Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 04, 2009 01:50am | #1

   Notch it to fit on a joist, and use bolts.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.
1. 
   crossworx | Jun 04, 2009 03:52am | #2

   i can't. I have to mount the new post on top of the deck. i would loved to have knotched and bolted the new post.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 04, 2009 02:42pm | #3

   "i can't."

   Why not? I hate mounting posts to the deck & always find a way around it. If necessary, trim the end of the post down to a tenon, cut a corresponding hole in the deck, drop the tenon through, and add a crossbrace underneath to bolt it to.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 04, 2009 03:02pm | #4

   Can't?That's foreign to me (in most cases anyway, especially involving a deck).Like Mike said, cut the bottom of the newell down to a tenon, cut a square hole in the decking to fit the tenon. Place the hole so that the tenon slides down against a joist.Then drill the tenon and joist for bolts.Now If there's something Mike and I don't know....... give us more constraints, we (or others) might have more answers.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

1. 
   crossworx | Jun 05, 2009 03:54pm | #5

   i have old rotten 4x4's covered with 1x stock and painted. I will cut them off flush with the deck. Install new 4x4's to be covered with a pvc sleeve and pvc railing. All post sit up on top of the deck. The home owner does not want to replace decking or any other trim boards used and painted on the deck. Hence my fastening issues.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 05, 2009 04:42pm | #6

   Just don't give any guarantees. Sounds like trying to paint over the problem to me.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 05, 2009 07:46pm | #7

   I'll go out on a limb here, and say that the reason that you haven't seen any responses that meet your homeowner's request, is because there is no answer that meets their request.That is to say, unless the posts (that hold up the railings) continue through the flooring, and connect to framing, they will not be strong enough.Remember -- if you are the one who does something with these posts, and ten years later grandma falls through the railing and breaks her hip, the HO's insurance company is coming after you.And they'll likely win.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

3. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 05, 2009 07:53pm | #8

   Adding to what Yesmaam says, you need to remember these posts are required to resist 200 lbs lateral force to pass code.

   Where do these rotten posts go? Are they extensions of the support members? If so, just another reason to talk some sense into the HO.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

   Edited 6/5/2009 12:53 pm ET by MikeHennessy

4. 
   DonCanDo | Jun 05, 2009 10:03pm | #9

   Here's another thought, if the deck is big enough and you can spare the room:  set the new railing posts 1 - 2 feet in from where the old posts were and use a diagonal brace that runs to the location of the old posts.

5. 
   crossworx | Jun 06, 2009 03:13am | #10

   I do know the HO so i am going to tell them that I am going to look into running the posts through the deck and tie in below with bridging blocks and two through bolts.

6. 
   Piffin | Jun 07, 2009 05:34pm | #11

   "The home owner does not want"If you are doing this as a professional, then the day you touch it, you own the liability. You cannot allow the HO to dictate a situation that is unsafe so you need to educate them. This must be installed in such a way as to resist 200# lateral force. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   florida | Jun 08, 2009 08:05pm | #14

   Code doesn't allow notched post anymore.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 08, 2009 09:38pm | #15

   "Code doesn't allow notched post anymore."

   !?

   News to me -- what's it say now? All I was aware of was the 200# lateral load requirement.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

1. 
   florida | Jun 09, 2009 03:57am | #17

   Okay, serve me a dish of crow. When I think deck posts I think of four by fours and the IRC doesn't allow notching. My assumption would be that you could notch anything larger down to four by four since four by four is the minimum.

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Jun 09, 2009 03:14pm | #18

   Not trying to serve anything -- just curious. Didn't know the IRC limitation on notching -- I'd only known of the lateral force reqirement. Now, I'm ejukated! ;-)

   That said, I'd sooner notch a 4X4 than surface mount it. (And will continue to do so when necessary, code notwithstanding. Don't tell the BI, tho'!)Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.

2. 
   florida | Jun 09, 2009 11:17pm | #19

   I've notched more than I've surface mounted but now I'm trying to design the framing so I can accommodate surface mounting. I even asked the BI on my last deck about it and he was unaware of the no-notching rule and of the need for diagonal braces.

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Jun 08, 2009 10:10pm | #16

   I guess I'd be confused by that requirement.What if my posts were 10 X 10 , from #1 white oak. Does the code not allow me to notch those by one inch in each side -- leaving an 8X8 for attachment?Just sayin'

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

2. 
   robert | Jun 07, 2009 08:50pm | #12

   Remember............the LJ smith hardware is designed for hardwoods.

   And L mounting brackets or Rail bolts will very easily pull thru pressure treated lumber...........................

1. 
   crossworx | Jun 08, 2009 03:54pm | #13

   have you used the metal post with a metal base that screws to either brick or wood? it has a pvc sleeve that mounts over it and then a pvc rail system. i have looked at two different systems from two suppliers in my home town.