I have a couple of installation questions relative to installing cultured “ledge stone” on the exterior of a new house
I understand that I am to place a building paper over the 1/2 inch exterior plywood wall sheathing (l;ike 60 minute paper) then screw attach galvanized metal lath. However when I get about a foot above the ground the plywood stops and the concrete foundation begins.
Do I attach the metal lath to this section of concrete as well??
This concrete is on the same plane with the face of the studs so the plywood sheathing is 1/2 inch further beyond.
Is the mortar behind the cultured stone simply thicker here so as to align with the stone that is on the plywood above?
Lastly, so as to not see the concrete below the stone can I extend the cultured stone a couple of inches down into 3/4 inch washed gravel if the washed gravel is maybe 8 inches deep and about a foot wide (like a trough).
Replies
Hey Vince, welcome to Breaktime.
I've never specified cultured stone on any of our projects but I did a bit of research on proper detailing for an application it was being considered for a couple of years ago. One detail that is often overlooked with a cultured stone veneer that will be in direct contact with the wall is to use two layers of felt underneath the lathe. According to the manufacturer I was researching at the time, the miniscule gap between the two layers is intended to serves as the drainage plane that is generally created by leaving a 1" to 2" air gap behind a real deal masonry veneer. You might check with your supplier to see if that trick is still in use.
As to covering your concrete foundation below the plywood, the proper way to do cultured stone on a new house is to leave a masonry ledge on the foundation much like you would with a real stone veneer, just narrower. It produces a more convincing result too.
I don't think there will be any problem taking the faux stone all the way to the ground if your slab is already poured without one though. The thickness variations of the ledgestone will probably hide the 1/2" difference on it's own but, yes you do want the lathe attached to the concrete as well.
Kevin Halliburton
"I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity." - I.M. Pei -
Hi Vince,
I posted a picture of our CS a short time ago on the fake stone thread.
Owens Corning recommends that CS should be kept 4" above grade or 2" above concrete. That can be achieved by putting a level 2x to start your first course of CS. Owens Corning has very clear instructions for installation, and I would think not following their guidelines might void their warrantee.
We did full tyvek house wrap first and then used a lath with paper backing for the drainage plane. On the foundation that's exposed below the sheathing, we added a layer of fanfold and Hardie backer to bring the face out to match the sheathing. That also gives a thermal break and small amount of insulation value to the exposed foundation. The fanfold and Hardie backer were attached to the foundation with tapcon concrete screws, and the lath was also attached through the fanfold and Hardie backer with tapcon. The fanfold and Hardie backer were kept above grade to allow drainage. The rest of the lath was attached with 2" roofing nails with fender washers.
kestrel
I hired a crew to install a local manufacturers light weight concrete stone. The whole crew quit on this guy the first day so he and I laid the stone. After reading these post I realize that I didn't do enough detailing before the installation.
I used 3/4" plywood on 2x6 walls for my gable face. I used 30lb. felt then lathe but I didn't cover my block foundation , just buttered it right to it.I let it touch the ground and moved dirt up against it in a slope to drain the water away.One side of the house I Built a ground gutter system with decorative rock .
So far,been 9 years now, I have had only one problem 2 or three of my larger pieces have cracked but are still in place.This material is pretty fool proof so i wouldn't sweat it too much and have fun.
One detail I wish I had done was to lay some on the flat at the bottom to create a nice transition from wall to ground and improve drainage and reduce the possibility of insect infestation.
GOOD LUCK
ANDYSZ2
I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.