance or power tool Co lawyer I will have save this thread and get a good race next time I was ask to defend their Story.
Few years ago I have to hire a framing crew. They show up with the guards pinned up. One of them don't even have any guard at his saw.
The saw with no guard have an accident. (I rest a large 3'x" beam on it.) And the other two saws very quickly lower the guards.
...(After my guys told the framers that the saw accident was not really an accident.)
Making better saw guards is the answer.And is very-very- easy to make them. But until someone have the time and money to invest at this project..............
..IF Someone can use the saw without a guard...I'm sure he can use the saw with it. Remember the stats. 85.000 (yes thousands) power tool accidents per year.
How much insurance we have to pay per year?
YCF Dino
While I respect those of you that pin your guards, I don't allow it on my crew. Ever. That goes for me too. I pay the insurance bills, and I get to make the rules. I really don't believe that there is any cut that can be made with the saw pinned that can't be made by lifting the guard lever with your thumb. And for that matter, many of the newer saws (PC sidewinder and Bosch wormdrive come to mind) have their guards designed so that they just about never get hung up. I can take a slice of paper off the end of a 2x4 with the Bosch wormdrive and not have the guard hang up.
When cutting compound miters for rafters, I just raise the guard with my thumb. It's out of the way of the cut, and should kick back occur, the guard will still function.
Anyone remember that thread I started this winter? I posted photos of the shirt I was wearing when the saw kicked back and caught my T-shirt. If that guard had been pinned, that blade would have been buried in my rib cage. No question. I'll see if I can find the photo if any of you need more convincing. I also saw a framer on my buddy's crew let the a saw fall to his thigh after making a rafter cut. The guard was pinned and laid his leg open nicely. Like 80 stitches inside his leg muscles and another 30 or so to close up the outside. He was in a leg brace for about six months and had a pregnant girl friend.
I'm with you 100%. Not only do I pay the insurance, I know how hard is to get an insurer these days. The first time I saw it, I'd warn the guy. The second time, he'd get his walking papers.
AndyArguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Diesel,
I hear you man, that's why I only pin when I cut stringers. I am way careful when I do that and I don't like the stress. I was going to say that you should by a kevlar vest, but that may be a little uncomfortable.
By the way, speaking of stair stringers, I finally got to try the LSL stringer material made by Weyhauser. When it came out, it says "Weyhauser Rim Board", so I'm wondering what the difference is between this and the rim board that comes out for the I-joists. It was a dream to work with. Every piece is exactly the same, not crowns. These things are perfect! Here are a couple of pics I took.
Those stringers look great Tim. I've been seeing them advertised for a few years now and have tried on several occasions to get builders to spring for them. None of them seem to feel it's enough of an issue to spend a couple extra bucks on. The finish guys sure don't mind hanging us out to dry when the crowns are rough though.
What are you guys making with those stringers/material?
Temp stairs or stuff that gets covered up?
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
I know that some framers in some parts of the country don't do any of the stair work. But here in MA and apparently in WA too, we cut the rough stringers for the finish guys. I usually make temp treads out of 3/4 ply or 1x8 rough sawn spruce and just tack them in place. These treads will take the beating all the subs dish out during the course of construction. Finish guys remove them and install their pretty stuff on my stringers.
I'm not kidding about that shirt Eric. If the guard was pinned on that saw that day, I'd be dead. It slammed (and I mean slammed) the saw into my chest, table first, when the blade caught my shirt. I was making a cut on a split jamb when it happened. A cut I've probably made 200 times. I was black and blue on the chest from the impact of that saw and was working alone that day at the end of a cul-de-sac. No question...I'd have bled out quick. For the record, the shirt was tucked in at the time. Just wasn't my day.
Sometimes I want to make a cut and everything feels all crossed over an weird.
I have 2 saws. My skil worm drive that I love, and a 9 1/4 right side sidewinder, that I dont love so much.
I have always used my thumb to lift the guard if needed, then let it go. That way if the things kicks back the guard drops before you get mauled.
Had one back over my thumb one day when I was being stupid. If the guard wasnt on it I woulda lost it.
Everything, 100% of it, depends on how you look at it.
DW
Yeah, like I said, I know its dangerous. Its been habit for years and years. I hate it when I hear of someone being seriously hurt with any jobsite tool and skilsaws are most often the culprit. But on another note, the Timberstrand stringers are the best, aren't they? A couple days ago, I got my first 2x12 stringers on a job in about three years. The rep said the yard was all out of Timberstrand, so I had to take what I could get. Structural-select 2x12 doug fir. Straight as a string, too. I guess I have to cut them. Maybe Monday.
I'm surprised with the popularity of the left bladed saws.I like the warm drives saws (left bladed) but I don't like the fact that the're left bladed. I wish they start making a right bladed warm drive saw. Then we have the best of both worlds.
Bud instead trying to make the saws safer (right bladed saws 're safer due to the distance of the blade from your body parts) now days they 're making almost all the battery operated saws left bladed too.And only for the American market.
And only in America we have to pay every day to go to work. I'm so... upset of this nonsense that ..............I don't know what to say-do any more.
Work safer and smarter Guys ???
YCF (your carpenter friend) Dino
And something that we have come up over the years.
1,Measure the distance from the blade to the left of the saw base.
2,Make your own square with a piece of ply wood and 1x2. with this dimentions.
What you have now is a transfering square. Instead marking your actually cutting line you mark the visible line of the left side of your saw base.
It works.
YCF Dino
Edited 9/10/2004 11:51 pm ET by YCFriend
Edited 9/11/2004 12:23 am ET by YCFriend
> What you have now is a transfering square. Instead marking your actually cutting line you mark the visible line of the left side of your saw base.
I did something similar. Glued and nailed the 1x2 square to a scrap of ply, then used the circular saw to cut off the 1x2 guiding against the ply, on both sides. But instead of using it for marking, I clamp the ply to the work piece using the end of the 1x2 to know where the cut will be, then guide the saw against the ply. Clamping and un-clamping takes a little longer than marking, but pencils get lost and broken a lot easier than clamps. ;-)
-- J.S.
Hi John. It's good to see people thinking. The question is...
A.Do you mark the wood before you cut? Answer: YES
B. Do you use a framing square? Answer: YES
So.why not make your own square and instead marking one end mark the other. By doing that you don't have to look at the cutting line that is under the saw,and you can use a right bladed saw that is safer and stays at the wood during and after the cut.
