Hi all,
Redoing the bathroom in master BR. There is a crack in the bedroom side wall which I have patched a number of times. Since I gutted the bathroom, I see the doubled two by fours of the topplate, in other words the framing parrallel to the floor. Two of the bottom 2x’s of this topplate meet with no stud underneath that joint. I was thinking by adding a stud beneath this joint while the wall is open, I may be able to stop the drywall cracking in the future. Am I wasting my time?
Kevin
Lighting up an exterior isn't just about ambiance— it's also about code compliance. Here is what the code says about safety and efficiency when it comes to outdoor lighting.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Adding a stud in all likelihood can't do you any harm but I think you'll need a few more specifics to get a sound answer as to your cracking...
This is a sheetrock crack? Is the crack vertical on the seam between two sheets? Is it an unsupported joint? How have you patched it in the past?
That crack.... running vertically... or horizontal. Also, can it be assumed that its cracking where 2 sheets of sheetrock join?
If its vertical, and you can see into the wall from the bathroom, do the two sheets of sheetrock break on the stud? ( Join together on a stud>)
GoodLuck
seems like you're saying the bottom half of the top plate is composed of two seperate 2X4s butting together under the top 2x4. And you're drywall joint doesn't fall over a stud.;
Wouldn't hurt to add a stud for the two drywall boards to screw to. I suppose a butt-hanger at the joint would also work.
I would suspect that removing the drywall screws from the top plate would help the most, IOW allowing the rock to simply float over the top plate rather than be attached to it. It is probably the movements of the top plate (the butting 2x4s) which is causing your crack, if the sheets are attached to the butted 2x4s that they respectively fall over. I have heard of drywallers hanging their board without screwing to the top plate, to keep celieng to wall intersections from developng cracks down the road. I do it and don't have problems.
Anyone know how to attach pictures to the post?
Kevin
haven't posted a pic in a while...but I think if you hit 'Attach Files' on that row of blue buttons, same as where 'Post' is, you can do it. Make sure the pic is properly sized- I think around 500K, but I don't know. Hitting 'Attach Files' will bring up a window with this in it-
If you press Browse, be sure to select Files of Type: All Files from the resulting dialog box or you won't see any graphic files.
1. Enter Filename to upload:
2. Now press
3. If you are done attaching file(s), press
test for pictures
Hey it works.
What's that question about the beer can on the upper left again?
Edit. Er... right I mean.
Edited 1/10/2006 10:31 pm ET by TomC
Finally! I don't know what you mean by beer can upper left, I just know beer sounds good right about now. Thanks all for your help.Kevin
That rock looks like it was brokenn before it was srewed in place to begin with.The top platres are not nailed together so that might amplify thingsUse six screws and run three up into each top plate each side of the butt.Cut the broken SR out so there is about a 3/8" gap. From the back side - in the wall, glue a scrap of plywood or 2x8 in place or even a 1x10 - something to span the gap and stabilixe the SR. You can run some SR screws into the SR on either side of the crack to the scrap behind.Use Durabond to fill gap and first coat, then finiishing compound to final it.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I had to read your suggestion 2-3 times to figger out what you meant in line 4. Now I got it ... you mean widen the crack to about 3/8" and screw a splice across the back side of the crack. Sounds like a good plan. Have to wonder why they went ahead and instalkled a broken piece the first time.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
hope this works. pictures of the problem.
thanks
kevin
My guess as to problem:
The wall top plate is moving in relation to the top plate doubler when the door is opened and closed. Since the door jamb is only fastened to the stud it moves the framing somewhat when opened / closed / slammed. Since the top plate moves in relation to the top plate doubler the drywall eventually cracked at the diagonal break shown.
My guess at solution:
Refasten the two top plates to each other, add a butt / splice block below the existing top plate in the bay with the joint.
Adding additional stud may help (probably can't hurt), but I think the real issue is the door framing moving in relation to the top plate doubler which is anchored to the joists above.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.