When using a electric floor warming mat under tiles with the Schluter membrane I assume the mat is placed between the membrane and the tiles, how is the mat fastened in place and are there any issues with the heat and the Schluter membrane.
Is this type of floor heat enough to stand alone as a heat source for a bathroom
8′ x12′ with a 30″ by 8′ heating mat.
George
Replies
I think it would be held by the moarter (yeah I spelt it wrong). I belive you put some on the bottom of the mat and on the top.
Andy - not a tiler
It takes studs to build a house
I have found that using heating mats that they need to be stapled down to help with the tile installation and I would think not to staple through the Schluter products to keep their waterproof properties.
George
The best way to attach the heat mat is with a hot glue gun. Use the yellow rods, not the white.
BTW, a hot glue gun is probably one of the most inexpensive tools you can buy and, while they're not used frequently by most of us, they're pretty handy at times.
Most of the heat mats I have installed have been Warmly Yours and getting the element wires to lay flat is difficult without the heat gun method, which was suggested to me by their customer service people who, BTW, are top notch.
I've also installed heat mats in custom shower floors; for those and other wet areas you will need to purchase and install, at additional cost, a 24 volt transformer.
isn't the yellow stick carpenters glue (wood glue)
It takes studs to build a house
Edited 12/31/2007 12:37 am ET by andyfew322
I've installed NuHeat mats a few times with Schluter shower kits. I always do the following;
a)first flash the wood with a damp sponge
b)then I using a 1/8 v-notch trowel and spread Kerabond thinset where the mate will go (work fast as the thin layer of thinset can set/dry fast)
c)be careful with the temperature sensor as it can create a very small bulge in the floor. You may want to cut away a small hole for the sensor
d)Once you have spread the thinset down lay the Ditra mat down and press it everywhere. I usually walk on it slowly everywhere with small steps. You can see the orange start to get dark.
e)Once the mat is down you can go right into laying your tile
f)I usually use a chalk like to get my angles/lines and then spray the chaulk with hairspray so the line stays there
g)Now go ahead and use the same thinset again and lay the tiles
h)Remember to check adhesion on your first two tiles and if required back butter for better adhesion. If the thinest starts to get thick remix to aerate for better spreading ability. Have fun and happy tiling...
Andy;
A hot glue gun uses solid glue sticks that are melted in the little pistol-style gun.
The yellow glue sticks melt at a higher temperature setting on the gun and adhere better than the white sticks, which are mostly used for paper, fabric, leather and the like.
Yeah I know I have a glue gun
Yeah I've been using the white, now I think ill switch
It takes studs to build a house
I am assuming you've seen the video portion at this web link.http://www.schluter.com/6_1_ditra_maintenance.aspxDennis
I got my I dea from
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/videos/index.aspx?id=71538&c=4
and by the way, It's not me installing it
It takes studs to build a house
The heat mat goes between the membrane and the tiles.
A hot glue gun as previously mentioned is a good way to secure it.
I have also set the wiring in mortar.
When setting the tiles in mortar I just skimmed over them, I was using a 1/2" trowel to set tiles in after the wiring was ran. No lump in the floor.
The heat is great, but I am not sure if it will be enough to heat an entire bathroom. You'll be able to tell where the mat is when walking across the floor if you don't mat the whole thing.
Woods favorite carpenter
Edited 12/31/2007 6:34 am ET by MattSwanger
Each manufacturer has extremely detailed instruction as to every detail of installing the mats. Generally, some material, such as thin-set, is specified for embedding the mats.
No, the mats are NOT usually enough for heating the room. As a supplimental heat source, they are wonderful - but they are not intended as a replacement for a 'real' heat source.
Thanks to everyone for all the info.
So #1 Floor mats are not enough to heat the room overall
#2 install Ditra mat first then glue heating mats to Ditra with glue gun
#3 install tiles over mats with non modified thin set.
IN this bathroom the client would like to avoid the standard curb between the shower and the bathroom floor, it is a big shower with 42" by 84" without a shower door and entrance at one end. They would like the shower glass to rest on the bathroom floor.
I would like to think that I could raise the un-showered floor with a extra 3/4" plywood to allow for drainage slope in the shower, cover the un showered floor with Schluter Ditra, water proof seams.
Wire mesh the shower area dry pack the slope, install Schluter kerdi and drain kit, use Kerdi to over lap the un showered Ditra mat then lay floor heat mats on the un showered floor and tile over all.
I am open to suggestions and as always this forum is a great idea builder.
George
According to Schluter, the DITRA goes on top of the heating element :
http://www.schluter.com/5570.aspx
View Image
I can not thank you enough. I had missed that info on their web site as it was off my screen to the right.
Again thank you.
George
Glad I could help George. I had the site bookmarked as I plan on doing the same in my bathroom.cheers - mark
Having done this with Schluter Ditra, here is what worked for us.
Do the heating stuff right atop the subfloor. We used EasyHeat, which is a cable arrangement fixed down with any means you like. Their website shows various means, and the sell the spacer/holders you can staple to the floor to contain an align the looping cable at the looparound ends.
This all in place, a floor leveling compound is used to bring the surface up just proud of the cable and fastenings. Use one of the good ones from Laticrete or other manufacturers. These pour into place like heavy cream and level quite easily.
NOW you are ready to do your Ditra and tile. Total thickness from subfloor to bottom of your tile should be 1/2" to 5/8".
For us, the cabling was easier to run than the products that have the cabling prefixed to a mat. You can arrange your spacing to be tighter where required, such as along outside walls and under windows, and readily get it right around the toilet flange, etc.
There is a video you can download and watch over at the best tiling website on the web (John Bridge) showing all this happening.
Make sure you test the circuit for continuity AFTER the SLC and BEFORE tiling.
Jeff