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Aaron, thats the way I’ve always done them too. Once we had a building inspector who wanted us to attach the stringers to the rim joist with joist hangers, & cut a little angled block to fill the void where the angled stringer meets the horizontal part of the hanger. Didn’t seem to work any better tho.
Mike.
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Replies
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Aaron, thats the way I've always done them too. Once we had a building inspector who wanted us to attach the stringers to the rim joist with joist hangers, & cut a little angled block to fill the void where the angled stringer meets the horizontal part of the hanger. Didn't seem to work any better tho.
Mike.
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I make the stringer one step longer and slip it under the rim joists to but up against the bottom of the decking. Then I lag it to an available joist or put in blocking if needed.
You've got to notch that extra top step to fit around the rim joist.
*Aaron:As you said, there's 2 ways to do it… Well, actually 3, plus Ryan's way (which I didn't fully understand but which sounds strong and is probably a variation on your method 1 below…1) Make the top tread down one riser from the deck boards. More difficult to attach stringers firmly to the rim board. Also, stair handrail comes in below the level of the deck handrail and doesn't look that good.2) Make top tread flush with decking material. This has the advantage of strong attachment to the rim board. Also, if the decking boards are running parallel to the stringers, you don't end up with end grain for your top step/edge of deck. Disadvantages are that the stair handrail doesn't come out right and you probably end up with a small piece of stair handrail at the top that is horizontal, necessitating an extra post bolted to the side of the stringer at the top riser - not good.3) Basically a variation on #2 but with a twist - my preferred method: Make the top tread flush with the decking material, but make the top tread roughly ½ the width of the others. Has all the advantages to #2, but the stair handrail comes out right where it meets the deck handrail.The above is based on a roughly 33" tall stair handrail and a 37" high deck handrail. Also, I assuming you are building with cut stringers rather than cleated or rabbeted. I was going to draw a picture, but decided that it was too much trouble. As far as the attachment of the stringers to the rim board, I always use joist hangers, 'L' brackets and/or a ledger strip. To me, it's all a matter of balancing style, strength and reasonable ease of construction. Of course, you gotta pick which method best fits your scenario.
*Since My description wasn't great, here's a sketchView ImageAnd I agree with Matt, make the first step at deck level if you can. I only drop the first step if there isn't enough room for the full run of stairs.
*I normally use 3x12 risers and treads. take the riser measure 2" down from each end, snap a line. scribe your 7-12 tred line down the riser from the chalk line. Cut your top and bottom, fasten you cleats on the one marked riser after you have used it for a template for the second. Level from your cleat to the unmarked riser, make a mark , backside of first cleat should be 2" out from top rim, fasten first tread 1"out from rim, this allows for facia later, and work your way down from the top, and no it ain't easy.If the span is over 4' we get to use 4x12 risers and treads and those pond dried pigs are heavy.If you get a less than perfect straight riser you get to use a jack strap to pull the two risers together while you fasten the treads.The steps should last forever. They are either back bolted or "l" bracketed to the rim.They are great for fastening your rail post to.
*Another option is to plan ahead. Lay out the posts for the deck to accomodate the ledger for your stringers and lag it on.David
*I'd like to see a picture of that...
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There's ten different ways to do what you want to do so you chose what works and looks best, plus, what you know best. Now, here's my question concerning decks, I could'nt come up with the formula to space balusters evenly in a rail length to save my life today, I guess the heat sucked the knowlege right out of me. Maybe you'll feel sorry for me and give it to me
*There's ten different ways to do what you want to do so you chose what works and looks best, plus, what you know best. Now, here's my question concerning decks, I could'nt come up with the formula to space balusters evenly in a rail length to save my life today, I guess the heat sucked the knowlege right out of me. Maybe you'll feel sorry for me and give it to me
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In addition to the methods listed, add a 3/4" treated- plywood hanger nailed to the back of the stringers.
