Replies

1. 
   calvin | Dec 13, 2006 01:28am | #1

   If the variation is on a complete run of cabs, this makes hiding a bit harder.  If broken by a drop down, open space or being across the room-not as difficult.

   I hid a preknown big variance utilizing a wide frieze(fascia) and a pretty good sized crown.

   Here you can see the results.  Run the frieze level, run the crown with the ceiling with only minor modification of the top edge.  The edge against the ceiling was pretty healthy.  In one or two drastic and quick undulations I carved into that flat spot so the rest would run nice and tight to the ceiling.  The first two are finished, the second two are with the frieze only.

   A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

   
1. 
   ChuckKiser | Dec 13, 2006 03:10am | #2

   CalvinNice work. I used the same approach on a circa 1920 farmhouse in Washington State with wavy ceilings.Chuck

1. 
   calvin | Dec 13, 2006 03:34am | #4

   Thanks Chuck.

   I think the best tool I've purchased in regards to kitchens was the PLS2 laser.  I take it on the initial look see and place it on the counter, turn it on and walk around the cabinet locations measuring from floor and ceiling to the beam.  It gives a quick answer b/4 the book is written on the kitchen design. 

   This kitchen was in an 1835 cobbled up and ...........house.  You didn't need the laser to know the floor and ceiling were all over the place, but it helped to make the initial decision on no attached toe kick on the bases and also was the design decision on the wide crown backer.  Here's a b/4 which really makes the finished product look good.  Nice when you have such a drastic change.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   user-196900 | Dec 13, 2006 03:18am | #3

   Thanks and nice job. My job will have a shorter freize and slightly smaller crown...hoping for similiar results. what do you think about oil vs latex paint for my cabinets which are birch ply and poplar doors/drawers. I'm thinking of benj moore oil but sherwin williams has a latex which is supposed to be good.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 13, 2006 03:37am | #5

   Thanks nc,

   Hopefully some of the finishers here will see your question about the paint.  I rely on either the cabinet co. or painter to make those decisions.  I sir am merely a dumb carpenter.

   But smart enough to know the finish is so very important.  There are some wizards here that I'm sure can advise you correctly.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

2. 
   ChuckKiser | Dec 13, 2006 04:02pm | #6

   NC,When I paint cabs and trim (which I try to avoid) I use BM pro 300 IIRC. I prefer the latex and I add some Flotrol for a smoother finish.Chuck

3. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 13, 2006 05:10pm | #7

   Hey Cal,

   What is that piece the fascia is sitting on? It looks like you have a routed edge on a stick of U-shaped material. Just wondering if the U was planned or something you had laying around from another job.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 13, 2006 08:18pm | #8

   Hey ralph, how's the sunny south?

   The "u" appearance is caused by a shadow.  The routed edge is on a pc of 3'' flat stock.   I screwed a leg on the top of it to receive the fascia and screwed from the back to fasten.  Then put the whole shebang up and screwed up through the face frame to fasten to the cabs................I think.

   That kicked out the whole thing so it would be out with the door fronts.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/