Once I use a left bladed saw and it was clear to me that this saw was not safe for many reasons. A.the blade was to close to my body parts B.If you have to trim the end of the beam or plywood you have to hold the saw on the air.
C. the potential of a kick back was much greater than the right blade saw.
We all decide in our crew to off-set mark our cutting lines and stay with only right bladed saws for 25 years. It don't take any longer to draw one line few inches over the mark.The results:always a better job faster and safer. And how it can be faster? Because the cutting line was always visible and we don't have to look in front of the saw without a guiding line.
See you and keep thinking.
YCF Dino
YCF,
<Once I use a left bladed saw and it was clear to me that this saw was not safe for many reasons. A.the blade was to close to my body parts>
Sorry, I just don't see one bit of logic in that statement! If it were true, all the lefties that use right blade saws would be in the same danger with your reasoning.
<B.If you have to trim the end of the beam or plywood you have to hold the saw on the air.>
I'm not a lefty, but wouldn't they have the same problem with a right blade saw?
<C. the potential of a kick back was much greater than the right blade saw.>
Aren't they both cicular saws with the blade turning in the same direction?
I used a Milwaukee sidewinder for about 20 years, and love that saw. About 10 years ago I switched to a Skil '77 so I could see the cutline and blade better. I wouldn't go back for nothing. I also have the little Skil 5 1/2" trim saw, blade left and love it.
As far as the "pin the guard up" issue goes, I think most would agree with me, there are just a few cuts you cannot make very well without pinning the guard up. Try cutting a bunch of wooden stakes with a model 77 without doing so. Well, I guess you could clamp each stake so you could help the guard up to get the saw started in the cut...and make a career of it.
I keep my mind on what I'm doing when the guard is up, and unpin as soon as the cut is complete. I value my personal parts, and still have all of them. (Knocking on wood now)
Just so ya know...I think the guard on the '77' is junk! Can't understand why Skil never improved it to work better. It looks like the new Bosch guard might just bolt on. Something I've been pondering since they came out.
For those who occasionally pin, the little plastic wedges that you use with laminate flooring products work great. But I didn't say that.
Peace
Hi Dez. The lefties should use left bladed saws. and the right handed right bladed saws. This way the blade is far away from the hand that holds the wood.
The blade rotation is the same but with the wrong saw in your hands the saw drops with your cut-0ff piece.
The potential for a kickback 're greater and the distance of the blade is smaller the same time. (with the wrong saw)
What I'm saying is the cutting line can be visible at all times with any saw.
So why not use the saw that stays on the ( keep piece ) with no kickbacks and with the whole saw been a guard.
And all this by marking the cutting line few inchess over.think about it.
YCF Dino
> A.Do you mark the wood before you cut? Answer: YES
Actually, sometimes no. I stretch the tape, and put the end of the 1x2 where the cut should go. Put the tape down, grab a big spring clamp, and clamp the plywood in place. The ply then guides the foot of the saw so the cut is straight and square. This is probably too slow for paid work, but I'm just doing it for fun these days.
-- J.S.
Hi J. For Fun it's OK. Bud as you say too slow for production work. You have one more tool (the clamp) to deal with it.In addition to your Jig.
What I can Imagine here is to eliminate both and still have a safe and square cut. Looks like we need a eureka moment here.
See you
YCF Dino
If I want to be really accurate (bearing in mind my training is in framing carpentry) I hold a speed square with my left hand and run the saw base plate against that, just take a little adjusting to see the blade lines up. If I haven't fooled with changing blades, I can use the guide on the front of the base to line up the cut. If I'm in a hurry and accuracy isn't critical, I just eyeball the cut and watch the base to see that it continues to look perpendicular to the far edge of the board as I go. And faster is straighter than slower when cutting. Same with drawing a line freehand. One quick swoop makes a straighter line than a slow, careful drawing.
Stringers are cut from them ansd used for temp treads in construction phase and the temp treads are replaced by trim later
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Do you like using the floor protection I see in the pic of the stair finish in progress? I have used the stuff and like it a lot.
Does your supplier get you the LSL stringer stock in its 1-3/4 thickness? None of my neanderthals here say it is available. They tell me to use the LSL rimboard in 1-1/4 thickness.
I just got some new stringer stock that is 1-3/8" wide. What a shocker. It is almost like a microlam, just a little thinner. Kind of hard to use the stair gages on, because the edges were eased a lot. But what a nice set of stairs it made!!
I get the stringers in 1-1/4" Don't have a need for the 1-3/4 but if I had a long stair set, I would probably just use LVL
Yes, I like that flooring protection, except when it comes to vacumning chips out of it. The stuff really clings.
I have the white for after floors finished when mionor things being done, and the original brown for regular protection
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firebird,
For us, all of our stairs are carpeted, so those stairs get 1x8 risers and the OSB bullnose tread material. In case anyone says anything, we've been using the OSB Bull nose material for over 10 years with 0 problems.
I love this stringer material. I swear the I cut and installed the stairs faster too, but that might be my mind :-)
Hey Tim ... I just put 2 and 2 together and got ... uh ... what is it again? Seriously, I just figured out who you are ... mostly cuz today I just re-read the article you wrote in JLC about the framing nailers. Was the high pressure nailer really as good as you said? Boy that price sure is high though .... $2k for a one-gun setup.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Who am I? Hmmm, I've been pondering that one for awhile :-) I got lucky over at JLC and they started shipping me tools.
I'll tell you, nothing, I mean nothing compares to that Max High Pressure setup. When I sent it back, we all broke down and cried. That gun was just plain sweet. The compressor was light and quiet and wasn't much bigger than my HP7960 printer. The compressor would cram 8 gallons of air in those tanks. The hose was heavier than the Coilhose, but about the same weight as the 1/4" x 100' Senco hoses we run our regular guns on. The gun was just a dream. Almost no recoil, had more power than any gun I've ever used, easy to adjust the depth on (we ran it about 275 psi) and was just sweet! I can't even think of the right adjectives to describe it :-)
$2000k is very expensive. I do know that some other manufacturers are introducing guns and setups that are very similar to the Max. I saw the Hitachi hi pressure gun at the Intl Builders Show in vegas. It was very cool, but they Hitachi rep said their compressors were more expensive than the Max and they were trying to get the prices down. Here is a pic of the Hitachi.
look for a stamp on it next time and it will most likely tell you that it has a higer bending (Fb) and Modulus of Elasticity (E) value. The rim board usually has a 'E' vlaue of 0.8 while the stair stringer I suspect is around 1.3E or 1.5E. Wait until you see the Timberstrand lumber comming that is the same size as 2x10s and 12s. If you frame roofs with coventional lumber you will fall over when you create a jig for your rafters and it all works out nicely without any crown concerns.
