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Do I still need a catch basin for sink?

housenut1 | Posted in General Discussion on April 24, 2009 07:07am

The footings of a screened porch I plan to have built intersect an old catch basin and I have to remove it. If the 15 x 10 porch could project further than the 10 feet required by Chicago code I would miss the darn thing. 

The kitchen sink is the only line draining into it; the gutters no longer do. I plan to route the kitchen sink drain ~ eight feet along the joists in the basement with a 1/4 per foot pitch and tie into a T on the existing 2.5 to three inch drain line going into the soil stack.  The T would be within a foot of the soil stack but it’s a 90.  I would install a cleanout also.  

A few plumbers said it can work but  one plumber said the best way would be to go directly into the soil stack.  If I choose this route the only consolation is that the renovated bathroom I am doing will get new supply lines and drains all in the area of the soil stack so now is the best time to do this.  I am getting too old and bald to do any more jobs twice.

If the direct way is the given answer then, how difficult is it to remove a three foot section of cast iron soil stack? Are they made with more than one drain opening into them?  I’m curious to see what suggestions you may have and also what other concerns I may be missing.

Also, if I bury the catch basin how do I plug the six inch drain? Would I cut the bell off and put a neoprene type device on it?

P.S. We will not be installing a garbage disposal but do not cook with a lot of grease etc.

Mike

 

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Replies

  1. calvin | Apr 24, 2009 02:46pm | #1

    Mike,

    I have no answer for you, but this will bump your post up.

    I do have a question about your "catch basin".  I see you're in Chicago.  There was a post here a while back that mentioned a Chicago catch basin.  I am not familiar with this type of plumbing install in a residence.  Here in NW Oh.

    Was this a set up similar to the grease traps we see here in restaurants?  Meant to separate out grease from going into the sewer system?   Man, in a restaurant setting that is one stinky thing.

    thanks.

    As far as cutting cast-it can be done but there's a tool that snap cuts it.  Remember to consider the wgt above as you work.  You can insert sections of pvc using fernco couplings.  That should take care of your hook up stacking whatever cleanouts and y's you need.

    A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    http://www.quittintime.com/

     

    1. housenut1 | Apr 25, 2009 06:10am | #5

      Thanks for the tips.  It is one messy pit which is outside homes for just that purpose.  When I was younger our dog fell into it and my father had to reach in there and pull her out, yuck!

      Mike

  2. DanH | Apr 24, 2009 02:59pm | #2

    Some codes require a "grease trap" on the kitchen sink. I think that's mainly where septic tanks are used, though.

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
    1. housenut1 | Apr 25, 2009 06:12am | #6

      Thanks, I'll check into it.

      Mike

  3. wane | Apr 24, 2009 03:33pm | #3

    that sink run is too long, shorten or it or use a bigger pipe, someone else familiar w code in Chicago will comment ..

  4. rdesigns | Apr 24, 2009 05:13pm | #4

    Give us who are ignorant of Chicago plumbing practice a little help: What is the purpose of the catch basin? How were they built? Are they meant to be cleaned out regularly? Do they receive drainage from roofs or other surface water? Are they for grease separation?

    As for running the KS line into the existing 2" line (inside diameter, from the way you describe it), that would be OK, but the new branch should enter the existing line via a wye fitting, not a tee, if the the existing line is horizontal. If it's vertical, then a tee fitting would be acceptable, but a wye would still be better for snaking.

    The 8-foot distance is no problem at all, especially if the new line will be plastic--I recently had to cut into my own 2"  plastic kitchen sink line that also runs about 8' horizontally, and was pleased to see absolutely no build-up of any kind of crud. The line has been in service for 30 years, and we use our share of grease, fat and oil, coffee grounds, etc. If the line had been cast iron, it would have been mostly closed off.

    If you cut into the stack, a snap cutter is the best, but if one is not available, it is possible to cut with a Sawzall, although you could go through several blades in the process. You would then use Fernco or similar neoprene connectors to fit in plastic wyes or tees that give you the new branches.

     

    1. housenut1 | Apr 25, 2009 06:28am | #7

      From my understanding, catch basins are mainly used for grease seperation, soap, etc. One of our gutters also runs into it.  They are outside and about 6-7 feet deep and about 30-36 inches ID.  Built out of concrete block.  When we first moved in a plumber friend of mine said to scoop it out yearly for maintenance.  I have done that but not as regularly as I should have.

      Thanks for the reassurance and correcting me. I will have a plumber tie into the 2.5 or 3 inch ID pipe as suggested.

      Mike

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