Deck Tub: the question keeps popping up between tilers and plumbers.
should the edges of the deck tub rest on the tiles or on the substrate
The plumber maintains that the tub warranty is void is the tub edges rest on the tiles (I don’t quite see why as the base of the tub has blocks resting on the subfloor, stabilzed with a mortar or foam).
The Tiler, obviously, wants to place his tiles under the edges( especially with a round tub.
any thoughts…
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A little opposite of your situation are tile setters do not warranty tub decks if we set a tub on top of the tile, there reason is, add enough weight inside the tub, it could push down on the tile and pop them up.
I would think if they did their job properly this would not be an issue.
The plumber is actually the one giving me the argument of the cracked tiles. The tile setter is Ok with it as long as I fill the tub when I set in in the mortar.
Vreni
I have a hard time trying to understand either argument, for one, any drop in jetted tub I've seen, all come mounted to a piece of plywood, which rests on the floor, so the lip shouldn't be carrying the load.
The tricker part is figuring out just how thick the tile/thinset would be to ensure the lip was not supporting the tub, Ideally I'd like to see a small, roughly 1/16" gap between the tile and bottom edge of the lip, which could be caulked in a color to match. Best of both worlds, the tub is resting on the ground and the tile is under the lip and not exposed.
Let's be clear; the lip can touch the deck, maybe even bare on it slightly. Ya just can't put all of the tub weight on the edges. The thickness of the material is not designed to carry the weight long term.
Advocate
This is the best scenario and the view of the tile setter.
Vreni
READ THE TUB INSTALL INSTRUCTIONS.
Every single one I've ever seen says the edges are not designed to carry weight.
Advocate
I just installed one of these recently. It came mounted on a pair of 2x runners, but I've done them with plywood bottoms also. I built the tub deck and installed the CBU and tile over it to the height indicated on the instructions +1/8". I mixed up a batch of Structo-lite plaster and skim-coated the floor inside the tub hole about 1/4" thick. Two of us put the tub in the hole and put a little weight on it to bring the rim down very close to the tile, just a hair above. After the plaster dried I caulked under the rim to the tile.
The key is to make sure that whatever is under the floor does not deflect, so that little or no weight is on the rim. If the floor were underframed I would be concerned.
Edit--you could cut the tile around the tub, but it would be quite hard to make it look as good as it does when the tub is mounted over. You'd also have a joint prone to leaking water that way.
Edited 2/9/2006 2:11 am by davidmeiland
Dogs got me up too early today. I like to leave the rim a hair clear of the substrate, caulked where the rim meets the ply. Then I cement board around the tub and caulk that. Then I tile around the tub and matching caulk that. Seems to me this way is a little more water protected than just sitting the tub on top of the tile. It is a PITA to do. I personally think it usually looks better than a tall rim lip aabove the tile.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!