Now you've got my interest piqued. Is there any more info you can provide? We ususally use all 2x10 for rafters (no trusses), what will the Timberstrand rafter material be as far as cost goes?
The Trus Joist reps that I have talked to about this want the pricing to be right there with 2X's with the usual flucuation that occurs with the lumber market. About 10 years ago they wee running 2x10's out of the Lexington KY plant just to work the bugs out of there manufacturing process. What happend though is they hooked many builders on the product at a cheap cost. Now that they have multiple plants and feel they can produce a quality product that is needed they are pursuing the process again. I learned this in a meeting about 1 year ago. So when it will hit I am not sure but it is interestering.
if I was laid up for six months, I'd have a pregnant girlfriend too.
;)
Seriously, I was wonderiong how long it would be before the antigaurdpinners showed up here. I never pin it and get the bejesis scared out of me if I see it. Doesn't happen when I'm in control either. it is a whole lot easier to get the gaurd started when you need to than to heal up from cutting another finger off, or worse, IMO
now - should we progress to tablesaw gaurds? I do admitt to throwing them away.
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In all honesty, I can't recall using the guards on a table saw...ever...not even once.
Right on. I think the main diff. between table saw blades and circ. blades guards is that a circ is on a pivot point( your arm) and a table saw is fixed. Not to many cicular saw accident are from a saw that is stationary with a moving blade relative to saws that are bound , or jump , or are being set down , or dropped, all which are eleminated by the nature of a table saw fixed position.
That said I also am a firm believe in the odds of sher numbers of times we handle tools with blades that some day eventualy one will eat us for lunch. Agree of disagree drop me a note.
good luck Mike
Odds related to number of times used? Maybe that's why I have so many scars.
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How very true and if the numbers are runing out on me then I am probely due. Your Bio says I am a decade or so behind so just how many scars do I have to look forward to ? I can only think of one bladed tool that hasn't got me in one way or another,,, fortunatly none of them severe,, Yet. Say by the way is Maine similiar to Mn. in the winter? Does the ocean soften the blow or make it worse? Maybe it is the stories,,,, maybe my kids,,,, or just common sense but I very rarely open the guard and when i do it is with my thumb so it is just for that cut. Mike
Never been to Mn so how can I say?
I am on an island so it does not get as cold as inland or in northern maine, but spring stays cold due to the water. The lilacs are already in bnloom on mainland when they are barely budding out here, three weeks behind.
I hold the circ saw in right hand. if I need gausrd retracted, I reach across with left and use finger to lift gaurd, so my left hand is holding the pommel of the saw with just index finger tip holding the handle of gaurd up.
Scars? i guess it is just about one every five years.
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Same here with the finger only when I use others right blade except I have a PC left blade so I use the heal of my left hand with fingers on the front handle. Are you right handed? Have you ever noticed how much of a beating your left hand takes? guess it is because your right is always holding or behind what ever can bite you. I am around Mnpls. and we have a town in northern Mn. that is always in comp. with a town in Colo. for Icebox of the US. Catch ya later Mike
That would be Fraser, CO. I did plenty of work there.
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Been there myself on a ski trip to winter park, nice area and nice skiing , went in the spring and stayed at the cabins at the YMCA nearby.
mmmmmmmmm, that was you eh??
Still shaking from that one I'll bet.
I was bought into this world being told to pin up the guard and have forever.
Like I said before, until recently, having read enough stories here and having my son wanting to get his hands on the saw......it's down now, just wish I could find where I put the damn lever!
Like Piffin said, it's alot easier to deal with the guard then to spend months healing or maybe losing something.
My buddy cut his left thumb almost completely off finishing a plunge cut on a peice of pine he was HOLDING in his left hand, guard pinned up, not sure if the guard would have closed up quickly enough. I was holding up the other end of the board...........
He's ok, the sewed him up, yeah and it took a good six months.
Guard down,
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
The overwhelming number of times that the guard is a nuisance is at the beginning of the cut. On my 8" worm drive Skil saw, I made a little lever that lets me start the cut with the guard withdrawn and a flick of the thumb puts the puppy back on duty.
What's so hard about laying the saw on its side when done with a cut. I've never used a Skil saw with the guard down. I still have all my fingers and I'm left handed.
What about your saw ? left or right bladed?
Right bladed.
It looks like the old man was right.
He said......If you learn something wrong for too long....the wrong becomes right forever.
Can someone explain to me how a right handed using a left bladed saw can trim 1"-2-"or few inches of a board?
And I may be able to explain the 85.000 power tool accidents in US (per year).
Can someone explain to me (and to others like me) why we have to pay the same insurance premium with those who either have or looking for an accident?
And if someone have the Luck the coordination and the charisma to avoid accidents until now that don't mean that this things don't run out.
See you guys.
YCF Dino
Speaking of liability issues - I sure was suprised when I bought my Porter Cable 347 several years ago when they first came out. It has a notch in the arm you use to manually lift the guard - that just happens to be perfectly sized so that if you pull up the guard and slid a carpenters pencil in there the guard stays up for you. Don't imagine they list this feature in their liturature, but it is pretty obvious what that notch is for.
Friend of mine had an older Bosch I believe it was that had a large lever up by the front handle that you could pull the guard up with - thought it was a pretty decent feature - don't know that they still make that model though - it was a sidewinder
They still make that saw. That was the best safety feature on circular saws for a long time. I use one for few years, works perfect.
YCF Dino
I assume you are reffering to the Bosch
Yes.The Bosch. We have a Bosch -Skil store near by and I buy the recondition saws (Bosch) 8 1/2 blade for $129.00.
YCF Dino
I can explain it all to you...for fifty bucks
you tout a "new way" guess what...it is called "amibidexterous"
it's been known by man since rocks and fire...use the other hand...duh.
no offense here pal, but we don't come here for info-mercials...at least I don't.
good product, market to someone else (not me).
