My truss-framed attic currently has only a small access panel in a bedroom closet. I’d like to install a drop-down ladder between two of the truss cords (no, I won’t cut them!) to create easier access. I know adding lots of weight up there is not a good idea…. we just need a place to store sweaters and such in the off-season.
There is a bearing wall mid-span. Is it best if the bearing point of the ladder is located near this wall?
Is this a good idea? Bad idea? Any tips?
Many thanks.
Replies
The title of your post refers to your trusses as "Attic Trusses". But I suspect that's not actually the case, since there's currently no access.
Just to make sure we're talking about the same thing - An attic truss looks like this:
http://www.wsitruss.com/trs39.asp
It should have larger than normal chord sizes - Probably a 2X6 top chord and a 2X8 bottom chord. (Or larger)
A "common" truss should look like this:
http://www.wsitruss.com/trs07.asp
Typically they have 2X4 top and bottom chords. And they typically aren't designed for added storage loads, such as you are proposing.
I wouldn't suggest adding storage in your trusses unless they're really attic trusses, or were designed for added loads on the bottom chords. You might get away with it, depending on how much stuff you put up there, and if the wall under the trusses really is bearing. But it's not a good idea.
Put your hand on a hot stove for a minute, and it seems like an hour. Sit with a pretty girl for an hour, and it seems like a minute. THAT'S relativity. [Albert Einstein]
Thanks Boss. They are indeed regular (2x4) trusses. They just happen to be located in my attic.
Based on my reading of your past commentary, I had suspected that this might be your answer.
To put it in some perspective, what are the risks involved if I do add a load to the trusses... are we talking catastrophic?
Thanks.
RG
"what are the risks involved if I do add a load to the trusses... are we talking catastrophic?
Possibly - But probably not. I would be more inclined to say you might possibly have some problems with the trusses sagging, cracking drywall, or something like that. Total collapses are pretty rare.
Based on my "past commentary"as you said, you probably know I'm pretty conservative on engineering issues. I try to not be a "by the book" type, but give realistic answers. (Which I think I've done with your question)
You might very well be O.K. by adding storage to your trusses. You say the wall under them is bearing - But there's no way I can tell that. I'd have to know a great deal more about the trusses to make any kind of determination. So I'm being conservative and suggestinmg that you NOT do the storage thing. Putt's Law: Technology is dominated by two types of people: those who understand what they do not manage, and those who manage what they do not understand.
I am also considering the installation of an attic ladder on the second floor of my house as my wife's Christmas decorations are consuming too much precious garage space. The attic construction on my 25 year home uses 2 by 6 joists. A neighbor of mine simply laid 1/2" plywood on the joists and stored furniture and other heavy items. Needless to say, there was obvious sagging and cracks in the drywall. I am considering adding sister joists and running 2 by 4's perpendicular to the joists as an added way of distributing the load. On the 2 by 4's I plan to install 3/4" plywood. My question, is it necessary to add sister joists and should they run the entire length of the existing joists? What other precautions should I take? Thanks for your advice.
Not really enough info to make any sort of a judgement call. things like the species, grade, and spacing, and span of the 2X6s for starters. Regardless of how much patience we have, we would prefer never to use any of it.
Sounds just about like what I'm going to do.
Appreciate anyone's input. I too need some additional storage space, so I'm in process of framing a new closet in our baby's room so I can combine her closet and ours into ####walk in closet.
As part of the project, I am adding a ladder on the wall in the walk in, covered by a hinged shelving unit so we can put storage in the attic. I'd also love to put some above my garage, but it's a 30' span here, and I know that would be stupid.
I also have common trusses, but I'd like input on my framing plan.
The house is a ranch style w/ a basement. 32' x 76' Including the garage. Straight truss roof, rafters on 2' centers. Under the storage floor there is a hallway & closet walls. None of these walls need to be bearing walls, and probably aren't.
Framing plan. Lay a floor of 10' 2x6's on 16" centers perpendicular to the trusses and fastened to the rafters w/ strong tie rafter brackets. This ties everything together, adds strength (and weight), and allows me to add more blown in celulose (about 9" total, right now I have 5" or less). I had realized I may get some drywall cracking.
What other problems do you think this would cause?
Thanks for any input.
Bill
P.S. I've been going through the attic sealing all holes I can find (which is a lot), so I've moved a lot of insulation around and looked at things. All the walls in the house are framed up flush w/ the bottom of the rafters. All walls are 2x4 framed, I think all are 16" O.C..
Oh, different? I also think I'll put a layer of mylar heat barrier under the plywood. I have two big rolls I found at a thrift store of 4mil perforated mylar. Still in the box w/ the overnight shipping labels on them. They had no idea what they were, and I couldn't give them $10 fast enough. But, used here would this really gain me anything?
Thanks again.
I'll shut up now.
"Some minds are like concrete; all mixed up and permanently set."
First - Don't confuse trusses with rafters. They're not the same thing at all. The thing you're referring to as a "rafter" appears to be the top chord of your trusses.
What you're doing is adding a lot of loading to trusses that weren't designed for it. The exact problems it might cause are impossible to determine. But what you're doing is a bad idea. No doubt about it.Rose-colored glasses are never made in bifocals. Nobody wants to read the small print in dreams. [Ann Landers]
My advice to everyone above who would like to create useful storage space in their attic:
hire a structural engineer to calculate the loads and to provide you with the answers that you are looking for here.
This sort of thing is their specialty, and NO ONE should give structural advice sight-unseen because this is the kind of thing that really needs to be dealt with face-to-face.
My experience with the same thing was this:
1) the engineer took measurements of everything, span, spacing, age of wood, location of load bearing members, wood species and size, and so on.
2) they went to their office and after one or two weeks provided me with a design, including my requests and the result of our discussions. The design showed me how to proceed and informed me the correct maximum sq ft loading of the new structure.
whole thing cost about $1000 (which included answering a bunch of questions for a few other projects I'm planning for later) and I felt it was well worth it.
- peace of mind
- great sales point for later
As I proceeded with my work, I could call this resource and get informed answers to any questions that came up.
I highly recommend proceeding like this when you are thinking of adding storage to your attic.
Thanks for the input. Guess I need to get more input before I do anything. Maybe this weekend I'll draw it up so I can get a better handle on things.
Now as to the difference between trusses and rafters. I've always used these terms interchangably and haven't the slightest clue what the difference is between the two. Any help on my education here would be appreciated.
As far as the next posts suggestion to talk to a structural engineer. Great idea, but if I had $1000 to spend on it, I'd start building my shop in the back yard and move my workshop out of the garage. Actually, I'd need about $3000. Oh well.
Just a poor boy w/ way more I'd like to do then money to do it.
Trusses are fastened together with metal plates. Typically they're 2X4 chords on residential trusses. They virtually always have webs (braces) in them.
Rafters are typically 2X6 and larger. They're cut on site, and almost always have a ridge board or beam. There may be a collar tie, but there are no other supports running around in the attic otherwise.
No one likes to hear that they're in over their head, but I believe you are. You need to get some assistance with something like this.Science without religion is lame. Religion without science is blind. [Albert Einstein]
Glub......Glub.......Glub....
Thanks, I will get some more help before I build anything.
This project is still a ways down my list anyway. Just saw this thread and jumped in.
I lucked into a great house for a great price because it was a repo and had been abused & neglected. I'd hate to do anything