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Deck Design/Engineering Links

MrSQL | Posted in General Discussion on October 9, 2006 07:05am

Hello,

Can you recommend a web-site or othre reference to help with design/engineering or a deck?

It’s pretty straight forward what i want to do< the only exception being longer girder spans (approx twelve ft) that i was planning to use rough cut white oak eight by eights for>

there will be a roof over the deck (shed roof)

thanks<
roger <><

 

Reply

Replies

  1. JohnSprung | Oct 09, 2006 08:20pm | #1

    The folks in Fairfax County, VA, have a lot of good info on decks:

    http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/dpwes/publications/decks/

     

     

    -- J.S.

     

    1. User avater
      MrSQL | Oct 11, 2006 12:13am | #4

      great reply post, thanks 

      1. User avater
        Ricks503 | Oct 11, 2006 12:38am | #6

        OK,  hijack with a varient question.  I am looking a building a free floating deck, not attached to house, next to the existing patio.  This is in place of pouring a new slab patio. so it can/needs to be almost ground level.  Would there be any issues with using freestanding concrete footings on the ground rather than below ground? 

         

        " There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow

        1. JohnSprung | Oct 11, 2006 12:49am | #7

          It depends on your climate and soil.  In freezing country, they have to go deep enough that "frost heave" won't move things and tear them apart.  The other issue is that building anything wooden real close to ground level requires careful attention to drainage and possible subterranean termites.  

           

          -- J.S.

           

        2. Piffin | Oct 11, 2006 01:58am | #8

          One issue you will have is ventilating the bottom side. Every Wood spec I have heard of recoomends allowing 18 of air under the deck boards. Once things start to grow there... 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          1. User avater
            Ricks503 | Oct 11, 2006 05:19pm | #9

            Since the ground is 3" below the level of the patio, if I allow 18" I would only need 1 step between deck and patio level - that would not be too bad.  I was thinking more of any problems with the deck lasting longer  if not attached to house and piers on ground rather than buried at or below the frost line. 

             

            " There'll be no living with her now" - Captain Jack Sparrow

          2. pickings | Oct 11, 2006 06:12pm | #10

            I was thinking more of any problems with the deck lasting longer  if not attached to house and piers on ground rather than buried at or below the frost line.

            Why?

            Whether the deck is attached to the house or not should not affect it's lifespan.

            Have seen "platform" decks (around campers, etc) that rest on solid conc blocks on grade with stone dust or sand beneth. If high enough to be vented properly, and designed like a stiff box, it should not be a problem.

          3. Piffin | Oct 12, 2006 12:27am | #11

            As long as you use the right support foundation, whether it is a couple on the outside or twice as many to support the inside, you are doing it the best way IMO. And the house is likely to last longer. Improperly done penetrations at that point are the most common cause of sill rot that I can think of 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

  2. Piffin | Oct 09, 2006 10:00pm | #2

    See if you can get 6x10 for the same cost. That will do you even better

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. CAGIV | Oct 10, 2006 04:55am | #3

      that's a lot of white oak...

      heavy...

       

    2. User avater
      MrSQL | Oct 11, 2006 12:16am | #5

      good idea, I think I'll try that.  since I already have the logs, and they are big enough, and I'm cutting them on my sawmill, cost is the same.  They will probably even be a bit lighter.

       

      Thanks,

      Roger <>< 

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