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
In theory you can (tut) your other hand to cut, but in reality you hold the saw (on the air) with your good hand, the wood with your left and a blade rotating at 5000 RPM with nothing between but all the potentials for kick-back and accidents.
So ,in order to make a safe cut you have to (tut) the other hand. Don't you think is better and safer to use the good hand and the right saw?
Do you really think I try to sell here?
YCF Dino
You can call it wrong if you like, but I don't find it very important, I'm just responding to the replies of laying it on its side. Not a big deal at all.
The guy who told me to do this still has all of his fingers, so it's fine if you choose to pin it up or leave it down. Whatever works.
Well, it looks like its me and you against most of the world, pal. I'm left handed, too, I use a Bosch worm drive and pin(no actually, I have a zip screw in it) th guard up. Its how I've used a saw for many years and its what I'm comfortable with. I posted here earlier, so I'm not going to repeat myself too much. I stop the saw blade before I push it through the wood. Blades that aren't spinning can't remove body parts. I'm nervous around green guys who use my saws. I watch em real close and chew on em awhile if they don't get the hang of it. I try NOT to hire total rookies as they make me nervous longer. Most framers have used saws with the guards pinned, so its no big deal to them. If they don't like it, I tell them to break out one of their saws. Seriously, this thread makes a guy think real hard about the dangers involved with framing houses. I think about it ( the thread) every day and I've told my crew about it and gone over the use of saws again. I don't want anyone hurt, for sure. Concentration and common sense go a long way to prevent accidents.
Can someone explain to me how a right handed using a left bladed saw can trim 1"-2-"or few inches of a board?
to answer your question --I am right and have a PC. left and to take an inch off you use your foot and the saw plate is a guide on the board not a weight bearing thing and gravity does all the work .
beside with my body off to the side, the saw not in my line of sight to the target line and the ground nearby I don't have much to worry about . Unless I decide it might be a good idea to pin the guard open, NOT. Mike
I have read a few replies where folks think that I pin the guard on my saws........I dont.
The point of the thread was why would anyone do it, as I have never had a situation where I even wanted to.
I hold the thing up with my thumb if I need to start a cut, then let it go. Today I was hogging out the waste for a heap of half lap joints. I just held the thing up while I made the zillion cuts, then let it go before I put it on the floor. Never have to worry about a spinning blade. A stuck guard just outright gives me the willies.
Everything, 100% of it, depends on how you look at it.
DW
Can you get some pictures with your method? If it is a safe way to trim boards with al eft bladed saw It will help and save few thousands fingers per year.
Now days even the battery (cordles) saws are made with left blade (only in US)
And I think It will be a good thing for editors and companies to promote the safe use of left bladed saws.
And I will like to post some pictures on our web site as well.
Thanks
YCF Dino
Where did you get your 85,000 accidents a year figure?
What percentage would you guess are novice users that would find a way to hurt themselves with an idiot-proof saw?
I read a few months ago of a guy who used ####miter saw table composed of 1/2" sheetrock. The rock broke and down came the saw, takig with it a part of the guys hand.
Do you really think poor design was at fault?
Also, you asked how to trim 1-2" with a left blade saw. It's easy, I do it all the time. You make the cut. If you can handle the saw and your blade guard works as it should anything down to 1/4" is no problem.
From 1/4" to nothing, I hold the top handle and retract the guard with my pinky. If it kicks back (which almost can't happen if you're awake) you let your pinky loose and swing the saw away from your body.
Do I get $50 now?
Jon Blakemore
Edited 9/16/2004 6:17 pm ET by Jon Blakemore
This number includes all power tools. The novice users and home use power tools acount for the majority.The numbers was taken from the labor/Osha stats. I will try to revisite the site and pass the info and the link. (good luck to me here)
What I absorve over the years with circular saws is just what you descrive above (and by the way You dont get the $50.00)
Kick backs and more kick backs. But In your case you have the experience and the skill to deal with it.
"""From 1/4" to nothing, I hold the top handle and retract the guard with my pinky. If it kicks back (which almost can't happen if you're awake) you let your pinky loose and swing the saw away from your body.""""
But many others don't. And the list that we can do is tell them that a framers saw (left blade) is not for them to use.The majority of circular saw accidents come from left bladed saw and novice users that they cut fingers and wood togheter. And the funny thing is that the insurance companies pass the whole bill to the pros.
Like that Idiot that you mention above with the table saw.You and me pay for him too.
YCF Dino
I can agree that the right bladed saws might minimize the danger of kickbacks but I still think that's not the issue.
Jobsites and work are both dangerous. I don't think the saw kickbacks are worth considering too much. Learn your saw and move on. I'm much more inclined to pay attention to fall protection and nail gun usage.
Jon Blakemore
The four shorter fingers of my left hand keep reminding me that a properly functioning guard is an essential part of preventing expensive operations and unplanned vacations.
SamT
Hi Jon. ....About fall protection. Last week I saw a guy on the roof that almost fly down 3 stories. He was setting the plywood on a new roof.
Fall accidents is another epidemic that we can stop very easy. But we need to see the problem first. And the problem is not that we can't stop the accidents by coming up with solutions. Same for the nail guns too.
YCF Dino
" And the problem is not that we can't stop the accidents by coming up with solutions."
What does this mean? Aren't solutions what we need?
Jon Blakemore
The problem is greed and the Matcho man mentality.
If we spend just one hour in each roofing job and few hundred dollars on safety gear, we can save few thousands dollars and life's each year.
One simple solution is few Eye Hooks and ropes. (similar to climbing gear) I use simple Eye hooks and ropes many times and I'm not shame to say it.
YCF Dino
I think what YC was implying is the solutions are here now already, in the use of known proper safety precautions, but that those precautions presently are not being used.
But perhaps I'm in error. Happens now and then.
"""""Also, you asked how to trim 1-2" with a left blade saw. It's easy, I do it all the time. You make the cut. If you can handle the saw and your blade guard works as it should anything down to 1/4" is no problem.
From 1/4" to nothing, I hold the top handle and retract the guard with my pinky. If it kicks back (which almost can't happen if you're awake) you let your pinky loose and swing the saw away from your body.""""""
OK. Let's try now with a right bladed saw. Transfer your cutting line to a visible one and follow this line with the left side of the saw base. What we have now is an (all the time) visible line that makes it EZ to align your saw and minimizes the kickback while your left hand is far away from the blade and your right hand pinky don't have to deal with the guard.
