difference in regular drout and epoxy?
popawheelie
| Posted in General Discussion on
I worked with regular sanded and non sanded grout but have never used epoxy grout.
Does it have a lot more of an adhesive quality to it?
Is it more flexible when it is dry?
I’ve read here that it very difficult to get off of porcelain tile after it is dry.
So if it sticks to porcelain it has a lot more strength and adhesive to it than regular.
I’m thinking of using it to fill some shallow defects on some oil enamel paint.
If I use it I could clear coat it afterwards.
I’d really appreciate some input on it. Thanks!
“There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves.“
Will Rogers
Will Rogers
Replies
Why not spackle or Minwax wood filler for that kind of work - that's what those are made for and they work well.
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Let me exsplain. I've been building a steel fence and have distressed some of the steel with a grinder, impact hammer chisel, and an impact drill bit.
I've settled on a traditional color of semi-gloss black and have two coats on the first panel and posts.
Now I want to rub on another color and then buff off the eccess so it stays in the nooks and crannies.
At King architetual metal they sell gilders paste just for this purpose.
http://www.gilderspaste.com/
But, it is $18 for a 4 oz can. They say a 3 oz container covers over 30 square feet.
I have about 80' of fence to do. All I need to do is gild the places that show.
So I was talking to an artist friend yesterday and she came up with grout.
Grout would fill the nooks and I could buff off the eccess. It comes in different colors.
I have to clear coat the guilders paste anyway.
So why not grout? And as long as I'm doing it why not epoxy grout?
So, there it is.
I've never used epoxy grout. Is it that much tuffer and water resistant?
I don't feel that regular grout would bond very well to oil based semi-gloss paint.
Should i just get the giders paste?
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Edited 7/20/2009 12:56 am by popawheelie
I"m having a hard time visualizing your situation, but it sounds like an application for bondo to me.View Image bakersfieldremodel.com
The epoxy grout I have used has fine silica in it which gives it a sanded finish which doesn't sound good for what you describe.I have found it to be very adhesive. I use C cure epoxy grout which is also appropriate to use as a tile adhesive.From everything I have read, Epoxy does not like UV light so it needs to be topcoated with a polyurethane if you want to leave it outside.Hope this helps,
Karl
Knowing that, I'ds say it might work, but it will likely bond do the oil paint better than the oil paint is bonded to the metal base. That can mean it peels the paint away from the metal.May not be all that bad since you are trying for a distressed look anyways.Butone problem you will have with that sort of project is that I see it being a slow process. Epoxy grout kicks in 15-20 minutes, and you aain't buffiung anything off once an hour passes
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Once again, thanks for the help. I went ahead and ordered the exspensive paste.
I'll get some clear semi-gloss as well to top coat it. "There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
What Karl said....
There's sand in grout. And if you want unsanded epoxy, then you could just buy some epoxy.
Actually, I think "fortified" grout might be the ticket. Not epoxy, but a 2-part product with a similarly limited working time. We put some on some textured tile and had a heck of a time cleaning the excess out of the textured surface. I would think it would work about right in your situation.
Note that the "sand" in grout isn't ordinary sand, but is much finer.
just get the gilders paste
don't screw around with the epoxy grout, that is not what it is designed for
I'll contact the gilders paste people and see how much I'll need.
I'm cheap in certain ways. It doesn't make sense, really.
On some things I'll spend like a drunken sailor.
But if I feel I'm being taken to the cleaners, I'll squeeze a nickle till the Buffalo cries.
You ever seen a buffalow cry? It's not pretty.
"There are three kinds of men: The one that learns by reading, the few who learn by observation and the rest of them have to pee on the electric fence for themselves."Will Rogers
Well now the grout is probably not the best way to proceed. Remember it has a good deal of solvency in the activator and that would most likely cause a bit of an uplift problem and not all epoxy grout has UV stabilizers within so it will yellow and give you some issue. I echo the call for Bondo , but there are some so called single part waterborne epoxies think floor paints that would be quite effective. They often will have a primer to help with bonding and to prevent uplift. For the clear epoxy, You might think West Systems or Abatron with some universal tint to create the color tone. The grouts from Mapei, and Laticrete are excellent, and bond tenaciously to gosh darn near everything.