Replies

1. 
   RW | Sep 09, 2004 05:59am | #1

   Since I just did that last week -

   The last deck had 1/2" all thread going through some gargantuan holes and bolted to the blocking between the joists. It did hold, and it didn't bust the brick, but it looked awful and I share your concern with cracking the brick with too much pressure.

   I got a box of 1/2" redhead shielded bolts something like 3 1/2" long, tacked the ledger where I wanted it with Hilti pins into the mortar, then punched the holes through the ledger and into the brick. It was probably overkill, but I pumped the holes with epoxy before I stuck the shields in. My thinking - you always get a couple that won't seat. When the epoxy sets, an impact wrench will still tighten the bolt but the shield is set. That worked pretty good.

   "If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain

2. 
   Homewright | Sep 09, 2004 12:00pm | #2

   Have you considered doing a freestanding deck instead?  You'd have to change the framing configuration a bit and add another beam as you alluded to in your post but it can be done fairly easily without all the headaches of a somewhat tenuous attachment to the house not to mention, flashing.  You go drilling a bunch of holes in the brick and you're likely opening up access for water infiltration and a host of ills later.  This isn't to say you can't attach through the brick but in situations where one solution creates a new problem, I try to find the solution with the least invasive approach and the best results.  Just another .02 worth of thought...

1. 
   MojoMan | Sep 09, 2004 03:58pm | #3

   I'm with Homewright. Go with a free-standing deck if possible.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

3. 
   ed2 | Sep 09, 2004 08:25pm | #4

   what those guys said...    go w free standing deck, add couple sonotube piers w beam on house side    if brick wasn't properly underflashed w tarpaper, holes could cause big problems down the road, leakage, rot...

1. 
   mikevb | Sep 10, 2004 02:43am | #5

   I had already configured the framing like a freestanding deck, but to reduce the sway factor I still thought it would be good to anchor it to the house.

   Next problem - the deck will be built over a concrete slab that falls away underneath.  I had planned on cutting 1'x1' sections out and pouring piers with post anchors.

   I'd like to here others opinions on the posts as well.

   Thanks.

   MikeVB

1. 
   Homewright | Sep 12, 2004 02:03pm | #7

   Pick up some stand off mounting brackets to attach your posts to the slab.  They're in the Simpson hardware section and only need one hole drilled in the concrete in which you set a redhead anchor bolt and cinch down tight.  This allows about an inch below the bottom of the post to be out of contact with the slab and takes away the issue of moisture wicking up into the end grain.  Quick, easy, no cutting of the slab and hauling off of the chunks...  The only concern is the slab should be conventional thickness.

   csnow makes a good point about lateral bracing.  If you run diagonal bracing at the posts (post to underside or backside of rim joist), and block the field of the deck every 8' or so, you won't have a problem getting a nice rigid structure without having to perforate the brick on the house.

1. 
   dIrishInMe | Sep 12, 2004 03:03pm | #8

   Most slabs simply "float" on top of the subsoil.  Unless the slab extends below the frost line, the slab will need to be cut out such that footers can be installed that do down below the frost line.  Since I don't think we know what area he lives in, it's hard to say what needs to be done with the slab.  Further, a slab is not intended to be used to support the point load of a deck post.  Although using common sense I think that most of us might agree that a 4" slab might be fine for support of a smallish deck, (assuming no frostline) a building inspector is probably going to be looking for a concrete thickness of at least 6" or more. Matt

4. 
   csnow | Sep 10, 2004 02:53am | #6

   Freestanding is good.  Just be aware that it requires extra lateral bracing.