And believe me your cut is faster - safer and better. At list teach the new guys this new way and stop worry every time you hear the saw binding and kickback.
Do I get $50 now?
YCF Dino
Edited 9/16/2004 7:35 am ET by YCFriend
As long as we're on the subject of circular saws, my pet peeve is the little "safety" buttons. Okay, you pull the trigger under the handle to operate the saw, but it won't start untill you somehow get your thumb into a totally unatural and inconvenient position, loosening your grip on the saw, in order to press the safety in. That's what I hate and can't understand why those buttons can't be placed in a more naturally accessible position. The Colt .45 semi-auto has a grip safety and you hardly notice it's there. Arguably, a Colt .45 can do at least as much damage as a saw. If the .45 used the same philosphy of postioning the grip safety, it would be on the trigger guard!
There was an article by Larry Haun in FHB and I believe that he talks about it and there may be pictures. Can't search right now --I'lll have time later tonite. Till then Mike
YCF,
Still trying to pedal the right blade, and your "Safer" line marking methods, I see. I would like to make a couple more observations/points if I may.
Can someone explain to me how a right handed using a left bladed saw can trim 1"-2-"or few inches of a board? This is easily done: Left side of shoe rests on work piece (for me)...hold the saw level. As someone said, you can trim 1/4" or less...no problemo.
OK. Let's try now with a right bladed saw. Transfer your cutting line to a visible one and follow this line with the left side of the saw base. What we have now is an (all the time) visible line that makes it EZ to align your saw and minimizes the kickback while your left hand is far away from the blade and your right hand pinky don't have to deal with the guard.
Please explain how this method minimizes 'kickback' more than just cutting the actual measured cutline?
And believe me your cut is faster - safer and better. At list teach the new guys this new way and stop worry every time you hear the saw binding and kickback
You either make two marks or you measure to actual line, and subtract the blade to edge of shoe measurement. Please 'splain' how this is "faster-safer and better." Impossible!
In theory you can (tut) your other hand to cut, but in reality you hold the saw (on the air) with your good hand, the wood with your left and a blade rotating at 5000 RPM with nothing between but all the potentials for kick-back and accidents
Just don't get the "on the air" thing you keep referring to.
The majority of circular saw accidents come from left bladed saw and novice users that they cut fingers and wood togheter. And the funny thing is that the insurance companies pass the whole bill to the pros
Once again, I ask...What about the lefties with right blade saws? Your arguments just don't make a lot of sense to me! Have I missed something? Don't think so...seems that your convinced that right is better than left regardless which hand the user is.
Without getting too personal...I'll rest my case.
Peace
Hi Dez.Time limits my response to few minutes before I hit the road.
A. hold the saw level . Why hold the saw and don't rest your saw.
B. Because the saw is rested flat
C. Make your own offset square and instead draw the cutting line draw the off set line. It's easier faster better and safer to follow a full visible line that is not under the saw.
D. Ok. it's not 100% on the air is 80% with a left bladed saw trimming a beam.
E. Left handed people must use left bladed saws.
Sorry for running.
YCF Dino
good evening-- I found Larry Haun's book named " the very efficient carpenter" I bought it locally but I m sure I saw it offered in FHB . I also remember he had a short version in the mag, not to long ago . I believe I had the basic tactic for the left blade off the foot trick. but I am sure I got a tip or two from Larry.
I can see it now" Honey- will you get the camera?" take a picture of me bent over cutting this board will ya? NNNOOO not from the back. LOL Fire me back and I will pursue this further if you like. Mike
Hi Mike. Anything that can help the safe use of left bladed saws is very welcome. Especially this days that all the home use circular saws (Cordless) are left bladed.
Thanks.
YCF Dino
Hope you just knocked on wood.
What's so hard about keeping the guard operational?
I will admit that pinning the guard is not the most heinous safety infraction that one can committ on a jobsite, but it seems the risk is not worth the benefit.
Jon Blakemore
Walking on a sidewalk on a busy road is a risk. I can see the benefit of keeping it down for insurance purposes if your running a crew as dpig mentioned.
It's up. I bought the saw in 1991 and its been up ever since. A carpenter friend pinned it up when I was working with him. So as far as I know, skil saws don't have a guard. Its just one thing less to do or change.
The few times I've used other people's saws with guards I've botched my cuts.
I still don't understand why you need to do it unless you're cutting lattice or beveling. Do you frame a lot of roofs?
Jon Blakemore
I guess I'm used to it that way and never bothered to put it down. I've never framed a roof in my life, I'm just remodeling a house for the first time. Basically gutting and changing a few things is all.
Point well taken, but what if you're on a roof? Saw just rolls over, and over and over. On roofs, we sometimes ran the saw into its kerf to hold it in place on the sheathing.
What do you do with the guard down on the roof. How do you set it down.
On roofs, sometimes we worked off of the forks on a lift, so I'd set it on that, or if just the roof, tried to slide the blade so as to retract the guard as i put it into a space between sheathing, balance it on the ridge (usually had cut out for ridge vent, so there was a level slot to put it on. Or. like I said, run it into the sheathing and let it stop.
cartlor,
I second the 'knocking on wood' thing.
It's up. I bought the saw in 1991 and its been up ever since. A carpenter friend pinned it up when I was working with him. So as far as I know, skil saws don't have a guard. Its just one thing less to do or change
Except for maybe 1/8th of one percent of all the cuts you'd ever make, you would have NO need to have the guard out of your way. As I said earlier in this thread, I pin it up on occasion...but having it pinned up permanently, or completely removed is unsafe...period.
The few times I've used other people's saws with guards I've botched my cuts
What do you do with the guard down on the roof. How do you set it down
I guess I'm used to it that way and never bothered to put it down. I've never framed a roof in my life, I'm just remodeling a house for the first time
All three of these statements smack of inexperience! Put the guard down before you join the 85K the other guy keeps referring to.
If you need a reason other than preserving your own body, just think of how many cords won't be cut or nicked up while in your tool box, and how you will be protecting your saw blades from damage.
Peace.
You are absolutely right. I consider myself fairly inexperienced. You just sealed the deal though with your condescending nature and red type.
I dislike being force fed advice, so I'll just leave it alone. I guess I should have said nothing about laying it on its side.
