I got the compression test report back on that little footing – 6390 psi, pretty good for home brew mud, right? But the bad news is that it looks like the rebar assembly did sink a little bit after I cut it loose from the overhead supports, and it looks like I got kinda generous on screeding. Bottom line, the J-bolts don’t stick up quite as far as they should, only about half way into the nuts. I’ll probably try cutting some kerfs with a diamond saw and then breaking out between them with the Bosch hammer, unless anybody has a better idea.
— J.S.
Replies
If code allows, hammerdrill new holes & install new bolts?
Tapcons sound like the plan here.
If codes allow
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
What footing? Did you intend to post a picture? What are you holding down with these J-bolts?
You can stretch those bolts to get the thread you need but first you have to cut off some. Use a Simpson CNW coupler nut threaded onto the J-bolt after you cut off just enough to leave thread to seat to the stop in the nut. Add a short length of All-thread and then the washer and nut. You will most likely have to oversize the hole in the bottom plate to accept the coupler. If the combination is too tall you can add a few of the larger washers and if still way too tall you may have to double up the bottom plate at that location.
Sometimes, but not often, the J-bolt will have a lot of thread, buried in the footer. A little chipper action and you can expose the threads. Cut the bolt flush with the footer and thread the coupler. It will now stick up only a little.
> What footing? Did you intend to post a picture?
It's the one I have in the photo gallery under "New footing in the middle of the house" I'll post more pictures later. The last ones were from before the pour.
> What are you holding down with these J-bolts?
A cripple wall ten inches high under an existing 4x6 girder.
> Use a Simpson CNW coupler nut ....
Ah, yes, thanks. I like that idea much better than tapcons. There's a place nearby that should have them, they specialize in anything to do with concrete work and earthquake retrofitting.
-- J.S.
I went and checked the pics, and not to be critical, but it looks like you were a little skimpy on the amount of exposed thread before th pour. In hindsight it would have been a lot easier to leave anouther inch of thread exposed and cut it off later.
> it looks like you were a little skimpy on the amount of exposed thread before th pour. In hindsight it would have been a lot easier to leave anouther inch of thread exposed ....
Yup. I really f-ed up on the j-bolts. I spent about 2 extra hours with the diamond saw and Bosch hammer getting the 3/16" I needed. There's a picture of the results in the photos now. The bottom of the groove is kinda bumpy, so to distribute the load properly I think it might be good to even it out with a bonding agent and a very thin layer of concrete. I'd wrap the sill in plastic and use it to form the new surface. What do you think?
Thanks --
-- J.S.
Can you run the nut down snug, then squirt epoxy or grount under the wood?
Just went and looked at the pic (you're getting better with the Kodak!). What about laying down a bed of slow setting epoxy first.
Edited 7/15/2002 11:03:49 PM ET by ELCID72