electric tile warmers – input please
Customer wants heat in the tile floor of a bathroom I am working on. Not primary heat source – there is a forced air duct in the space but it is at the end of a long run and does not throw much heat – so they want to have me install electric heat under the tile. I have never dealt with this before. The homeowner mentioned the heat cable attached to the mesh sold at Home Depot and another that clips into plastic retainers you fasten to the floor sold at Menard’s. The bathroom is approximatley 9.5 by 9.5 feet in size. The subfloor is 3/4″ tongue and groove plywood sturdyfloor over 16″ on center joists. The tile will be small mesh attached octagon tiles that are about 1/4 inch thick.
I would like any advice anyone has on products and installation techniques.
Thanks in advance.
The still lurking,
Shoeman
Replies
same subject - I am considering trying to put some additional heat in the floor of my basement - existing poured slab - would have to put heat on it
any ideas
You might want to look at NuHeat. They make an electric blanket that is thinset under the tiles. It is carried by most of the real tile stores in our area (not HD). We installed this under slate over Wonderboard in our own master bathroom (forced air also feeds the room) to warm our feet on early mornings. Works great! Get the expensive thermostat.
Dean - California
DH installed ours. LOVE IT. Used the clip & wire product as it was a whole lot cheaper than the prewired grid. More math involved, though. One caveat, you start with a nice level floor, then add the clips & wire, and bingo, no more level (the clips sit up higher than the wire). Didn't want to risk pulling up the nice wire layout while trying to adjust the tiles, so he mortared in the wire first. Good thing because it required a lot of finessing to get them level again. I'm sure a tile pro could do it all in one step, but this worked for us since it was our first installation.
As much as I'd love to do a larger area (say, the kitchen floor someday), I think it might be a bit labor intensive. However, it's the only way to go in a retrofit.
Somebody should come along soon and give you the details you're needing.
I did quite a bit of research on this as I am doing this under a tile floor in my new kitchen. I am going with the cable system called Warm Tiles from company called EasyHeat. A number of people I have spoken with have done both the mat and cable systems and prefer the cable systems. Check out the cables from Maxxon too. I heard about them too late.
Doing floor heat is expensive and lots of work, but is definately worth it. When your feet are warm, your whole body feels warm. Go for it.
http://www.radiantdesigninstitute.com/page2.html
http://www.wattsradiant.com/heatweave.html
when I was doing some research came across these.
Google on electric radiant comes up with a number of hits.
never have done it.
bobl Volo Non Voleo Joe's BT Forum cheat sheet
Shoeman,
I have both the cable and the mat versions installed in my home and love them both. Over the subfloor you have to work with, the cable version would be easy to deal with and cheaper. I would recommend use of a poured self leveling floor compound over the cables unless your are very good with a trowel.
Aside from installation, the differences between the systems are mainly in the thermostats. The cable version I have is made by Infloor (Maxxon). The thermostat is on-off, works by room air temperature and has an internal, adjustable maximum floor temperature setting. This one works great in my master bath, because at night, my furnace is on night setback. When the air cools down, the floor heat comes on. The heated floor area is about 6x10 and the floor heat output is about 800w. The mat versions I have are made by NuHeat. The thermostats for these work on floor temperature alone, but are programable.
Both work with a 15A, 120V dedicated circuit (the manufacturer recommends a 20A, though not necessary), the NuHeat controller has GFCI protection built-in. Both come with very simple, easy to follow instructions and both are well within the capability of the average DIY, if the can run a circuit for it.
Thanks to all who have responded. Thinking about going with the cable system over the subfloor. Anyone give sources for a good floor leveling compound to put over cables. Will I be ok putting cables right on subfloor? was origianally planning on puting down hardibacker first would like to do without to keep the finished floor height down, but will the self leveling compound be sufficiant?
I put Warm Tiles in our bath in Little Rock and we both loved it. I laid backer board over the flooring for extra stiffness and to help keep the heat going into the room, not the crawl space. The set back timer was well worth the cost, plus I seem to recall they really don't recomment using the Warm Tiles on a continuous basis. The timer again was loved because we really set the house heat down for the night and the warm tiles were most welcome. Besides, I'm a TAC and don't want to wast money heating the floor when I'm not using it,
Putting the cables directly on the plywood subfloor is acceptable. Floor leveling compounds suitable for a heated floor and the 1/2" - 3/4" thickness that you will probably pour are made by Maxxon, trade name of Thermafloor, I believe. Any self-leveling compound will work, so long as it is intended to be used at the thickness of the pour you will use. I used thinset mortar, made by TEC, modified with latex, trowelled in place (with a few "imperfections").