What do you guys do for fun anyway?
cartlor,
It's unfortunate that you felt I was being "condescending." One of the first statements you made in this thread was:
What's so hard about laying the saw on its side when done with a cut. I've never used a Skil saw with the guard down. I still have all my fingers and I'm left handed.
I just let that statement go right on by because I personally have forty years experience using a circular saw, and have all my digets also. I would'nt have said anything (because I don't know you or how much time you may have been in the trades) had you not made those three statements...which basically spoke to the experience you had.
As far as the red type goes, it wasn't meant to offend, only to highlight your statements. I hope your okay with the blue.
.Peace
No worries. I always do the opposite of what people say I should. The 'smacks' is what got me.
" I always do the opposite of what people say I should"
That statement smacks of someone trying to sound like a fool
I sincerely hope you don't end up with your fingers on the floor before you decide to use your ears to listen to good advice.
how's that for condescending?
I held it in when I discioved that someone with less than enough experience to know how to control a saw in a cut was giving out unsafe recommendations in a flippant manner because I wanted to read on and see if you followed up with any qualifiers.
Turns out all you've done is to confirm my first impression. I won't bother you with any good advice though, since i know you will do the opposite and probably cut yourself while thinking about me.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
It's the manner in which the advice was given. When I need help with something I ask for advice.
I visit this forum for advice. I wasn't asking for advice on the saw guard, but I got it anyway. I also got an angry reply from you that I didn't ask for.
The short time I've been visiting this site, I noticed you have a lot to say. It appears most if not all of your advice is valid.
Not that you care about my respect for your advice, I'll just have a little less when I read your comments from now on.
And that'll be your loss.
dartboard!!!!!!!!!!!!ahahahahaha I just got what I meant by that ahahahahah
just playing with you :-) I'm in a weird mood tonight. Must be the aspartame
Hi C. Take a brake and read what you said,
"When I need help with something I ask for advice". "I wasn't asking for advice on the saw guard,
How do you know when you need advice and what you was asking when you wasn't asking for advice on the saw guard?
I think that Piffin give you what you was looking and you can't see it yet.
YCF Dino
When I confront an issue I can't solve I'll ask someone who knows.
I made a comment about the saw guard. The majority to offense to the comment, but thats all it was, a comment.
a really sharp fortsner bit 5/8" in size also makes a nice little scratch in the thumb/ forefinger region at about 450 RPM. didn't hurt too bad, but those stiches burn like hades
My brother used a forstner bit or some kind auger bit to try to mill a workpiece hand held on his lap. It got away from him and he ended up with a dozen nice little crescent moon cuts on his thigh.
UD
I would say that your brother is lucky thats all he has scars on!
I have been loosely following this thread for a little bit now and I just can't believe it has gone on this long. Why is this even a discussion? Fact is, those who pin or goof with the guard on a circluar saw at all are just plain stupid. It is unsafe and you or someone around you are going to get hurt. Figure out how to use your saw as intended and safely or use a different tool (or do something else... maybe you were just intended not to work with tools). Now I'm the last guy to be the safety advocate on a job site but this one to me is clear as day.
I think I need to stop following this thread casue I can see myself getting all fired up. So my vote is no on the pinning of the guard question.
Rob Kress
I understand where you are coming from. I wouldn't feel safe having a saw with the guard pinned all the time, but when you've handled a saw for a long time, you can safely pin the guard for certain work.
As a side note, I tested all the inline saws for JLC last winter and fall and except for the Skils, all the saws had anti snag guards that worked very very well. The guards have come a long way since the older saws that snagged on everything.
Tim,
Bit of a hi-jack here, but what do you use to finish the cuts on your stringers? What I'm asking is have you found decent hand saw that you like?
just over cut 3 or 4 inches, the block will fall out...LOL
I use a folding Japanese saw if that helps, it fits in the bags nice.
edit: it's the GOMBOY from Highland Hardware..about 30 bills.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Edited 9/13/2004 6:46 pm ET by SPHERE
just over cut 3 or 4 inches, the block will fall out...LOL
That's Funny!!!!!!!!!!!!!!Peace
I like to use a DeWalt cordless reciprocating saw for stringers and rafters. Most folks around here just cut deeper with the circular saw since they contend that the customer will never know and the inspectors don't care.Les Barrett Quality Construction
Guy who taught me had me using a handsaw. He tried a sawzall, but said it wasn't too clean. I use a jig saw. It is fast, clean and easy to use. With a circ saw I cut right up to the line and then come back and finish the cut with the jig saw. I'm a bit anal rententive (I hope that spelling isn't too far off :-)) about over cutting stringers.
Brian:
Another vote for Sandvik.
I have 2....a 2600 XT Superior, black, and a 2600 XT Superior, gray handle. The difference...none. I think it is black with orange now.
These saws are teflon coated, so as not to bind. They feel wonderful. I use a handsaw amost everyday, that's why I have 2, in case one needs sharpening...the black one needs sharpening now, after 8 years. These are GOOD saws!
AND....they come with a blade guard, LOL. And it works! Clip on, clip of, 2 secs.
Now....Sandvik is owned by Bahco, which is owned by Snap-on. So my second saw says "Bahco", instead of Sandvik.
So if you Google Bahco, you will find Sandvik. here is a link that shows the 2600, and the 2700.
Edited Link:The direct link does nor work, so try this:
OK...Use the second link:http://www.bahco.com/asp/pubs/index.asp?lngMenuID=1645&lngID=2387
1. Roll over "Catalog" on left.....click main catalog- next page2. Select "N. America" from drop down...click "Select"-next page4. On left, click "Hand saws"-next page5. On RIGHT,click" Hand saws"
....And that should take you to where the other link would go to...if it had worked, which it dosen't! LOL
And a link to Bahco, USA, to find a dealer:
http://www.bahco.com/asp/pubs/index.asp?lngMenuID=1645&lngID=2387
Measure 3 times, cut twice.
Peace
Edited 9/14/2004 9:24 am ET by Newf
Edited 9/15/2004 7:31 am ET by Newf
Thanks for the info Newf....I'm going to check that out and pick out a nice one. You use a handsaw almost everyday, huh? That sounds nice....
