CLEANOUT FROZEN – 40 yr old cast iron
toolbear
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
Folks,
Anyone out there with a proven technique for unscrewing a cast iron cleanout that has not been moved in 40 years or more? Heat (outside just painted)? Big cheater? Lots of WD 40?
The ToolBear
“Never met a man who couldn’t teach me something.” Anon.
Replies
Those things can be a beeatch to budge, particularly if the location is damp (externally).
I suggest an angle grinder with a cutting wheel.
Cut an X, and knock it apart with a chisel and a big hammer.
Stay a bit shy of the female threads to prevent damage.
This is the no messin' around technique...
Replace with a brass one, and coat the threads with teflon so it will come apart next time.
Edited 10/14/2005 2:54 pm ET by csnow
csnow is right,if you can't get it loose after a couple of tries cut it out. Make sure that you don't drop any parts down your sewer line. On the replacement brass c.o. plug I also agree, make sure that you have something that will act as an anti-seize compound on the threads. Lots of luck.
There is a product called PBlast or sumthin (P!Blast?) like that which is exceptional for loosening frozen joints. Much more effective than Liquid Wrench or anything like that. I was able to easily break loose 90 year old water pipe connections after the stuff sat for 2 days on the joint. Designed for auto engines, but works great on plumbing. I get mine at a large hardware store, auto parts stores are another source.
Glad to hear about another way to loosen threads, but i'm not sure if the original post wants to wait. If you are in the trade there is no way that you can put that time of delay on the bill. What I post is what I think is the easist way for someone who is not a pro. to do their choir without a brain freeze. Luck.
Yup, I can understand. But it is worth knowing about PBLAST. I was working on a rusted in clean out plug that wouldn't move with 4 feet of cheater pipe on a pipe wrench, we could see the cheater pipe bending from the pressure we applied.
We sprayed some PBLAST, and the home owner tapped (vibrations help it work) it with a hammer twice a day fer two days.
The home owner then popped it loosed with a small pipe wrench with no cheater bar at all. Real useful stuff!
Im always interested in different ways to do things, but I've never heard of PBLAST. Where do you get it, I live in the N.E. Thanks.
For keeping threads working, I have had good results with Never Seize from my mechanic's tool chest.
Now use it on the boat - prop and shaft, thru hulls, etc. So far, so good.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Never Seize is a good call.
"...I have had good results with Never Seize.."
You know, that stuff might be worth a thread in itself. Not everyone has tried the stuff.
I may wander over into the tavern and start a thread about it...
If it wasn't for plumbers, you'd have no place to go.
Toolbear - Never Seez(TM) is my #1 favorite boat accessory. Literally thousands of applications, every bolt ever removed goes back with a coat. My truck sports alot of it too in similar hidden locations - lug nuts especially.
You mentioned you are using it on prop and shaft hubs and other underwater hardware - beware, there is a seldom seen variety of Never Seez which is copper in color and does contain copper. Salt water use, first hand experience, says not to use this variety on 316 stainless shaft with a bronze wheel - some wierd electrolysis occurs, localized at the shaft taper; all zincs still intact. 10'4" x 1-3/4" ss shaft, 26x24 Michigan four blade - did not think we we ever get the 2 apart - produced pits in both metals (11 month continuous immersion). Luckily a very competent machinist in the local prop and shaft shop machined both and it was not a big loss.
The gray variety has never produced any problems. Sure is nice to know you'll be able to get things apart when the time comes.
Tip: WD-40 will remove Never Seez from your hands or other surfaces where it is not wanted.
Jim
Never understimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
"One finger full of Never Seez and you can paint a whole boat."
JT,
The grey stuff is about half powdered zinc. I believe. It should be perfectly suitable for use on a boat as any galvanic corrosion will affect either the never seeze or your sacrificial anodes first.
Ron
NEVER SEIZE...
Heard about the copper version. Never seen it. I have been using the grey (nickel?) and no pits between SS shaft and the prop. Of course, there is a plastic shim collar there.
I will have to try WD40 on hands. Otherwise, it doesn't really come off.
I got some Nalgene squeeze bottles with the flip up spout and use those for dispensing NS and (when doing electrical) No Oxy onto the fitting.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Toolbear -
Like others have said, two pund hammer and a small cold chisel, or a grinder. They break out pretty easy, and you will need a replacement handy for the job. If you elect the manual method, start in the middle and go easy because you don't want to break the pipe.
Oh yeah, keep a spackle bucket handy to catch what falls out - pieces of the plug included. (Not a job I enjoy doing.)
Don
toolbear,
A rooter guy told me that they always carry spare brass plugs on the truck, and routinely cut out the old stuck ones. Less time, less harm done than trying to torque it off.
Ditto the Teflon recommendation.
Bill
Only ever had to deal with 2 such, both times simply chiseled out the lead and oakum and removed the whole fitting, put in a plastic cleanout after. Pop once re-oaked and re-leaded before plastic days, reused the old frozen cleanout also..
Spray liberally with KROIL. That will loosen it after a day or two - it may need several applications. I haven't found anything rusty yet that won't loosen after a lot of KROIL dumped on it.
Permit me a DUH! moment...
KROIL = Duh??
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
Sorry, should have been more helpful. Kroil is a product made by Kano Laboratories.
http://www.kanolabs.com
I just mention it here because it has been discussed and praised ad nauseam in the Old Woodworking Machines community. I bought two cans and use it on everything rusty. It breaks stuff free that nothing else will touch.
KROIL -
Looks interesting. TNX for the tip.
The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.