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In framing a single story house wall, how do you know where to have the top of the window/bottom of the header to have it even with the outside soffit when the rafters are installed? Since the height of the completed soffit will depend on the roof slope and width of overhang, does this have to be computed during framing of the wall, or is there another way of knowing?
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I would appreciate some advise on fitting a counter top. I have built a new counter for my bathroom, it si approx. 1" to long and I must scribe it to fit the walls. How do i do this with the counter being to long to put into place to scribe?
*If you get stumped or if its on Monday make a pattern out of some extra sheet stuff.
*Here's a trick for situations just like this.If you are like me, you have some scrap plywood pieces laying around, or at least some scrap material that you can use. Take two pieces of plywood, about 2/3 or even 3/4 the length of the countertop space. Just make sure that each piece is over half the length of the vanity cabinet. Run them through a tablesaw to get the same width as your top.Set one piece on the vanity cabinet, and butt it against the left wall. Scribe this piece, and set it aside. Mark it left side.Now do the same thing for the right side.Use a sabre saw, or band saw, or any other type of saw you feel comfortable cutting freehand with. You can even cut close to the line, and use a belt sander to finish the contour. Once the contours are like you want them (dry fit each piece to be sure), take the left piece and set it into place, then set the right side on top and get it tight against the wall. Now do one of two things. Take a couple of screws and screw the pieces together, ot just scribe a pencil line where the two boards intersect/overlap. I prefer the screw method because it holds the boards together, and makes it easier to handle.Now take this pattern that you have just made, and set it on top of your vanity top/countertop and mark the top. Cut it as you would normally, but leave a little of the line showing so you can use a belt sander to finish the cut. Now set the vanity top in place. It should fit like a glove.Just a thought...James DuHamel
*James,A refinement of this trick is to cut the two pieces short, lay them both in place and screw a third piece on top to hold them together. This way they are in the same plane.
*Heres a method that removes the step of cutting and test fitting the pattern.Take a peice of card board or 1/4" plywood roughly 1" smaller[just so it fits loosely without touching the walls] than the area the top has to fit. Center it in the area with the front hanging over the amount you want the top to hang over and tack or tape it down. Now take something about 2" wide or so like a level or framing square and butt it to the wall and mark the pattern on the inside edge all the way around. Now lay it on the counter top and center it flushing the front edge and useing the same square or level lay it on the pattern with the inside edge on the line you previously made and mark the outside onto the countertop, then cut and or sand to the line like James said. Bout as clear as mud huh?Chuck
*Mike...I like that idea. Saves time and like you said, gets them both on the same plane. I'm gonna try that.Chuck...I've tried that on other types of projects, and it does indeed work well.My problem is I seem to always get the walls that aren't flat. The walls I get are wavy as heck, and I have to scribe to get a good fit. My personal favorite for getting a good fit on these wavy suckers is the belt sander. Every time I have to make an accurate inside to inside measurement, I use a version of the same trick I mentioned. For trim, I take two long, narrow pieces and basically do the same thing. For upper door jambs, I do the same thing. If I am not having to scribe and cut the ends, I keep a few pieces for trim and jambs and such in my van for this purpose. Since I am used to doing this, I get great fits, and it goes quick.James DuHamel
*In framing a single story house wall, how do you know where to have the top of the window/bottom of the header to have it even with the outside soffit when the rafters are installed? Since the height of the completed soffit will depend on the roof slope and width of overhang, does this have to be computed during framing of the wall, or is there another way of knowing?
*Move your question back to the top of const. tech post message and put in a title to your post. That'll get you a headline that others will see as a new topic.Draw the detail out full scale on the deck or a sheet of ply. You can fine tune the return with the size of fascia to get it right where you want it. You may have some room to move with the header size also. Remember to stay to code.Draw it out b/4, as the pitch, header size, etc could make you have one hell of an overhang or fascia in order to bring it down enough.Best of luck