As I replyed to Dino....Because the 1st link went south:
OK...Use the second link:http://www.bahco.com/asp/pubs/index.asp?lngMenuID=1645&lngID=2387
1. Roll over "Catalog" on left.....click main catalog- next page2. Select "N. America" from drop down...click "Select"-next page4. On left, click "Hand saws"-next page5. On RIGHT,click" Hand saws"
....And that should take you to where the other link would go to...if it had worked, which it dosen't! LOL
Yeah no matter what I do, the hand saw comes out at some time...along with the crow bar, cat's paw, and sometimes the 8 lb mall. Well...except in the shop. I use the 4 lb mall, LOL!Peace
Newf, I couldn't get on that website without a password. I really want to find a good toolbox-sized crosscut, but I can't stand those friggin' plastic handles everybody puts on them these days. Even Diston....
Did you see a Sandvik with a sculpted wood handle on that site?
Dinosaur
'Y-a-tu de la justice dans ce maudit monde?
Hi Dino!
You're right, that link wants a login ID .Internet gremlins!
OK...Use the second link:http://www.bahco.com/asp/pubs/index.asp?lngMenuID=1645&lngID=2387
1. Roll over "Catalog" on left.....click main catalog- next page2. Select "N. America" from drop down...click "Select"-next page4. On left, click "Hand saws"-next page5. On RIGHT,click" Hand saws"
....And that should take you to where the other link would go to...if it had worked, which it dosen't! LOL
The handles are plastic and rubber for grip. I love wood, but these handles are better. Honest. Ya gotta try them!!!! Very Erogonmic.
Peace
Edited 9/15/2004 7:22 am ET by Newf
I just use my Bosch jig saw- with the right blade, it cuts fast, straight, and square.
Right on --Use the Bosch myself --I have discovered the Progressor blades and haven't look back for doing that thick square cutting.
Once cut 6 layers of 1/2 ply to gusset some trusses for a barrel roof side entry on a house and the bottom layer came out dead on to the top layer. Niiiiiicccccceeeee Mike
I had no choice on my PC 19.2 V , it fell off a sawhorse and became impossible to use with out brute force..no biggie, I don't use it that much..I just be xxxxtra careful.
Steep angles, stairs, and compound rafter cuts, my Milwaukee gets the wire up trick, makes it much easier to start out 'on the line" and not get steered off course when the guard gets involved.
I'd rather have a guard that is constantly up, than one that hangs when it feels like it...I gave away my last MIL, due to that. 3 new blades trashed on one job, by having it set down on macadam, when the guard was stuck..I had taken it apart about 10 times, cleaned, oiled, replaced the spring, bushings..you name it..I finally just left it with a homeowner/builder who swore he could make it right..I guess he did, no news of amputation.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
What type of saw do you have? Left or right blade? And why is a little awkward at times?
Thanks.
YCF Dino
Here in the northwest, especially during the rainy season, they get pinned up, cutting wedges, they get pinned up, doing a lot of plunge cuts for funky sheeting and decking, they get pinned up.......
I pin mine up because it keeps them out of the way. I'm VERY careful with skilsaws. Every guy on my crew knows that every saw has the guard up. When a new guy starts, he is told very plainly that the guards are up and how to use the saw. The new guy is watched very closely for a coouple days, too. I make sure they are fully aware of the hazard and I make sure I'm comfortable with them using my saws. I've been pinning my guards for so long its second nature to me. When the blade stops, you take it out of the wood. You can stop a moving blade several different ways. I show new people all of them. I tried unpinning them a couple times here recently and I couldn't readjust to having the thing hanging down. I realize it is dangerous to pin a guard up, but I'm used to it. Being distracted by having to lift the guard is a probably dangerous, too.
Boy are you in trouble..........funny thing is, I probably could have written that myself!
I am a changed man though........after reading about and seeing enough accidents, I am letting my guard down. That and my son is now working with me. Could you imagine how I would feel if.........nah, don't even wanna go there.
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
What kind of saws do you have and what kind of work?
I pin my guard very rarely, usually only for cutting lattice. Maybe I have it good but my guard rarely seems in the way, and if it is I can easily hold it up with one finger while my other four are gripping the top handle.
Jon Blakemore
I pretty much never pin the guard. My habit is to pick up the main trigger handle with my right hand, open the guard with the little handle on it using my left, and that brings my left hand to where it needs to be to grab the front handle, still holding the guard open. I can hold the saw that way through the entire cut, or let go of the guard after the wood is supporting it.
There was one hotshot guy on a Habitat build who insisted on always pinning the guard. I did my best to find things to do far away from that situation -- accountants having their first power tool experience that way.
-- J.S.
My first experience with a circular saw was 3 years working for a framer in the early 70s. He pinned all of his guards back, and as others have mentioned here, he taught me how to use a circular saw with the guard pinned back. So for 30 years I've pinned the guard back most of the time. I've heard of a couple of bad accidents with guards pinned back, but I'm extremely careful with mine.
A circular saw guard is a pain in the azz. I'm surprised no one has come up with a better design. I believe a person with more time and ability than I could figure a series of levers on the guard handle that would let you use the thumb on your right hand to lift the guard as you start your cut.
I worked for a guy with 30+ years experience framing who always placed a wedge into his guard when cutting stringers and rafters. I have cut them that way and still don't feel safe. If you do use the method, it is wise to become good at the technique of using the wood as a brake for the saw. let off on the trigger at just the right time so the blade only rotates a partial turn after the cut is made. This way, if that one time in ten thousand you swing the saw back against your leg, you will not make a life-threatening gash that will ruin your day. I have found the guard on the Bosch worm drive to be better than that found on its brother the Mag77. It will go up even when cutting on an angle.
Maybe they aren't as attached to their exremities as other people are and don't mind losing a few fingers or having the saw rear back on them when they forget and put it down before the blade stops. ;-) Guards can get in the way sometimes, like when cutting angles they seem to jam and stop the saw from moving. But their usefulness to prevent injury far outweighs the inconvenience factor IMO.
what I don't understand is the permanant pin up ...
I pretty much never do it ... unless there's lotsa small shaving ...
or lotsa plunge cutting ... mostly just hold the guard up with way yer supposed to ... with yer pinky stretched over ...
but when I do ... just shove a shim in there ...
works fine to wedge the guard up ... make your cuts ...
then back to a safe saw.
No need to explain then watch the new guy ...
plus ... the shim trick pretty much requires you to know yer doing something dangerous ... and for those coupla seconds ... you pay extra attention.
both hands .. both feet ... and just where is that saw gonna kick back to when it decided to bind ...
then .. remove the shim ... and happy saw'ing.
