This is direct from the installation instructions on Andersen’s web site for their 200 series tilt-wash windows (it’s the same as the paper that came with the windows when they were delivered).
They have you flash the sill OVER the flange – I would have thought it would go under. The rest makes sense.
The longer length of these 3-in. stair gauges makes it easier to ensure an accurate layout when working with waned lumber.
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Read the first line " one of MANY' proper"..I do it that way on my installs here on my house, if a GC or a coustomer wants it different than what is called "proper" by the maunfacturer, we talk.
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The idea is to seal the flange against air leakage. Hopefully there's no way for water to get behind the sill flange, so taping over it should be OK.
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I just installed Anderson 400's on my house and they came with the same instructions. I read 'em just for sh1ts and giggles and thought the same thing. I made a 'pan' out of the Tyvek and then taped over the flanges as directed. Figure that if I ever had a warranty issue, it would be best not to give them any ammo. Also scanned the installation instructions onto the computer in case it ever became an issue.
If you ever do have a problem though, you'll be glad you bought Andersons. I've been tremendously pleased with their customer service.
I was once framing a house in Wellesley, MA. My framing gun skipped the plate while nailing a wall together on the deck. The nail shot across the street and went through the first pane of glass in the picture window of the house across the street. It didn't break the second pane, so it was just sitting there trapped in between the two. I talked to the home owner and he said that they were all one year old Anderson windows. So I called my rep and he came out to have a look. He asked if we were using Anderson's on the house we were currently framing. When I told him yes, he didn't charge me anything for the replacement across the street and his own techs performed the labor. Can't ask for more than that.
A few years ago, a guy called mne to ask if I would change out his 4' x 5' andersen picture window glass. He alrady had the glass from them so I agreed. It was thirtyu years old but the new went in like a dream - every thing fit fine. I was flabbergasted when he told me that Andersen had provided the glass for free and would have done the labourt for a minimal fee except for the travel cost to the island.
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What is really starting to look weird to me is that I spelled it "wierd"...
I had a similar experience with Jeld Wen. My sixteen-year-old house had five failed windows. I contacted Jeld Wen, expected them to tell me "Sorry you're not the original homeowner". They sent me five replacement sashes and glass for under a grand including shipping! Threw in some new hardware to boot!
I pan the sill with strips of I&W, flash the jacks and headers with felt, install the windows (Andersens usually), AND then flash over the flanges (with vycor or strips of I&W). Will also bring the housewrap down over the outermost layer of header flashing. Think like a raindrop.
Andersen is not the only window manufacturer that uses the same system as shown.
The only thing which looks different from some other manufacturers is the top of the vertical tape / flashings are usually illustrated as being covered by the head jamb tape. Taping order is usually bottom first, then both sides, top is last.
Like some others have said - following the manufacturer's instructions / suggestions is always a good idea if there are ever any warranty issues.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.