Replacing triple 2×10 drop girder with W12x40 flush I beam (spec’d by engineer). This beam has an 8″ wide flange, 1/2″ thick with a 0.30 in center web. It is 23′ 6″ long. The floor joists to be supported are 2×10.
This beam is going to be inserted from one end and pulled into place with a come-along (a lot like Tom Silva did on the Manchester by the Sea house).
I’m looking for any pointers for this installation.
My choices are to have the web drilled so I can install wood webbing to space out ~4″ on each side (sounds expensive). Maybe I don’t need to space out this far. Maybe just one 2×10 in the each side of the web is enough to get a joist hanger on each floor joist?
Second option is to cut the floor joist to match the profile of the I Beam (with a little to spare all the way around) and then block up off the bottom flange to support the floor joists (sounds cheaper). However, how do I cut the 1″ high by 4″ long notch in the top of the joists? Any pointers on how to make this cut would be appreciated. Also do these I Beams come out straight as an arrow? If I cut a 1″ wide gap down through all the flooring joists that is dead straight, there won’t be any problem jacking this thing in?
MERC
Replies
Trying to thread a needle are you? I have never tried the length you are about to but the only question is what are you going to do with the sag in the steel as you pull it in. I might try steel rollers set to the height and reduce the friction. I bet your local wrecking yard might have something for you to buy with rollers on it. For new construction without a crane we slide on a 2 X 6 frame capped with a piece of steel angle with bracing against the direction of pull. We dont nail though ...we bolt the connections. If you get hung up you can at least notice with a change in tention on the winch cable. To cut the top of the joist I would drill a hole then finish with a sawzall to the hole. In new construction you need that 1 1/2" of bearing so if it works out you may have enough space on the bottom flange to get it. You still even have to support all the existing floor to do the work. This could be quite the maze.
Scott T.
Most of the time they are straight , some will have a bow or S curve but very slight. It should thead in . I have nailed 2xs to steel pipe by drilling a hole through the 2x and the pipe ,very slighty less than a 16d ,then driving the 16 in . The hole would be like a press fit and the nail will not pull out . It will have to be cut to disassemble . That might be an option to drilling large holes for bolts.
I sincerely hope there is no sag since it has to span 22.5' in its final resting spot. I was planning on building two temporary walls on either side, then building a platform between those two walls that I could put some 1" iron pipe "rollers" on. Yes it's going to be a maze. And add in that it is in a crawlspace that (fortunately) has between 3' and 5' of headroom.
In case you are now wondering why I'm doing this in a crawlspace - I'm going to dig the crawlspace out and this beam will allow me to get rid of the two columns that are right in the middle.
Thanks for the response.
MERC
Roud pipe in a hole you dril in the stud! Never thougt of that.. great Idea will keep that one in mind. Now it doesn't seem to be that much of an obsticle. It was the leading edge sag that I meant. I wasn't very clear but with your method every 4 to 6 ft would prevent it from being a problem.
Good luck.
Scott T.
Oh yeah, I see the leading edge I need to get going straight. Fortunately I have good clearance on the outside and it's almost ground level. So I just need to do a little digging and leveling, throw down some plywood with my pipe rollers and have the rigger drop the beam on it. Then start jacking away.
MERC
Put a length of PVC over the pipe and you will have a very good roller,almost like having a ball bearing roller.