*Hope this helps but it may be tough to see in the picture. I do not use stringers at the sides of the steps but a full 2x12 instead with cleats on the inside or sometimes stringers sistered against the 2x12.The sides of the steps are cut to rest right against the band joist so that, in effect, what you have is the deck floor like your top step, the band joist like the top riser and then regular steps and risers the rest of the way down.Pete
*Pete,Is there a stair on the deck in your picture?
*you can see a picture, Dan , on my web site under portfolio-stairs
*Ryan... I understood what you described perfectly, and I am impressed! you may have just taught an old dog a nifty new trick! GREG..... here is what I always do: measure between your posts. add the thickness of a spindle to that, divide by your intended nominal spacing + thickness of spindle, (if you want 4"spacing and have inch and a half spindles that would be 5-1/2 inches) take this number and round up, then divide the distance+spindle thickness by that number. this gives you your center to center or edge to edge spacing. to illustrate: Assume you have a post to post distance of 61-1/2" and you are using 2x2 spindles, code in your area requires a minimum of 4" between spindles, add the thickness of the spindle (1-1/2") to the distance (61-1/2") you get 63 inches . divide that by 5-1/2 (spacing plus spindle thickness) this would give you 11.454545...etc round up to 12, now divide 63 inches by 12 this gives you 5-1/4'" your spacing would be 5-1/4" on center. on stair railings you need to determine what spacing along the slope will work out the same as 4" horizontally. In my experience a 6" spacing and a spindle thickness of 1-7/8" usually works out when using 2x2s and 4" horizontal spacing. If this made absolutely no sense whatsoever to you, feel free to e-mail me and I can attempt to be a bit more lucid.
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I like extending the stringers to behind the band (rim) joist, notching them to fit into the bottom of the rim joist if it is 2x8 or larger, and adding blocking inside the deck frame to hang the stringers onto. The rim joist (top six inches or so) then is your first riser. Helps to do all of your stringer blocking and stringer attachment before applying decking if you decide to go this way. Also, agree with 2x12 skirt on outside, looks a lot better than showing stringers and riser edges.
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RE what John said:
"Also, agree with 2x12 skirt on outside, looks a lot better than showing stringers and riser edges."
I'm thinking that's more of a contemporary look than traditional look. Anyone have some thoughts on that?
*Wow! you really do use 3x12 treads. Where do you find them? and how much are they? They look great. I was a might bit confused when you refered to (what I call Horses or) stringers as "risers". I call the risers the backs of the stairs running perpendicular to the treads.You say you lag them together?
*Yup, you're right Pete,Impossible to see any stairs...
*I'm not sure that deck are very traditional at all really. But you can always mimic a particular style with whatever it is that you're trying to build. Craftsman/Mission and Japanese work well with Decks and Arbor and trellis work, but don't always fit on a Federal or Victorian house.As long as they're not ugly, I say go for it.Dan
*We purchase 3x12's from BMC West our local lumber store. Prices are as follows, 8'-$30.72 12'-$46.08 16'-$61.44 and 20'-$76.80 and I am sorry for calling my stringers risers, must have been the MGD.We use Simpson (TA10)stair cleats bolted with 1/4x1 1/4 hex head galv. lags.
*Dan,I'd like to see any pic's you have of japanese styled decks.Pete
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How do you all usually attach steps to the deck? Do you bring the first step out flush with the decking, or start your stringers down a step? I choose the latter and here is where my question really comes into play. When I nail the tops of my stringers to the band only the top inch or two is on the band.(confused yet?) My solution for this is to nail 2x? blocks on the inside of the band hanging down arond six inches below the band. I will then take and double 2x8's the width of the stairway and nail them onto the blocks. Basicaly, I am just hanging down a band for the purpose of supporting the stringer tops. This is the way I was taught to frame steps, and until recently no one ever questioned my method. I want to know how everyone else in the trades supports the tops of the stringers with out having to use posts underneath? TIA, hope you all can follow what I'm trying to say w/o a picture.