Working on an old house with mortise style door hardware. I need to replace this hardware with modern style hardware. Any suggestions on the best way to fill the mortise cavities?
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With new mortise locks of course!
That would make my life too easy. New hardware is bought, paid for and unreturnable.
Something that large I believe will require a dutchman, especially since it will be an area of stress.
Cut a piece of 1x to the dimension of the mortice. This should give you an 1/8" play which you'll divide 1/16" each side. You can use poplar but I use fir from 2xs.
Screw 2 sheetrock screws to one edge - the outermost side. Outermost edge should not be flush with door. It should be shallow of door edge. Bondo will make up the difference.
Then, mix up a batch of Bondo. One door at a time. Minwax has a wood version if you prefer to use that. Don't over do it with the hardener or it will set up before you have time to apply it.
Apply it to the interior of the mortise and all over the filler block.
Insert filler block into mortise and hope for squeeze-out. Adjust with the sheetrock screws as grips/ handles.
Let dry. The apply more Bondo to the door face to cover those holes.
Note: Squeeze-out which is proud of door should be trimmed flush while Bondo is still a bit soft using a utility knife blade (without knife). Keep sanding to a minimum and only after everything has completely dried - next day.
Hope this helps,
Frankie
Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.
Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
Arabella Weir as Minty Marchmont - Posh Nosh
Thanks, I'll try that. I've removed two sets of hardware and have found two different cavity sizes. (a lot like my teeth). The mortices were pretty crudely hacked out with a chisel and are irregularly shaped. Is the Bondo able to bridge gaps of 1/2 or so?
I've used epoxy for the same purpose. It can bridge the gaps. You will need a filler/thickner. Sounds strange but plain flour (think biscuits) works. You can also use very fine saw dust.
Bondo and I just do not work...guess I always use too much hardener or working in the summer when it is really hot may cause my problems. Never failed using epoxy though.
Those old mortises WERE hand cut--probably in the field at the time of installation.
If you have access to a Porter-Cable lock mortiser, you can re-work the mortises to a nice and smooth pocket and THEN plug them with Titebond glue and wood. After the glue has dried, bore the doors for the new hardware.
"Is the Bondo able to bridge gaps of 1/2 or so? "I do not think that's a good idea. Rather than use 1x material, use a 2x and cut it 1/8" thinner than the mortise width. The filler material does not have to be smooth (probably best that it is not) and can even be uneven since you'll be cutting it from both sides on a table saw.Plain and simple - The wider the gap is, the harder the time you'll have filling it.As for it hardening too soon, limit the amount of hardener you use. You'll figure it out pretty easily.Also, do not try to fill the face holes and the mortise in the same batch. A complete patch will require a few applications.Frankie
Flay your Suffolk bought-this-morning sole with organic hand-cracked pepper and blasted salt.
Thrill each side for four minutes at torchmark haut. Interrogate a lemon.
Embarrass any tough roots from the samphire. Then bamboozle till it's al dente with that certain je ne sais quoi.
Arabella Weir as Minty Marchmont - Posh Nosh
Rather than bondo, I seem to remember using Durham's one time. Haven't had a call back
I think I've got a pretty good handle on this now. Appreciate all the input.