Jeff
Buck Construction, llc Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
AJ,
The reason you don't feel the need to pin the guard back is because you're a lefty. You therefore see the line better than a right handed user (assuming this is a typical blade-to-the-right sidewinder saw we're talking about). A left hander has the saw a bit off to the left of their 'eyes ahead' position, so they can look slightly left and see the blade cutting with nothing to impede their view.
A righty, on the other hand, has things reversed, and their line of sight is partially blocked by the motor and forward handle, leaving a narrow corridor through which to sight the line. Holding the guard up helps a little, so on fine cuts where control is key, they pin the guard up so as to get both hands back on the handles.
This would have to be about the only situation I can think of where being a lefty has been to my clear advantage. Good thing for a carpenter! You right handers need to try a blade-left circ saw to see what I'm talking about, you'll never want to give it back. I know Porter Cable makes their contractor saw in both versions, and they are priced identically. Better grab one now before B&D screws them up too.
Wally
Wally
As a lefty I agree with you about the sidewinder, always felt sorry for the righties because of the way they had to use a circular saw!
The one and only tool that was ever made for the poor left handers!
I have a Milwaukee battery saw, wont use it because for 30 years I have been able to see the blade, cant change now.
Doug
Lefties unit!
As AJ says, at the beginning, I found the skil saw strange to use. Now it's old hat, and us lefties do have a better line of sight. I have always used a Makita 7 1/4..... a '84, and a '94 . I have never ever pinned back the guards. Even for stringers. My thumb and the hold-back on the guard work great.
Table saw....there's a guard for that?
...<g>.... Now the Knotheads will be ticked. Knock on wood , I still have all 2 9 digits.
Doug.... I think the chain saw was designed for us lefties, too. Left hand is on the control bar handle, while the right just hangs around on the trigger handle. Left hand being stronger, more control.
Cool.
Everything else sucks, especially the 7 yrs less life expectancy.And higher life insurance
Be a south paw.Peace
Newf
7 yrs less life expectancy.
What the hell!!!
I'm switching to my right hand. I always said that us lefties could switch to our right easier than a righty could switch to his/her left.
Just trying to live in the right mans world
Doug
Edited 9/13/2004 5:33 pm ET by Doug@es
7 years less life expectancy? Are you kidding me?
I'm a southpaw myself. I can't even write a decent looking check cuz of the way my company check portfolio is set up. I've got to rest my hand on the binder rings to write out a check....I oughta just complete the package and sign it in crayon.
And tool bags? Forget about it.
Brian,
I can't tell you where to buy a good handsaw.........the stuff i see in the stores now a days is a bunch of plastic coated crap.
I have two sweet older Sandviks. They are gettin close to 25 yrs old. I have a fine and a rip, I've had them so long I don't even know the TPI anymore, but I get all goofy when I send them out for sharpening. Hey, did ya know that the Eskimos sometimes lent out their wives? Sorta the same feeling. I ask them if the sharpener will wrap the saw to deliver it back. When I get a funny look, i know that it's time to move on. I mean c'mon, I just want her back clean ya know?
I also have a 'newer' Diston rip, stays in the garage for the occassional lope and to trim the Christmas tree.
I recall a thread here some time ago, and someone had a source for the Sandvks, I believe it was a local hardware store.
My dad had a couple of really nice old Diston hand saws, I don't know who the fick head was that stole them and has them as trophys now.
Let me know if you find someplace to get a good hand saw. I'd buy a couple just to have them for the future.
I'm Sveedish, I LOVE dose Sanviks!!
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
not a true hand saw, but this sucker will scare ya, it is so cool.
http://www.tools-for-woodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=895
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Eric,
This store http://www.mytoolstore.com is local to me here in Vegas. They carry the Sandvik saws in a bunch of lengths and either rip or crosscut in the store. I don't believe they have them on their website, but if you call the 800 #, I'm sure they would send you one. They aren't quite as nice as your older sandviks (I have a couple too, and I'm looking for more) but are still good quality and they weren't very expensive, relative to the Pax and the few other new saws that are around.
-KitTechnique is proof of your seriousness. - Wallace Stevens
Okay, since you're Sveedish you may like this--when using a two-man saw, "yoost pull."
yoor turn.....yoost pull!
EricEvery once in a while, something goes right!
you are right, ya both pull..a 2man cc saw is heavy..add chips, it's worse..just don't pull at the same time..lol
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Some tools were designed by lefthanders for sure:
Circular saws: as I mentioned in earlier post.
Chainsaws: having my control (left) hand on the control bar is much better for me, I can make nice accurate cuts.
Tape measures: they read upside down for right-handers unless they switch hands and try to mark with their left hand. Lee Valley actually sells a "right-hander friendly" tape measure!
But other than that it's a tricky world out there. We have all devised ways around them to some degree or other.
Cheers to all you lefties out there!
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
A saw has no respect for nobody, and it is also the ``devel ``with an angels mask on........ if someone next to you is pinning back the guard an then setting it on the floor after ,it`s an accident waiting to happen, why not just get the sawzall out if you have to pin the blade back to make a cut...... a couple more minutes of time is alot better than getting cut by a runaway saw with it`s guard pinned back
Please read your owners manual. Never pin a saw guard. If it interferes with the cut, pull it back by hand to start the cut and let go once started. A pinned guard is an accident waiting to happen. The only person I ever heard of dying from a skill saw cut, bled to death from a severe cut to the inner thigh.
Saws, left-bladed or otherwise, are not dangerous. People are dangerous when they operate saws. It seems a lot of folks rely on the blade guard as a fail-safe. I was taught to treat the blade guard as being non-functional, whether its down or not. When finishing a cut, let the blade stop spinning at the end of the board and set the saw down on the blade side.
Left-bladed saws work great if used properly. If you're getting kickback, stop cutting on a table, that's what chopsaws are for. Cut down on the board, holding it near the ground. Problem solved.
The opposite of safe is sane.
Dryden Construction Services, Inc
"He who xxxxs nuns will later join the church." -The Clash
Sometimes I need to pin it back. But I don't want to keep it pinned. So I bend the steel part at the end ( Skillsaw 77 ) to work with my carpenders pencil. That way when I reach for my pencil and it's not there I remember to unpin my my guard. Oh, and when you need to pin it the pencil is right there.