Hello,
Can you recommend a web-site or othre reference to help with design/engineering or a deck?
It’s pretty straight forward what i want to do< the only exception being longer girder spans (approx twelve ft) that i was planning to use rough cut white oak eight by eights for>
there will be a roof over the deck (shed roof)
thanks<
roger <><
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Replies
The folks in Fairfax County, VA, have a lot of good info on decks:
http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/decks/
-- J.S.
great reply post, thanks
OK, hijack with a varient question. I am looking a building a free floating deck, not attached to house, next to the existing patio. This is in place of pouring a new slab patio. so it can/needs to be almost ground level. Would there be any issues with using freestanding concrete footings on the ground rather than below ground?
" There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow
It depends on your climate and soil. In freezing country, they have to go deep enough that "frost heave" won't move things and tear them apart. The other issue is that building anything wooden real close to ground level requires careful attention to drainage and possible subterranean termites.
-- J.S.
One issue you will have is ventilating the bottom side. Every Wood spec I have heard of recoomends allowing 18 of air under the deck boards. Once things start to grow there...
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Since the ground is 3" below the level of the patio, if I allow 18" I would only need 1 step between deck and patio level - that would not be too bad. I was thinking more of any problems with the deck lasting longer if not attached to house and piers on ground rather than buried at or below the frost line.
" There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow
I was thinking more of any problems with the deck lasting longer if not attached to house and piers on ground rather than buried at or below the frost line.
Why?
Whether the deck is attached to the house or not should not affect it's lifespan.
Have seen "platform" decks (around campers, etc) that rest on solid conc blocks on grade with stone dust or sand beneth. If high enough to be vented properly, and designed like a stiff box, it should not be a problem.
As long as you use the right support foundation, whether it is a couple on the outside or twice as many to support the inside, you are doing it the best way IMO. And the house is likely to last longer. Improperly done penetrations at that point are the most common cause of sill rot that I can think of
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
See if you can get 6x10 for the same cost. That will do you even better
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
that's a lot of white oak...
heavy...
good idea, I think I'll try that. since I already have the logs, and they are big enough, and I'm cutting them on my sawmill, cost is the same. They will probably even be a bit lighter.
Thanks,
Roger <><